Oscar de la Renta is a master of colour, textures and patterns. He’s not afraid to pair wildly different patterns or contrasting colours together in one pattern, nor is he afraid of playing with shapes. He clothes have always been architecturally eye-catching, vividly pigmented and utterly gorgeous, so it’s not surprising that his Spring 2015 collection is incredible!
Yet another refreshing show to take place this season, the Oscar de la Renta SS2015 showing was very feminine, with flirty dresses and princess gowns being big features on the runway. While the collection featured a lot of separates, but as is always the case, Señor de la Renta’s signature evening wear stole the show.
The show started simply enough, with elegantly casual day looks, but quickly progressed into dressier items. Think vintage garden-party clothes, with flirty tea-length dresses, structured jackets and pencil skirts being the feature looks. The classical look continued into the evening wear section, which premiered an array of gorgeously structural gowns and elegant column dresses.
It was a very sixties show (my mother has confirmed this), with gamine silhouettes, psychedelic colours and gorgeous embellishments. There was a lot of flower-power, with bright florals taking centre stage in many designs. Appearing as 3- dimensional embellishment in the form of embroidery, lace appliqué and beading, the flowers had much more impact than they would have normally had as a fabric pattern- they practically popped right of the clothes!
Oddly enough, the major fabric pattern to be seen was large vintage-print Buffalo checks in bright pastels and contrasting black-and white. It’s a plain motif, but when used as a base print on linen, heavy silk and organza, and paired with the more elaborate embellishments, it was stunning! Pencil skirts, tunic blouses, crop tops, and jackets presented polished templates for this casual retro print and looks featuring these pieces were surprisingly streamlined and modern.
Lace was another big feature to be seen- especially in the day wear section, with entire blouses and dresses being made out of eyelet lace. Skirts and jackets were bordered with large cut-away lace panels, while some evening jackets and dresses were made of layers of the traditional embroidered net.
Feathers, sequins and glimmering beads were a big part of the evening looks- and they were fabulous! As I said above, this is the part of the collection that showed Señor de la Renta’s strongest work. Think the best of sixties glamour: halter-necked shifts, floor-skimming skirts and gorgeous princess gowns. Most looks were cinched at the natural waist, giving an elegant feminine shape to the structured garments, while the long sheafs enticingly skimmed the body in flattering ways.
Tulip skirts were a big feature, with structural- almost architectural- planes of fabric ballooning out from bodices to skim the knees or the tops of the calves, and unfurling from the below knee to sweep elegantly across the floor. It’s gorgeous and bright but not to much. By keeping the shapes simple and the adornment relatively plain, Señor de la Renta managed to produce ballgowns that do not look to fussy. Additionally, the eye-catching shades of muted neon colours kept these gowns fresh and unique.
I’ve been talking a lot about this collection’s vintage vibe, but it’s anything but old-fashioned: peplums and crop-tops -even in evening wear- kept the collection current, while the lightly- lined lace looks were fresh and subtly sexy. The huge balloon skirts looked easy to wear, with the higher lengths kept above the knee or at the chic tea length, and the longer confections having bias-cut skirts. A particularly interesting piece is a deconstructed orange and yellow gown with a balloon bodice, which features a long A-lined plane of fabric that stretches from the neckline to hip-length before flaring out and to the side in a long bell train over a floor-length circle skirt.
My favourite pieces from this collection are the pale blue halterneck sheaf and the feathered gold two-piece evening look (I’m sure I’ll end up wearing the bandeau top with some tailored trousers and a sharp tuxedo jacket rather than with the skirt). Other favorites include the white jacket with the embroidered flowering vine motif, the floor length white lace dress, the checked skirt with the organza overlay, the black lace pencil skirt and the long blue- checked jacket.
It’s a gorgeous collection that’s full of the classically elegant, romantic clothes that Señor de la Renta is known for. These looks can never go out of style, and they’re the type of clothes that women really want to wear- they’re beautiful and they make you feel beautiful wearing them.
What a fabulous show! – Ana