For Spring 2015, designer Max Azria turned to Asia to inspire Hervé Léger’s newest collection….basically guaranteeing that the show would be a huge, luxurious hit. How could it not be fabulous with such a rich and diverse muse stimulating the designer’s creative juices?
From the very beginning Hervé Léger’s S/s 2015 showing was dazzling. It opened with the most drastic looks: gracefully draped kimono dresses, with wide structured sleeves and modest necklines. Gorgeously patterned in bright trailing Oriental motifs, these dresses skimmed over the models bodies, tapering at the waist, before flaring gracefully to just above the knee. Sturdy black leather belts acted as a modern obi, cinching in waists to create that much-coveted figure-eight silhouette.
It was gorgeous, and a surprisingly chaste change for the brand that perfected the oh-so-sexy bodycon dress!
The structured look was gradually deconstructed; hemlines became sleeker, ruffles appeared at the end of skirts, sleeves and bodices became more fitted and gradually the necklines came down. The gorgeous prints were kept up throughout the show, though were gradually infiltrated by intricate woven pattens in neons and metallics, and cool origami-inspired geometric patterns in black, white and nude. Studs and beading added extra shimmer as the designer amped up the runway heat.
You may be wondering, “this is Hervé Léger… where are the body-con dresses?!” Well it finally appeared about midway through the show- in surprisingly modern updates. Livened up with metallic accents, unexpected cutouts and bright colours, the bondage-inspired dress seemed more pretty than sexy; updated versions featured a variety of sleeves and sweetheart necklines, scoop necks and some were even split into bandeau tops and pencil skirts. There are even bikinis (which I love btw)!
Separates were also spotted in this collection, with jackets, hot pants and skirts sauntering down the runway. I’m particularly impressed by these, especially the cool distressed motorcycle jacket and vest made of strips of studded leather.
Other favorites include versions of the bandage dress in bright orange and neon-woven nude, the white and silver-woven skirt and sleeveless vest, the black cutout bikini and the bandeau top and pencil skirt in woven coral and metallic copper.
In the end, the collection is what you’d expect from Hervé Léger; it’s sexy, body-conscious, and very, very chic. I like the designer’s use of prints and I love the woven pieces. I also appreciate the designer’s commitment to interpreting his inspiration respectfully, it’s a theme that can be very easily overworked, and had Mr. Azria not designed with such control, a kitchy, overdone collection could easily have been the result.
As it is, the collection is beautiful- the right amount of sexy modernism bridged with the perfect degree of traditional elements. It’s true to form and stays within the brand’s aesthetic whilst reinventing itself to keep current with the changing trends of the modern world.
Job well and fAB-ulously done!