Burberry Prorsom is always one of the highlights of London Fashion Week, they consistently produce fabulous collections! This year’s offering was no exception, with a gorgeous range of colourful street-style ready looks being seen throughout the show.
Spring’s collection is themed The Birds and the Bees, but it was much less innocent than it’s virtuous name suggests- many fabrics were light, sheer, and completely transparent, some necklines plunged to the waist in a deep Vee while silhouettes were kept curvy and sumptuous.
There’s no way that this collection was designed with a complete ingénue in mind, but designer Christopher Bailey tried his best to tie in the sexy offerings to his theme with youthful details. Colours were kept bright and candy sweet- there were bows and big sequins with an excess of Lolita-esque flounces and ruffles to be seen. Fresh additions like denim jackets, bright prints, bow-detailed mini-bags, sporty trainers and flat sandals tied in and modernized the whole offering.
The entire show had a very urban vibe with graffiti- inspired prints, cool ombré dye effects, pop-art coloured accessories and outerwear being frequently seen. It all puts me in mind of what you’d expect to see a cosmopolitan street-style savvy princess wear during the day. It’s very free, and I think that’s how Mr. Bailey intended this collection to be; it’s his idealized vision of an haute English summertime.
I’ll admit that I found this collection a bit perplexing. I found the mixture of all these separate elements to be a little too much for my taste, and in many cases their combinations produced some odd looks. Some of the silhouettes were a little strange… and while I have no problem with sheer tops, the excess of transparent bodices was a bit much. I also find the lack of separates shown to be concerning; most of the looks were dresses with only a few skirts and blouses shown, and as someone who likes having the ability to mix-and-match different pieces, I find this collection to be lacking. A good pair of trousers would not have gone amiss, nor would have a pair of shorts or two.
One thing this collection did not lack was outerwear (it is Burberry), and the newest versions of the brand’s iconic trench coats were gorgeous! Mr. Bailey’s linen offerings were hand-screened in the shapes and colors of beautiful old book covers and they’re truly stunning (there’s even a beautiful version in lilac wool shearling!). Worn by themselves or over dresses and belted at the waist with large filmy bows, they made for an impactful finale. Elsewhere there were colourful little cropped jackets, leather-edged shearling and denim and fitted jeans jackets lined with lush wooly edges.
All-in-all it’s a good collection- albeit a limited one, and I think that Mr. Bailey’s vision of youthful freedom got a bit lost in translation. My biggest problem is the lack of separates seen, but looking over the show again has yielded more compliments than criticisms from me.
I love the colours! They’re rich and vibrant and I love the ombré combinations of pastels with deep jewel tones. While I have said above that I found the transparent bodices a little overused in this collection, had some of them been lined in flesh-toned fabric I would have loved this effect. As it is, it’s a little too much for my taste (and I’m no prude), but in some cases the sheer tops were beautifully done. Additionally, the flounced skirts were gorgeously constructed and the ripply, sheer net ruffles were perfectly done in each look.
My favorite pieces are the sheer berry- pink drop-waist dress, the V-necked plum button-down dress, the pink shearling crop jacket, the pink and lilac dress with the ruffled skirt, the turquoise trench and the emerald green denim jacket. I also kind of love every bag shown, so I really can’t pick a favourite out of those.
As it stands I think this collection will be very well received by street- style bloggers, as it was made to be worn out in the city. Nothing shown was too dressy for day wear and almost everything can be dressed up or down to fit the occasion. Additionally, basically every piece in this collection photographs well, so that’s a big plus for those in the habit of snapping their daily outfits.
Good job Burberry!