Judging from the excess of suede fringe, kerchief dresses and bell-bottomed trousers that we’ve been seeing, it’s safe to say that the 70s came back in a big way at Milan’s s/s 2015 Fashion Week- and no where was it done better than at Emilio Pucci.
Pucci has a legitimate claim to this territory, as the late sixties and seventies was when this colorful house exploded onto the international fashion radar with their mod prints and fierce Italian style aesthetic. Judging from this show, house designer Peter Dundas proved to all of Milan that he truly is the master of revamped seventies when he debuted Pucci’s breezy, colourful collection for Spring 2015.
Vintage is the look for Spring at Pucci, with bright seventies colour and embellishments along with the house’s signature prints. Think fringe and hippie beading, studs and swirling embroidery, paisley and abstract florals…mustard yellow (I know. Even I had initial doubts about that colour, but its grown on me). Yes, the seventies are definitely back, but with a touch of 90’s edge and new millennium strut.
This offering screams seventies- but only the jet-setting seventies. Think yachting around the sun-kissed Mediterranean shores, all night dancing under the neon lights of top tier clubs and mornings spent sunbathing. It’s Bellinis at Harry’s Bar with Talitha Getty… beautiful people, the beach and rock and roll. The collection is a definite nod to the best of a legendary time and as an overall showing, its everything.
Its vintage, but it’s a modern vintage, with Mr. Dundas interpreting his vision of seventies luxury rather than rehashing pieces that have been done before.
Let’s start at the end of the show, where the designer chose to blend iconic Pucci prints with tie-dye patterns and psychedelic pop-art motifs on silk chiffon. Its a combination that made for some killer maxi dresses crafted with bold jeweled halter necklines, simple strappy racer-backs or stitched the silk onto beaded bra tops while leaving the rest of the FABric to sweep across the floor in large trapeze planes. Transparent chiffon grazes over beaded swimwear, while clouds of printed silk gauze and cotton voile are appliquéd with swirls of embroidery and feather-light beading. It’s the stuff of dreams, and this is the part of the showing where Mr. Dundas went in for the fabulous kill.
Bohemian chic daywear was also well done, with the ultra slim pants and fitted flower-embellished jackets being particularly stunning. Also stunning were washed cotton silk voile peasant blouses, fringed dresses, skinny flared trousers in canvas-weight linen, suede jackets and beaded macramé dresses in silk guipure. Gorgeous! There were sportier looks too, with crisp sheaf dresses and slim jumpsuits with huge button-detailed straps being seen!
Simply put, it’s a fabulous show, and I can see women everywhere going wild over this collection (I’m counting the days until it’s available online). Can’t you just imagine how much more beautiful toned, tanned skin and sun bleached hair will be made by his colorful Boho ensembles?
Darlings, it so chic its fierce!