With his latest showing, Jason Wu has provided fans of his brand with a remarkably polished, albeit restrained, Spring collection.
I say restrained because there’s something very controlled about the range of looks seen at the show. Gone are the sweet shapes and distinctly pretty offerings showcased in collections past- this season marks the maturity of Jason Wu’s aesthetic; very elegant, very streamlined- in short, very grown up.
The showing is remarkably utilitarian, with looks that can be worn straight off the runway and be entirely real-world appropriate. It’s also chock-full of transitional pieces- depending on how you style your look, the clothing can move seamlessly from daytime into evening and are appropriate for both casual and business settings.
Colour-wise, Mr. Wu’s palate is very spare: subdued shades of army green, navy blue, black, white and cream being predominant. On the whole it’s a dark collection, but there are occasional hints of beige, chocolate brown and dark orange that enliven and breathe life into the clothing.
In keeping with the practicality of the theme, the only pattern to be seen is an abstract brushstroke motif in green, beige and white (with a version sporting deep blue swirls), that closely resembles Army camouflage. Appearing on skirts, blouses, shorts, shirts, jackets and even cocktail dresses, this motif gives the collection a decidedly rugged feel. This impression is further enhanced by the inclusion of hardy-looking outerwear pieces in suede and heavy cotton, while suits closely resemble the Air Force’s flying suits.
Silhouettes are very reserved with simple, baggy shapes being predominant. Most pieces are worn long and loosely-tailored, giving the whole collection a very relaxed, but mature impression. Everything looks slightly disheveled, bringing to mind the image of what a moody, chic young professional’s wardrobe might look like.
Like I said, there are a lot of options that are perfect for business settings, particularly in Mr. Wu’s wide range of separates (I think his simple white silk blouses to be some of the chicest items in his repertoire). Worn tunic style, with scarf necklines and ruffled fronts, or button-down with little cap sleeves, these blouses are paired perfectly with slim pencil skirts and slouchy silk trousers. His chic sheaf dresses and silk shirt dresses cut to cocktail-length that are just perfection!
It’s all a little artsy and grungy with a lot of chic rock and roll references being seen throughout the collection. There’s a little leather, sheer fabrics are left unlined, Tee-shirt cuts are glimpsed here and there, glimmer-y beading and tube sequins decorate some of the true evening dresses… and then there are the gowns.
Long, flowing, backless and cut to the navel, these show-stopping numbers leave very little to the imagination. I love these- particularly the orange- and I think these pieces show Mr. Wu’s mastery to the best effect. They’re very sexy, but not too sexy. What a talent Jason Wu is!
Its hard to find fault in Mr. Wu’s designs- they’re all very much in keeping with his sporty but refined aesthetic, but I do find this collection to be lacking some of the wit that has infused the designer’s previous offerings. It’s very reserved in comparison to previous seasons, and it’s remarkably muted for a spring collection in terms of colours, shapes, textures and patterns. It actually looks a bit like a Fall offering. This isn’t really a criticism, but I do like to see some flirty colour on the runway for a spring show.
All in all, it was a good show, although I feel a little bit starved for colour. That said, I love the looks. I’m particularly attracted to his separates; the white silk ruffled blouse, the navy button-down suede top, the shimmery silver tunic, the navy blue satin trousers, the white silk trousers and the loose army-green suit. Other favorites are the silk shirt-dress in chocolate brown silk and the long white sheaf dress. I would wear these throughout the year.
It’s a very consistent collection, and very much like Mr. Wu’s previous collections, it’s extremely relatable in the real world. I quite like it, and think that it will be a hit come 2015. Street style bloggers- keep your eyes opened for some of these pieces popping up on fashionable sidewalks!
I can say that my sister has also already picked out A LOT of pieces for her spring work wardrobe, hopefully we don’t end up looking like twins in 2015.