Marco de Vincenzo
Marco de Vincenzo
Le Paris de Chanel- Chapitre 12
“Immerse yourself in the street where it all began, la rue Cambon. Leave the black and white sobriety of the Haute Couture salon and enter the baroque world of Mademoiselle’s apartment. Then, indulge at the Ritz, before opening the door of 18, Place Vendôme to discover the world of Fine Jewelry. Finally, gaze upon the monumental theater of the CHANEL fashion shows: the Grand Palais.
From Gabrielle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, in Chapter 12 of Inside CHANEL, discover these legendary locations and how the CHANEL story continues to be written.”
Just in time to get you excited for Paris Fashion Week!
To me, Tom Ford’s runway presentations are among the most eagerly anticipated events of Fashion Week! This year’s showing was no less thrilling! For Spring 2015 Mr. Ford (love you boo) went high-fashion punk, and as always he did it in spectacular style; mythologicaly- proportioned girls clad in sky-scraping platforms took the runway to the narcotized strains of Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love.” Hair was big and teased, makeup was nightclub-ready smokey and clothes were sexy, plunging and skin-tight. I DIED.
It was something almost otherworldly.
Think high-waisted fit-and-flare pantsuits, bondage dresses that fit like a second skin, mini tunics with plunging necklines, thigh-high stockings, fitted jackets, mesh tops and short mod coats all perched atop those cloud grazing platform clogs. Towards the end there was a series of knockout hip-slung sheer black gowns decorated with sequinned harnesses or satin bra cups with only a thin strip of fabric to cover the breasts. There were pasties too, and proper pasties at that- little metallic floral ones that peeked out from under the mesh bodices like a scattering of chiffon appliqué petals.
The image of Debbie Harry may come to mind, but there were hints of Hedi Slimane’s gritty Sixties Mod vibe to be seen throughout. However, with Mr. Ford drawing inspiration from his collection of vintage Carlo Molino photographs and from some of his own work for Gucci from the late 90’s, its HE who owns this look. He even managed to fit in a nod to pop-culture queens Rihanna, Nicki Minaj and Miley Cyrus with those pastie-topped gowns. A little irreverent perhaps, but utterly fabulous.
Now I love this show. I do find it a little dark for a Spring collection, and normally I’d say something about the lack of colour, but this is one case in which I have no problem with the sparse palette. Dark tones were key in this collection with charcoal grey, bronze, and deep green all making appearances. A little stark white was seen, as well as metallic silver and burnished gold, but the main emphasis was placed on black. Rendered in net, silk, buttery leather and glimmering sequins, coated in iridescent finishes or left matte, black took on a whole new dimension in terms of texture and shade. Who knew that such a basic colour (or should I say anti- colour?) could be so vivid? TOM FORD DID!
It was quite hard for me to pick favourites from this collection since I was enchanted by basically everything shown, but I’ve narrowed my picks down to the barest minimum (or this post would take up the whole blog). I adore the white and gold versions of the cut-out minidress, the dark bronze sequinned boat neck blouse, the black tuxedo suit, the black foil-printed flare-leg trousers, the quilted leather jacket and the sheer crystallized evening gown with the black bondage-strip leggings. Gorgeous.
And I love the clogs- I’m a huge fan of giant platforms, so I’m planning to get every single pair of heels shown on the Tom Ford runway- even the cheetah-print booties.
I love it, and I’m sure that I’m not the only girl swooning over Tom Ford’s Spring show. It hits every target- it’s super sexy, utterly chic and completely daring. I’ll admit that I wonder how the more conservative consumers will take to the transparent blouses and the pastie- topped evening gowns, but ignoring these pieces still leaves buyers with a lot of choice. There’s definite of room for mixing and matching even without these barely-there pieces, and it’s easy to substitute these tops with some of the more modest offerings from within the collection itself.
I’m sure that everyone has gone through a punk phase in their teen years. Tom Ford S/s 2015 has taken me back to that time in my not-so-distant youth when I fell hard for raccoon eye makeup, black tulle and net gloves. Looking at this show I really wish that the Tom Ford S/s 2015 collection had taken place during that time- I’d have been converted to high-fashion at a much younger age!
Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to go put on some heavy eyeliner and tease my hair. Tom Ford has left me addicted to haute punk.
Burberry Prorsom is always one of the highlights of London Fashion Week, they consistently produce fabulous collections! This year’s offering was no exception, with a gorgeous range of colourful street-style ready looks being seen throughout the show.
Spring’s collection is themed The Birds and the Bees, but it was much less innocent than it’s virtuous name suggests- many fabrics were light, sheer, and completely transparent, some necklines plunged to the waist in a deep Vee while silhouettes were kept curvy and sumptuous.
There’s no way that this collection was designed with a complete ingénue in mind, but designer Christopher Bailey tried his best to tie in the sexy offerings to his theme with youthful details. Colours were kept bright and candy sweet- there were bows and big sequins with an excess of Lolita-esque flounces and ruffles to be seen. Fresh additions like denim jackets, bright prints, bow-detailed mini-bags, sporty trainers and flat sandals tied in and modernized the whole offering.
The entire show had a very urban vibe with graffiti- inspired prints, cool ombré dye effects, pop-art coloured accessories and outerwear being frequently seen. It all puts me in mind of what you’d expect to see a cosmopolitan street-style savvy princess wear during the day. It’s very free, and I think that’s how Mr. Bailey intended this collection to be; it’s his idealized vision of an haute English summertime.
I’ll admit that I found this collection a bit perplexing. I found the mixture of all these separate elements to be a little too much for my taste, and in many cases their combinations produced some odd looks. Some of the silhouettes were a little strange… and while I have no problem with sheer tops, the excess of transparent bodices was a bit much. I also find the lack of separates shown to be concerning; most of the looks were dresses with only a few skirts and blouses shown, and as someone who likes having the ability to mix-and-match different pieces, I find this collection to be lacking. A good pair of trousers would not have gone amiss, nor would have a pair of shorts or two.
One thing this collection did not lack was outerwear (it is Burberry), and the newest versions of the brand’s iconic trench coats were gorgeous! Mr. Bailey’s linen offerings were hand-screened in the shapes and colors of beautiful old book covers and they’re truly stunning (there’s even a beautiful version in lilac wool shearling!). Worn by themselves or over dresses and belted at the waist with large filmy bows, they made for an impactful finale. Elsewhere there were colourful little cropped jackets, leather-edged shearling and denim and fitted jeans jackets lined with lush wooly edges.
All-in-all it’s a good collection- albeit a limited one, and I think that Mr. Bailey’s vision of youthful freedom got a bit lost in translation. My biggest problem is the lack of separates seen, but looking over the show again has yielded more compliments than criticisms from me.
I love the colours! They’re rich and vibrant and I love the ombré combinations of pastels with deep jewel tones. While I have said above that I found the transparent bodices a little overused in this collection, had some of them been lined in flesh-toned fabric I would have loved this effect. As it is, it’s a little too much for my taste (and I’m no prude), but in some cases the sheer tops were beautifully done. Additionally, the flounced skirts were gorgeously constructed and the ripply, sheer net ruffles were perfectly done in each look.
My favorite pieces are the sheer berry- pink drop-waist dress, the V-necked plum button-down dress, the pink shearling crop jacket, the pink and lilac dress with the ruffled skirt, the turquoise trench and the emerald green denim jacket. I also kind of love every bag shown, so I really can’t pick a favourite out of those.
As it stands I think this collection will be very well received by street- style bloggers, as it was made to be worn out in the city. Nothing shown was too dressy for day wear and almost everything can be dressed up or down to fit the occasion. Additionally, basically every piece in this collection photographs well, so that’s a big plus for those in the habit of snapping their daily outfits.
Good job Burberry!
Emilio de la Morena
See by Chloé
There’s something special about putting on a good suit… it almost forces you to present the best version of yourself to the public. You stand taller, you walk with a little more swagger- in your mind, you rule your world and damn, you look good doing it.
Now, although looking good in formal wear is pretty easy to pull off, formal wear is a little like a uniform and there are rules that must be followed to achieve a polished look. Get things wrong, and you’re stuck looking like the slob of the party. Luckily, the release of the Gucci f/w 2014 men’s tailoring lookbook shows us all how to get things right. Base your look on these, and you’ll be proud to show off your dapper pictures for years to come.
Undoubtedly, the most important consideration when choosing a suit/ tuxedo/ formal coat, is its fit. Go too big (baggy) or too small (tight and/ or short), and you’ve destroyed your look. If you’re buying off the rack, find yourself a good tailor who will alter your clothes so that they properly fit YOU. Look at the fit of the amazing clothing seen throughout this post. Shoulders, sleeves and pant legs aren’t too long or short. Trousers and jackets aren’t so tight that they restrict movement or crease unusually, but fit so that the model looks neat while achieving the much coveted broad-shouldered-while-slim silhouette. True, this is a professional model we’re talking about- but believe me, properly tailored formal wear will enhance any man’s appearance- regardless of whether you’re bigger or smaller than Clément.
Always choose pieces made of good quality materials like fine wool or cashmere, and make sure that the colors and patterns you choose are occasion appropriate. Business attire should always be somber, while for parties, I use the invitation dress code as a guide – black tie means dark suits and tuxes, white tie means black trousers with a crisp white jacket. Less formal occasions like beach weddings or informal parties give you the freedom to wear unusual colors and patterns (I have some great suits in jewel tone blue, green and red), but remember to keep the fabric quality high. Look at the sheen of the fabric of the suits below- from this alone, its pretty obvious they’re made of the finest materials.
With a well fitted white shirt that’s of good quality (not see through) or a dark sweater like in the image below, nice lace-up shoes in patent or leather and a great coat or jacket if you’re going to be in colder weather, you’re basically set. Any accessories should generally me minimalist and classic; a simple pocket square, classic cufflinks in silver or white gold, a tie pin or bar and a great watch would all work.
The Gucci men’s tailoring f/w/ 2014 lookbook is great for the garments it showcases and its well executed images, but also as a base for guys to learn how to dress. Looking smart isn’t that hard to do and with this lookbook as a base, you’re on your way to being the Einstein of the fashion crowd. Go forth with style gents!
Micheal van der Ham
Mother of Pearl
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Pringle of Scotland