Elie Saab’s Spring 2015 collection is named Dive Into the Deep Blue, and as that name suggests it’s full of stunning looks in gorgeous shades of deep ocean blue and the vivid colours of coral reefs.
The fauna and flora of the Italian sea was the main inspiration behind this collection- so it’s no surprise that the runway was full of fabulous marine accented looks. There were rippling gowns that undulated like deep sea waves, soft fabrics, heavy embellishments that resembled barnacles, lace inserts likened gills and sharp slits across the torso like gills.
Like many designers this season Mr. Saab focused on the 1970s for inspiration (who wouldn’t be inspired by that time?) and premiered an offering that’s full of the glamorous and sophisticated looks associated with the high style period. However the vintage vibe was kept somewhat modern with with pared down silhouettes and sporty references that were seen throughout. Lines were kept clean and simple, the tailoring was razor-sharp and very sexy, ornamentation was minimal and the bodices of many of the dresses and gowns resembled vintage swimsuits.
Colours were exceptionally calming with a main palette of deep blue, white, black and teal, but there were also refreshing shades of bright coral, orange and yellow added here and there. This is the first collection that Mr. Saab has worked so extensively with graphic prints and this season’s swirled abstract motif is definitely impressive. Left as is, or bordered by graphic bands of black and white, a fabulous selection of print dresses resembling patterned scarves started the show .
From there the show progressed into elegant day wear options like structured mini dresses, sharp pantsuits, slouchy trousers and mini shorts, embellished blouses, sharply- tailored blazers, maxi dresses and lace-paneled blouses and trousers. These pieces are not casual in any sense of the word, but for this designer, who excels in delivering glamorous red-carpet worthy evening wear, it’s quite relaxed. Although not really appropriate for running errands and such- and apart from being haute work wear, they’re perfect for most daytime events like casual luncheons, garden parties, regattas and even less formal weddings.
Fabulous as these daytime separates were, Mr. Saab’s best work was seen (as usual) in his selection of evening looks. Rather than relying solely on his signature ornamentation, the designer employed contrasting fabric textures and colour effects as his major embellishment details for Spring 2015; thus the evening wear potion of the show was kicked off by a series of bright gradient- coloured goddess gowns. From there the looks became progressively more glamourous: embellished lace pantsuits, sequined mini dresses, sheaf dresses with rippling trains and lushly- ornamented mermaid gowns. Fab.
The marine influence was shown strongest in this section of the show, with the heavier embellishments deeply referencing underwater imagery- the ombré effect on the first gowns conveyed the thought of the fabric being dipped in water. Heavy fabrics bisected by frothy lace panels evoked the idea of seafoam on waves, gradient panels of lace and net likened seaweed and marine plants, beaded appliqués on sheer fabric looked like rippling water, billowing silk scarves and chiffon sleeves moved like gentle sea breezes and glistening sequined surfaces resembled the skin of some almost mythical translucent underwater creature.
Let’s just say that this entire segment of the show was utterly fabulous.
Elie Saab Spring 2015 was a wonderful show from start to finish. The event itself was imbued with the calming ebb and flow of the ocean, and every aspect- from the production effects to model casting and runway styling was spot on in conveying the relaxed mood of the collection. Then there were the clothes (just gorgeous!). This season sparked a new look for Mr. Saab: a less formal, though equally glamorous one. Although I am completely enamored with his traditionally glamorous offerings, I find this new pared- back aesthetic very refreshing.
The Elie Saab S/s 2015 collection’s relaxing inspiration has resulted in a collection of fabulous garments that can be worn to almost any event from day to evening. There’s plenty of room to mix and match and there are complete ensembles that can comfortably be worn straight off the runway. It’s a great development for a brand that had been struggling to make it’s prêt-à-porter line become more widely known. I can’t wait to see more!
Elie Saab Spring 2015 is nautical daywear at it’s best!