Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Marco de Vincenzo
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
Marco de Vincenzo
Primavera Mix- Elle España March 2015
Model: Eugenia Volodina
Photographer: Xavi Gordo
Stylist: Inmaculada Jiménez
Hair & Makeup: Vicky Marcos
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan
Peuterey Aiguille Noire
Ahh the seventies… what a time for fashion and music! I wonder if some of that era’s taste-setters realized how their influence would be felt through the decades- and now used as inspiration by many of today’s taste makers. Designer Dennis Basso is one of these modern taste makers. Citing the “glamour of the Seventies” as his inspiration for Fall 2015, he really went to town with his theme! The result is a study in over-the-top opulence and proved that boho- glam is again the look and more!
For Fall, Mr. Basso spun his typically princess furs and ball gowns into something with more ’70s flash, tweaking his collection until he produced something that spoke to the hearts of every single modern day Studio 54 glamazon. “It’s about having a good time,” Mr. Basso said backstage- hence he paired velvet tunics with flared high-waisted trousers, sparkling mini dresses and slinky gold gowns with flamboyant fringed furs and alligator- patterned leather. New accessories were seen with the addition of long, thin silk scarves and gorgeous embossed hobo bags.
Evening looks and fur are still the bread and butter of Mr. Basso’s offerings, but this season his day looks were hard to overlook with their colour- blocked trousers, patterned minidresses, silky blouses and diaphanous dresses showing beneath fuzzy black and grey wool and leather- trimmed fur. My particular favourites from this segment include a pair of banded wool trousers in slate grey and black, a sheer black mini with a netted overly and a sparkly mini sheaf with graphic bands of pink, gold and tan. I’d wear these anywhere in a heartbeat!
As always, Mr. Basso fully delivered for evening. His muses are flashy uptown ladies, and from his elaborate furs that are meant to be layered over airy dresses to his metallic gowns, he gave his clients what they’re looking for. In Mr. Basso’s eyes more is more… yet oddly enough I think this season’s best work was seen in his subtler evening looks. A pair of simple, body skimming shifts in unadorned silk were effortlessly elegant and were a perfect respite to the sumptuous excess of sequins, beads and metallic brocades seen everywhere else on the runway.
Among all the New York shows, Dennis Basso’s is definitely the place to look for over-the top glamour! Fall 2015 provided brand lovers with their seasonal supply of opulence. How utterly and fully fab! -Ana
Art has long served as a source of inspiration for designers, and this is always the case for Delpozo designer, Joseph Font, a man whose work- like art- is filled with both drama and richness. Every season, Mr. Font has tried to convey artistic sentiments to consumers, with his efforts having resulted in fantastical prêt-à-couture creations that draw a flood of fashion’s most influential to his seasonal offerings.
This season Mr. Font was inspired by the unsettlingly vibrant paintings of Rhys Lee and Andrey Remnev’s modernist take on classic Pre-Raphaelite works. This resulted in a vivid palette of blush, Kelly green, scarlet, palest blue and acid shades of green and yellow with additional colour pops of punchy cobalt, cherry, pink and gold ornamentation. Its certainly an attention grabbing colour scheme, but its Mr. Font’s masterful architectural shapes that truly captivated the crowd.
His ability to manipulate gauzy fabrics into bubble sleeves, wool into precise origami peaks, bobbinet into loose knots and velvet into on-spot roll necks is truly masterful. There were some structural minis where flat planes of silk were manipulated into cuboid funnel shapes or smooth circle skirts… and let’s not even talk about his capes! My favourite look was a blue silk mini- suit in which a structural folded jacket was paired with stiffly- peaked triangular sided shorts. Too fab! Think of all the styling opportunities! These, worn over a button- front shirt, a silky blouse or even a long-sleeved tee, and paired with boots or brogues would be a fabulously elegant look for most informal daytime events. Plus, either piece would look just as good if worn separately. THAT, is the mark of good design.
Yet for all that structure there was still a lot of softness, both in spirit and in form: column gowns and knitted pullovers were surprisingly refreshing inclusions, as were some hyper- coloured patterned coats with cascading sleeves. Velvet, soft wool and knits came forth in a variety of variations, technically shaped for day while simply done in traditional silhouettes for evening. Again there are some fabulous looks at the mini-length that would make for sparkling additions to anyone’s cocktail and clubbing wardrobes (depending on the styling) and there are some gowns that are stunning in their simplicity. Those velvet columns for example, in red, white and green are perfectly done and would steal the scene at any evening event.
I know I’d wear any one of those in a heartbeat!
Emilio de la Moreno
Micheal van der Ham
McQ Alexander McQueen
Elie Saab Haute Couture
Elie Saab is one of the most consistent couturiers around, with his shows constantly thrilling fashionistas with his signature elegant fare! From his first season, Mr. Saab has established himself as one of the best couturiers in modern times and when it comes to glamour, no one can top Elie Saab’s glittering confections. This season, the designer dedicated the collection to his past, basing it in his childhood in 1960s Beirut.
Mr. Saab based his looks around the women he saw growing up during the city’s heyday, “the Golden Age,” as he called it. “…Back then, Beirut seemed to be constantly adorned for a party that would never end.” This dash of nostalgia injected his Spring 2015 collection with a certain freshness that previous showings may have lacked. He titled the collection “Beirut, Chasing a Dream,” channeling a bit of the essence of his homeland into all of his elegant looks.
Billowing khaftan- inspired looks added variety to Mr. Saab’s classic fit -and- flare silhouettes and goddess gowns, while bejewelled jumpsuits provided a refreshing break from a stream of dresses. On the whole this was a very relaxed collection and Mr. Saab further pushed the laid- back spirit by including pockets in nearly all the looks (gowns included!) and pairing many of his creations with minimalist accessories like unadorned leather belts and low- heeled sandals.
Mr. Saab rarely uses prints but this season, his mother’s tulip-printed silk dress provided a template for new motifs and adornments. Graphic watercolour florals provided a bold new dimension to his looks- especially when printed on sheer fabrics and paired with large 3- dimensional appliqués. There were also crystal- encrusted overlays in lace and net, while ostrich feathers were used to fabulous effect on several looks.
I’m very impressed with the variety seen in Mr. Saab’s designs and it shows that he’s really trying to make the brand relatable to women of every age and style preference. I love how youthful or playful his collections are becoming in terms of colours and accessorizing! There are several completely styled looks that I would wear straight off the runway!
This is perhaps one of the most remarkable Couture collections that Elie Saab has produced to date. It’s as feminine and gorgeous as his previous work, but this season’s heavy dose of nostalgia imbued Spring 2015’s offering with a glamorous vintage vibe! Apart from being a lovely tale of the designer’s childhood, it’s a gorgeous ode to a lost period in history, a sense that elevated the collection above and beyond Mr. Saab’s already sky-high standards.
It’s an almost perfectly executed collection and I’m certain that couture lovers worldwide will be fighting over every look seen on the runway. As usual Elie Saab’s Spring 2015 Couture show has left me spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing gorgeous clothes.
Ralph & Russo Haute Couture
This season, British brand Ralph & Russo was once again included among the precious few international brands invited to present during Paris Couture Week- their runway show being the event that officially closed the Spring 2015 season. Once again, the label proved itself to be more than worthy of the honour by releasing an extraordinary collection that was both breathtakingly beautiful and technically astute.
For Spring 2015 designers, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo focused on the allure of flowers, sprinkling their structural fifties- inspired garments with liberal amounts of crystals, decorative embroidery and articulated floral appliqués. This British couture house has little to prove in terms of finesse and high craft, but the designers surpassed their already high standards and really pushed boundaries in their aesthetic in terms of complexity and technical detailing.
In that respect, the show was extremely progressive with shapes and adornments becoming more opulent with each passing look. One coat dress was extravagantly embroidered with hundreds of flowers connected in intricate patterns, another was detailed with bands of micro ruffles to create cascading layers trimmed with hundreds of tiny ruffles- the bridal gown was so heavily encrusted that the bride required the assistance of four burly attendants to help her turn at the end of the catwalk. 3D flower buds competed with metallic embroidery, pearls and geometric crystals on some gowns, others sported layers of sumptuously embellished lace or net, while on some degradés of pastel organzas were sculpted into floral shapes! True art.
The collection definitely effused the type of romance associated with Hollywood’s glamorous ‘Golden Age’, but amongst the gorgeous array of tea frocks, cocktail dresses and evening gowns, the designers managed to inject a sense of modernity into their lineup with the addition of magnificent architectural pieces.
I have one criticism. For all it’s beautiful inventiveness, the house’s Spring 2015 offering never fully coalesced into a true collection as there was no real cohesion between the sequenced sets of designs. After a while, the constant stream of overworked silhouettes became somewhat tedious. The collection looked more like a compilation of classic couture shapes rather than an offering for a new season- certainly the runway lineup would have benefited greatly from a much tighter edit that would have allowed the exceptional pieces to really stand out.
The Ralph & Russo Spring 2015 collection was undeniably one of the most gorgeous offerings seen on the runway this season, but beyond that, it lacked a certain… something. Overall though, I enjoyed reviewing the show because it was so beautiful. Ralph & Russo is one of the best new couture houses currently operating, but if they want to really become noticed as a major luxury house, the designers still have a little work to do. I have high hopes for them!
Donatella Versace is never one to make a half- assed effort! There is no middle ground in her design- when she decides that she wants a collection that’s full of curves, there is not a straight line to be seen anywhere on the runway. Her Spring 2015 focus was on the seductive curves of a woman’s body and she scalloped, twisted and arched until she achieved a collection that celebrated every aspect of our seductive femininity.
From the very start Ms. Versace aimed to downplay any distractions from her core subject matter- feminine curves. Therefore, she cut embellishments down to the barest minimum so that all the focus would be on the model’s body. The only ornamentation seen in the entire collection appeared towards the middle of the show, first on a series of emoji- embroidered minidresses and then on two slinky jet-embroidered evening dresses. Lace panels and large net cutouts provided the only other departures from a show that was mostly comprised of looks in unadorned but striking shades of black, white, red, and royal blue. To make up for the collection’s stark edge, Ms. Versace further explored her experiments with new silhouettes: skirts were fuller and slightly longer, while her signature skintight dresses boasted flared trains.
To me, this collection had some great pieces, but was a bit of a mess overall. For Spring 2015, Ms. Versace really tried to push the boundaries of her design beyond the house’s expected sex kitten look, but the sad thing is that despite all her efforts, the final collection lacked cohesion and a clear cut message. The clothes were literally all over the place- power suits clashed with tiny minidresses, clingy lace gowns appeared alongside crop tops and dirndl-style skirts… there were sheaf dresses, evening gowns, and towards the end, a series of bodysuits that were more strips of fabric than actual clothes. Even the looks that were more in keeping with her trademark look fell short this season, with those curving cutouts proving to be more of a distraction from the outfit’s taste level than anything else.
Some of her best pieces were seen at the show’s start with two versions of smart black tailleurs- but here too the unusual neckline proved to be a negative factor. Other highlights include a slim one- shouldered sheaf in scarlet silk, a bright blue mermaid gown with a sweetheart neckline and a cutout just below the bust, a black bodysuit topped with rubberized lace (worn by Gwen Stefani to the 2015 Grammy Awards) and a black sequinned minidress.
This was not Donatella Versace’s best show and I think that stems from an underdeveloped central design theme. She really needed to fully explore and define her ideas before taking them to the sample stage, and she should have used a firm editing hand on the runway lineup. With some planning and careful consideration on the design front, I think that she’ll be able to overcome this season’s hiccup in future shows. At the end of the day, she’s an industry icon and we can expect great things from her.
Bouchra Jarrar Haute Couture
Bouchra Jarrar is a largely unknown couturier outside of fashion circles and has been operating under the radar for the past five years. With the lack of truly show stopping evening dresses in her past shows, its really no surprise that her work isn’t more well known, but does the appearance of four in her Spring 2015 show means that she’s finally ready to step into the limelight? I certainly hope so, but I think it may still be a while before we see her work in more exposed situations, publications or red carpets.
It will take a fashion crazy stylist with a keen eye to spot Ms. Jarrar’s silky bias-cut dresses amongst the tide of glitzy confections seen elsewhere on the couture runways this season. But even with such exquisite competition, her designs linger in the minds of reviewers simply because they were free from excess. Ms. Jarrar has always been a minimalist, and her evening looks retain this appeal even with the addition of a few sequins and feathers.
Still Ms. Jarrar did not deviate too far from her usual design paths. She’s always made chic daywear the centerpiece of her collection and as usual it was her main focus with this showing- but with some developments. Miniskirts were new (Ms. Jarrar has always been a trousers type of girl) and her super- short confections with their diagonal zippers are probably the sexiest things spotted on the runways this season. She also injected a little kink into her lineup with some transparent net T-shirts and a spectacular pair of shiny PVC trousers. Signature brand elements provided stability to what was otherwise a deeply progressive collection: a metallic tweed coat with a generous fur collar looked familiar, as did a leather trench- and as always there were Ms. Jarrar’s custom woven fabrics to be seen throughout.
With Spring 2015, Bouchra Jarrar has proved that she’s ready to make her name known to those outside of the high fashion circles. With this collection I think that there’s a good chance that will soon happen. Too fab!
Vikor & Rolf Haute Couture
Victor & Rolf’s couture collections have always been artistic expressions. I’ve always appreciated their wildly creative sentiments and I was happily surprised to see what they came up with for Spring 2015. The entire collection can be simply summed up into one look: a floral-print baby-doll dress, a pair of flip- flops, and a straw hat. It’s the quintessential country girl look, but as always, the duo took the folksy vibe to a completely different level by literally exploding it!
The Dutch duo brought Spring 2015 in with an eruption of shapes, colours and forms that started from the very first look- a pleated A-line dress unfurling from one shoulder and propped up by a voluminous petticoat. It bore a twisting pattern of white flowers outlined in black and blue- a motif repeated throughout the collection but with each subsequent look, the colourless flowers were replaced with vivid hues until they materialized into a hallucination of dimension and color. Flower cutouts took on 3-dimensional forms and were lifted straight off the fabric in voluminous clusters, while singular specimens trailed off the actual dresses to float above and behind them like spectral wings. All the while the models sported magnificent headgear- structural hats made of twisted straw took on unbelievable dimensions, growing until they stretched across the width of the runway.
The collection buzzed with an excessive madcap energy, but unlike the whimsical lilts seen elsewhere on the couture runways, Victor & Rolf’s statement struck a more sinister note. The designers steered the mood towards madness more than anything else: the structural shapes of the clothes became more nightmarish with each passing look, the frantic patterns became increasingly more vivid until they resembled shifting hallucinations, colours jarred and became disturbingly bright and all the while those sprawling headpieces became more and more unbelievable. FAB.
The designers later cited the work of Vincent van Gogh as a direct inspiration for the show… and it’s easy to see his raw, unsuppressed energy pulsing throughout everything that happened on the runway. Yet, those tragic feelings of anxiety and depression that madness invokes were also felt throughout. Spring 2015’s collection really deserves to be titled “wearable art” more than “couture collection” as I can more see it showcased in an exhibition rather than on a clients. Except maybe Daphne Guinness or Björk Guðmundsdóttir…
Victor & Rolf’s Spring 2015 collection mirrored the progressive journey of an unbalanced mind by showing the degrees by which sanity becomes demolished- that’s no easy undertaking for anyone to approach and this duo managed to do this purely through fabric manipulation! This feat becomes even more stunning when you consider the degrees of sensitivity and realism that the duo was able to achieve and the way that their work ended up being downright spectacular to behold. It’s no surprise then to discover that three pieces from the collection have already been purchased for Rotterdam’s Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen by art collector Han Nefkens.
Victor & Rolf took my breath away with their Spring 2015 couture collection. I really think that much of this collection deserves to be placed amongst the great works of contemporary fashion and design masters. I can’t wait to see what the duo comes up with next!