Ana’s Picks: Best Looks of Milan FW Day 3

Agnona

Agnona F/w 2015. Image WWD

Agnona F/w 2015. Image WWD

Agnona F/w 2015. Image WWD

Agnona F/w 2015. Image WWD

Etro

Etro F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Etro F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Etro F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Etro F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Etro F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Giamba

Giamba F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Giamba F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Giamba F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Giamba F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Kiton

Kiton F/w 2015. Image WWD

Kiton F/w 2015. Image WWD

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Philosophy di Loernzo Serafini F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Philosophy di Loernzo Serafini F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Philosophy di Loernzo Serafini F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Sportmax

Sportmax F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Sportmax F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Sportmax F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Versace

Versace F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Versace F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Versace F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Iceberg

Iceberg F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Iceberg F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Iceberg F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Iceberg F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Aigner

Aigner F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Aigner F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Aigner F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Aigner F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Aigner F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Daniel Silverstain

Daniel Silverstain F/w 2015. Image WWD

Kristina Ti

Kristina Ti F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Kristina Ti F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Emporio Armani F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Emporio Armani F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Uma Wang

Uma Wang F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Marco de Vincenzo

Marco de Vincenzi F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Marco de Vincenzi F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Marco de Vincenzi F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Marco de Vincenzi F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Blumarine

Blumarine F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Blumarine F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Blumarine F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Blumarine F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Blumarine F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Woolrich

Woolrich F/w 2015. Image WWD

FRS

FRS F/w 2015. Image WWD

FRS F/w 2015. Image WWD

Steve Alan

Steve Alan F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Angelo Mariani

Angelo Mariani F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Friday Fierceness!

Primavera Mix- Elle España March 2015

Blouse and skirt: Zuhair Murad Ready to Wear. Image ELLE ESPAÑA/XAVI GORDO

Model: Eugenia Volodina
Photographer: Xavi Gordo
Stylist: Inmaculada Jiménez
Hair & Makeup: Vicky Marcos

Ana’s Picks: Best Looks of Milan FW Day 2

Prada

Prada F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Prada F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Moschino

Moschino F/w 2015. Image INDIGITLIMAGES

Moschino F/w 2015. Image INDIGITLIMAGES

Moschino F/w 2015. Image INDIGITLIMAGES

Blugirl

Blugirl F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Blugirl F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Just Cavalli

Just Cavalli F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Just Cavalli F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Just Cavalli F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Just Cavalli F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

La Perla

La Perla F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

La Perla F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

La Perla F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Andrea Incontri

Andrea Incontri F/w 2015. Image WWD

Max Mara

Max Mara F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Max Mara F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Anteprima

Anteprima F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Anteprima F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Capucci

Capucci F/w 2015. Image CAPUCCI

Capucci F/w 2015. Image CAPUCCI

Capucci F/w 2015. Image CAPUCCI

Patrizia Pepe

Patrizia Pepe F/w 2015. Image WWD

Patrizia Pepe F/w 2015. Image WWD

Patrizia Pepe F/w 2015. Image WWD

Patrizia Pepe F/w 2015. Image WWD

Hogan

Hogan F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Costume National

Costume National F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Costume National F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Costume National F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Hache

Hache F/w 2015. Image WWD

Fabina Filipi

Fabina Fillipi F/w 2015. Image WWD

Fabina Fillipi F/w 2015. Image WWD

Byblos Milano

Byblos Milano F/w 215. Image NOWFASHION

Byblos Milano F/w 215. Image NOWFASHION

Daniela Gregis

Daniela Gregis F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Daniela Gregis F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Daniela Gregis F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Marcelo Burlon County of Milan F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Peuterey Aiguille Noire

Peuterey Aiguille Noire F/w 2015. Image WWD

Christiano Burani

Christiano Burani F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Christiano Burani F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Ana’s Picks: Best Looks of Milan FW Day 1

Dondup

Dondup F/w 2015. Image DONDUP

Dondup F/w 2015. Image DONDUP

Dondup F/w 2015. Image DONDUP

Simonetta Ravizza

Simonetta Ravizza F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Simonetta Ravizza F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Simonetta Ravizza F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Simonetta Ravizza F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Simonetta Ravizza F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Simonetta Ravizza F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Gucci

Gucci F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Gucci F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Gucci F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Chicca Lucaldi

Chicca Lucaldi F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Chicca Lucaldi F/w 2015. Image FASHIONISING

Philipp Plien

Philipp Plien F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Philipp Plien F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Philipp Plien F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Philipp Plien F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Philipp Plien F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Fausto Puglisi

Fausto Puglisi F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Bruno Cucinelli

Bruno Cucinelli F/w 2015. Image WWD

Bruno Cucinelli F/w 2015. Image WWD

Bruno Cucinelli F/w 2015. Image WWD

Alberta Ferreti

Alberta Ferreti F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Alberta Ferreti F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Alberta Ferreti F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Alberta Ferreti F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Fay

Fay F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Fay F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

No. 21

No. 21 F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

No. 21 F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

No. 21 F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

No. 21 F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Genny

Genny F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Genny F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Genny F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Alexander Lewis

Alexander Lewis F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Alexander Lewis F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Francesco Scognamiglio

Francesco Scongnamiglio F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Francesco Scongnamiglio F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Francesco Scongnamiglio F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Luisa Beccaria

Luisa Beccaria F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Stella Jean

Stella Jean F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Stella Jean F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Dennis Basso F/w 2015

Dennis Basso F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Ahh the seventies… what a time for fashion and music! I wonder if some of that era’s taste-setters realized how their influence would be felt through the decades- and now used as inspiration by many of today’s taste makers. Designer Dennis Basso is one of these modern taste makers. Citing the “glamour of the Seventies” as his inspiration for Fall 2015, he really went to town with his theme! The result is a study in over-the-top opulence and proved that boho- glam is again the look and more!

Dennis Basso F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

For Fall, Mr. Basso spun his typically princess furs and ball gowns into something with more ’70s flash, tweaking his collection until he produced something that spoke to the hearts of every single modern day Studio 54 glamazon. “It’s about having a good time,” Mr. Basso said backstage- hence he paired velvet tunics with flared high-waisted trousers, sparkling mini dresses and slinky gold gowns with flamboyant fringed furs and alligator- patterned leather. New accessories were seen with the addition of long, thin silk scarves and gorgeous embossed hobo bags.

Dennis Basso F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Evening looks and fur are still the bread and butter of Mr. Basso’s offerings, but this season his day looks were hard to overlook with their colour- blocked trousers, patterned minidresses, silky blouses and diaphanous dresses showing beneath fuzzy black and grey wool and leather- trimmed fur. My particular favourites from this segment include a pair of banded wool trousers in slate grey and black, a sheer black mini with a netted overly and a sparkly mini sheaf with graphic bands of pink, gold and tan. I’d wear these anywhere in a heartbeat!

Dennis Basso F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

As always, Mr. Basso fully delivered for evening. His muses are flashy uptown ladies, and from his elaborate furs that are meant to be layered over airy dresses to his metallic gowns, he gave his clients what they’re looking for. In Mr. Basso’s eyes more is more… yet oddly enough I think this season’s best work was seen in his subtler evening looks. A pair of simple, body skimming shifts in unadorned silk were effortlessly elegant and were a perfect respite to the sumptuous excess of sequins, beads and metallic brocades seen everywhere else on the runway.

Dennis Basso F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Among all the New York shows, Dennis Basso’s is definitely the place to look for over-the top glamour! Fall 2015 provided brand lovers with their seasonal supply of opulence. How utterly and fully fab! -Ana

Delpozo F/w 2015

Delpozo F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Art has long served as a source of inspiration for designers, and this is always the case for Delpozo designer, Joseph Font, a man whose work- like art- is filled with both drama and richness. Every season, Mr. Font has tried to convey artistic sentiments to consumers, with his efforts having resulted in fantastical prêt-à-couture creations that draw a flood of fashion’s most influential to his seasonal offerings.

Delpozo F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

This season Mr. Font was inspired by the unsettlingly vibrant paintings of Rhys Lee and Andrey Remnev’s modernist take on classic Pre-Raphaelite works. This resulted in a vivid palette of blush, Kelly green, scarlet, palest blue and acid shades of green and yellow with additional colour pops of punchy cobalt, cherry, pink and gold ornamentation. Its certainly an attention grabbing colour scheme, but its Mr. Font’s masterful architectural shapes that truly captivated the crowd.

Delpozo F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

His ability to manipulate gauzy fabrics into bubble sleeves, wool into precise origami peaks, bobbinet into loose knots and velvet into on-spot roll necks is truly masterful. There were some structural minis where flat planes of silk were manipulated into cuboid funnel shapes or smooth circle skirts… and let’s not even talk about his capes! My favourite look was a blue silk mini- suit in which a structural folded jacket was paired with stiffly- peaked triangular sided shorts. Too fab! Think of all the styling opportunities! These, worn over a button- front shirt, a silky blouse or even a long-sleeved tee, and paired with boots or brogues would be a fabulously elegant look for most informal daytime events. Plus, either piece would look just as good if worn separately. THAT, is the mark of good design.

Delpozo F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Yet for all that structure there was still a lot of softness, both in spirit and in form: column gowns and knitted pullovers were surprisingly refreshing inclusions, as were some hyper- coloured patterned coats with cascading sleeves. Velvet, soft wool and knits came forth in a variety of variations, technically shaped for day while simply done in traditional silhouettes for evening. Again there are some fabulous looks at the mini-length that would make for sparkling additions to anyone’s cocktail and clubbing wardrobes (depending on the styling) and there are some gowns that are stunning in their simplicity. Those velvet columns for example, in red, white and green are perfectly done and would steal the scene at any evening event.

Delpozo F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

I know I’d wear any one of those in a heartbeat!

xx -Ana

Ana’s Picks: Best Looks of London FW Day 5

Huishan Zhang

Huishan Zhang F/w 2015. Image WWD

Huishan Zhang F/w 2015. Image WWD

Huishan Zhang F/w 2015. Image WWD

Emilio de la Moreno

Emilio de la Moreno F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Emilio de la Moreno F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Emilio de la Moreno F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Emilio de la Moreno F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Anya Hindmarch

Anya Hindmarch F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Anya Hindmarch F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Margaret Howell

Margaret Howell F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Margaret Howell F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Margaret Howell F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Saloni

Saloni F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Saloni F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Saloni F/w 2015. Image STYLE.COM

Edeline Lee

Edeline Lee F/w 2015. Image WWD

Edeline Lee F/w 2015. Image WWD

Micheal van der Ham

Micheal van der Ham F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Micheal van der Ham F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Joseph

Joseph F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Joseph F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Christopher Reaburn

Christopher Reaburn F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Ryan Lo

Ryan Lo F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Ryan Lo F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Ryan Lo F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Ryan Lo F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Ryan Lo F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Saunder

Sander F/w 2015. Image WWD

McQ Alexander McQueen

McQ Alexander McQueen F/w 2015. Image ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

McQ Alexander McQueen F/w 2015. Image ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Ashley Williams

Ashley Williams F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Ashley Williams F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Ashley Williams F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Haute Couture Week in Review: Too Gorgeous Part 1

Elie Saab Haute Couture

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Elie Saab is one of the most consistent couturiers around, with his shows constantly thrilling fashionistas with his signature elegant fare! From his first season, Mr. Saab has established himself as one of the best couturiers in modern times and when it comes to glamour, no one can top Elie Saab’s glittering confections. This season, the designer dedicated the collection to his past, basing it in his childhood in 1960s Beirut.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image FASHIONISING.COM

Mr. Saab based his looks around the women he saw growing up during the city’s heyday, “the Golden Age,” as he called it. “…Back then, Beirut seemed to be constantly adorned for a party that would never end.” This dash of nostalgia injected his Spring 2015 collection with a certain freshness that previous showings may have lacked. He titled the collection “Beirut, Chasing a Dream,” channeling a bit of the essence of his homeland into all of his elegant looks.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image FASHIONISING.COM

Billowing khaftan- inspired looks added variety to Mr. Saab’s classic fit -and- flare silhouettes and goddess gowns, while bejewelled jumpsuits provided a refreshing break from a stream of dresses. On the whole this was a very relaxed collection and Mr. Saab further pushed the laid- back spirit by including pockets in nearly all the looks (gowns included!) and pairing many of his creations with minimalist accessories like unadorned leather belts and low- heeled sandals.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image FASHIONISING.COM

Mr. Saab rarely uses prints but this season, his mother’s tulip-printed silk dress provided a template for new motifs and adornments. Graphic watercolour florals provided a bold new dimension to his looks- especially when printed on sheer fabrics and paired with large 3- dimensional appliqués. There were also crystal- encrusted overlays in lace and net, while ostrich feathers were used to fabulous effect on several looks.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image FASHIONISING.COM

I’m very impressed with the variety seen in Mr. Saab’s designs and it shows that he’s really trying to make the brand relatable to women of every age and style preference. I love how youthful or playful his collections are becoming in terms of colours and accessorizing! There are several completely styled looks that I would wear straight off the runway!

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image FASHIONISING.COM

This is perhaps one of the most remarkable Couture collections that Elie Saab has produced to date. It’s as feminine and gorgeous as his previous work, but this season’s heavy dose of nostalgia imbued Spring 2015’s offering with a glamorous vintage vibe! Apart from being a lovely tale of the designer’s childhood, it’s a gorgeous ode to a lost period in history, a sense that elevated the collection above and beyond Mr. Saab’s already sky-high standards.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image FASHIONISING.COM

It’s an almost perfectly executed collection and I’m certain that couture lovers worldwide will be fighting over every look seen on the runway. As usual Elie Saab’s Spring 2015 Couture show has left me spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing gorgeous clothes.

Elie Saab Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture

Ralph & Russo Haute Couutre Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

This season, British brand Ralph & Russo was once again included among the precious few international brands invited to present during Paris Couture Week- their runway show being the event that officially closed the Spring 2015 season. Once again, the label proved itself to be more than worthy of the honour by releasing an extraordinary collection that was both breathtakingly beautiful and technically astute.

Ralph & Russo Haute Couutre Spring 2015. Image W MAGAZINE

For Spring 2015 designers, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo focused on the allure of flowers, sprinkling their structural fifties- inspired garments with liberal amounts of crystals, decorative embroidery and articulated floral appliqués. This British couture house has little to prove in terms of finesse and high craft, but the designers surpassed their already high standards and really pushed boundaries in their aesthetic in terms of complexity and technical detailing.

Ralph & Russo Haute Couutre Spring 2015. Image W MAGAZINE

In that respect, the show was extremely progressive with shapes and adornments becoming more opulent with each passing look. One coat dress was extravagantly embroidered with hundreds of flowers connected in intricate patterns, another was detailed with bands of micro ruffles to create cascading layers trimmed with hundreds of tiny ruffles- the bridal gown was so heavily encrusted that the bride required the assistance of four burly attendants to help her turn at the end of the catwalk. 3D flower buds competed with metallic embroidery, pearls and geometric crystals on some gowns, others sported layers of sumptuously embellished lace or net, while on some degradés of pastel organzas were sculpted into floral shapes! True art.

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SONNY VANDEVELDE

The collection definitely effused the type of romance associated with Hollywood’s glamorous ‘Golden Age’, but amongst the gorgeous array of tea frocks, cocktail dresses and evening gowns, the designers managed to inject a sense of modernity into their lineup with the addition of magnificent architectural pieces.

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SONNY VANDEVELDE

I have one criticism. For all it’s beautiful inventiveness, the house’s Spring 2015 offering never fully coalesced into a true collection as there was no real cohesion between the sequenced sets of designs. After a while, the constant stream of overworked silhouettes became somewhat tedious. The collection looked more like a compilation of classic couture shapes rather than an offering for a new season- certainly the runway lineup would have benefited greatly from a much tighter edit that would have allowed the exceptional pieces to really stand out.

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SONNY VANDEVELDE

The Ralph & Russo Spring 2015 collection was undeniably one of the most gorgeous offerings seen on the runway this season, but beyond that, it lacked a certain… something. Overall though, I enjoyed reviewing the show because it was so beautiful. Ralph & Russo is one of the best new couture houses currently operating, but if they want to really become noticed as a major luxury house, the designers still have a little work to do. I have high hopes for them!

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Haute Couture Week in Review: Hard Edge Part 2

Atelier Versace

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITLIMAGES

Donatella Versace is never one to make a half- assed effort! There is no middle ground in her design- when she decides that she wants a collection that’s full of curves, there is not a straight line to be seen anywhere on the runway. Her Spring 2015 focus was on the seductive curves of a woman’s body and she scalloped, twisted and arched until she achieved a collection that celebrated every aspect of our seductive femininity.

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SENATUS MAGAZINE

From the very start Ms. Versace aimed to downplay any distractions from her core subject matter- feminine curves. Therefore, she cut embellishments down to the barest minimum so that all the focus would be on the model’s body. The only ornamentation seen in the entire collection appeared towards the middle of the show, first on a series of emoji- embroidered minidresses and then on two slinky jet-embroidered evening dresses. Lace panels and large net cutouts provided the only other departures from a show that was mostly comprised of looks in unadorned but striking shades of black, white, red, and royal blue. To make up for the collection’s stark edge, Ms. Versace further explored her experiments with new silhouettes: skirts were fuller and slightly longer, while her signature skintight dresses boasted flared trains.

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SONNY VANDEVELDE

To me, this collection had some great pieces, but was a bit of a mess overall. For Spring 2015, Ms. Versace really tried to push the boundaries of her design beyond the house’s expected sex kitten look, but the sad thing is that despite all her efforts, the final collection lacked cohesion and a clear cut message. The clothes were literally all over the place- power suits clashed with tiny minidresses, clingy lace gowns appeared alongside crop tops and dirndl-style skirts… there were sheaf dresses, evening gowns, and towards the end, a series of bodysuits that were more strips of fabric than actual clothes. Even the looks that were more in keeping with her trademark look fell short this season, with those curving cutouts proving to be more of a distraction from the outfit’s taste level than anything else.

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SONNY VANDEVELDE

Some of her best pieces were seen at the show’s start with two versions of smart black tailleurs- but here too the unusual neckline proved to be a negative factor. Other highlights include a slim one- shouldered sheaf in scarlet silk, a bright blue mermaid gown with a sweetheart neckline and a cutout just below the bust, a black bodysuit topped with rubberized lace (worn by Gwen Stefani to the 2015 Grammy Awards) and a black sequinned minidress.

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image SONNY VANDEVELDE

This was not Donatella Versace’s best show and I think that stems from an underdeveloped central design theme. She really needed to fully explore and define her ideas before taking them to the sample stage, and she should have used a firm editing hand on the runway lineup. With some planning and careful consideration on the design front, I think that she’ll be able to overcome this season’s hiccup in future shows. At the end of the day, she’s an industry icon and we can expect great things from her.

Atelier Versace Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture

Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Bouchra Jarrar is a largely unknown couturier outside of fashion circles and has been operating under the radar for the past five years. With the lack of truly show stopping evening dresses in her past shows, its really no surprise that her work isn’t more well known, but does the appearance of four in her Spring 2015 show means that she’s finally ready to step into the limelight? I certainly hope so, but I think it may still be a while before we see her work in more exposed situations, publications or red carpets.

Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image NY MAG/VALERIO MEZZANOTTI

It will take a fashion crazy stylist with a keen eye to spot Ms. Jarrar’s silky bias-cut dresses amongst the tide of glitzy confections seen elsewhere on the couture runways this season. But even with such exquisite competition, her designs linger in the minds of reviewers simply because they were free from excess. Ms. Jarrar has always been a minimalist, and her evening looks retain this appeal even with the addition of a few sequins and feathers.

Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image NY MAG/VALERIO MEZZANOTTI

Still Ms. Jarrar did not deviate too far from her usual design paths. She’s always made chic daywear the centerpiece of her collection and as usual it was her main focus with this showing- but with some developments. Miniskirts were new (Ms. Jarrar has always been a trousers type of girl) and her super- short confections with their diagonal zippers are probably the sexiest things spotted on the runways this season. She also injected a little kink into her lineup with some transparent net T-shirts and a spectacular pair of shiny PVC trousers. Signature brand elements provided stability to what was otherwise a deeply progressive collection: a metallic tweed coat with a generous fur collar looked familiar, as did a leather trench- and as always there were Ms. Jarrar’s custom woven fabrics to be seen throughout.

Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image NY MAG/VALERIO MEZZANOTTI

With Spring 2015, Bouchra Jarrar has proved that she’s ready to make her name known to those outside of the high fashion circles. With this collection I think that there’s a good chance that will soon happen. Too fab!

Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture Spring 2015. image INDIGITALIMAGES

Vikor & Rolf Haute Couture

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Victor & Rolf’s couture collections have always been artistic expressions. I’ve always appreciated their wildly creative sentiments and I was happily surprised to see what they came up with for Spring 2015. The entire collection can be simply summed up into one look: a floral-print baby-doll dress, a pair of flip- flops, and a straw hat. It’s the quintessential country girl look, but as always, the duo took the folksy vibe to a completely different level by literally exploding it!

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. NY MAGAZINE/SARAH AUBEL/W MAGAZINE

The Dutch duo brought Spring 2015 in with an eruption of shapes, colours and forms that started from the very first look- a pleated A-line dress unfurling from one shoulder and propped up by a voluminous petticoat. It bore a twisting pattern of white flowers outlined in black and blue- a motif repeated throughout the collection but with each subsequent look, the colourless flowers were replaced with vivid hues until they materialized into a hallucination of dimension and color. Flower cutouts took on 3-dimensional forms and were lifted straight off the fabric in voluminous clusters, while singular specimens trailed off the actual dresses to float above and behind them like spectral wings. All the while the models sported magnificent headgear- structural hats made of twisted straw took on unbelievable dimensions, growing until they stretched across the width of the runway.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. COUTURE INSIDER/INSTAGRAM

The collection buzzed with an excessive madcap energy, but unlike the whimsical lilts seen elsewhere on the couture runways, Victor & Rolf’s statement struck a more sinister note. The designers steered the mood towards madness more than anything else: the structural shapes of the clothes became more nightmarish with each passing look, the frantic patterns became increasingly more vivid until they resembled shifting hallucinations, colours jarred and became disturbingly bright and all the while those sprawling headpieces became more and more unbelievable. FAB.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image COUTURENOTEBOOK/INSTAGRAM

The designers later cited the work of Vincent van Gogh as a direct inspiration for the show… and it’s easy to see his raw, unsuppressed energy pulsing throughout everything that happened on the runway. Yet, those tragic feelings of anxiety and depression that madness invokes were also felt throughout. Spring 2015’s collection really deserves to be titled “wearable art” more than “couture collection” as I can more see it showcased in an exhibition rather than on a clients. Except maybe Daphne Guinness or Björk Guðmundsdóttir…

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image COUTURENOTEBOOK/INSTAGRAM

Victor & Rolf’s Spring 2015 collection mirrored the progressive journey of an unbalanced mind by showing the degrees by which sanity becomes demolished- that’s no easy undertaking for anyone to approach and this duo managed to do this purely through fabric manipulation! This feat becomes even more stunning when you consider the degrees of sensitivity and realism that the duo was able to achieve and the way that their work ended up being downright spectacular to behold. It’s no surprise then to discover that three pieces from the collection have already been purchased for Rotterdam’s Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen by art collector Han Nefkens.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. Image COUTURE NOTEBOOK/INSTAGRAM/NY MAGAZINE/SARAH AUBEL

Victor & Rolf took my breath away with their Spring 2015 couture collection. I really think that much of this collection deserves to be placed amongst the great works of contemporary fashion and design masters. I can’t wait to see what the duo comes up with next!

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Spring 2015. image INDIGITALIMAGES

Ana’s Picks: Best Looks of London FW Day 4

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Burberry Prorsum F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Burberry Prorsum F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Burberry Prorsum F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Antonio Berardi

Antonio Berardi F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Antonio Berardi F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Antonio Berardi F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Giles

Giles F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Giles F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Giles F/w 2015. Image NOWFASHION

Marios Schwab

Marios Schwab F/w 2015. Image WWD

Marios Schwab F/w 2015. Image WWD

Marios Schwab F/w 2015. Image WWD

Christopher Kane

Christopher Kane F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Erdem

Erdem F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Erdem F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Erdem F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Erdem F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Erdem F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Erdem F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Belstaff

Belstaff F/w 2015. Image WWD

Toga

Toga F/w 2015. Image WWD

Toga F/w 2015. Image WWD

Osman

Osman F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Osman F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Osman F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Osman F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Roksanda

Roksanda F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Roksanda F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Roksanda F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Peter Pilotto

Peter Pilotto F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Peter Pilotto F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Peter Pilotto F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALIMAGES

Barbara Casasola

Barbara Casasola F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Barbara Casasola F/w 2015. Image PHOTO

Duro Olowo

Duro Olowo F/w 2015. Image WWD

Thomas Tait

Thomas Tait F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALMAGES

Thomas Tait F/w 2015. Image INDIGITALMAGES

Palmer Harding

Palmer Harding F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Palmer Harding F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE

Palmer Harding F/w 2015. Image IMAGETREE