The House of Fendi has yet again released a collection that veers away from current fashion trends. Granted, this is the House norm for both Fendi and head designer, Karl Lagerfeld, but this offering is downright fantastic. Though (the overworked) Mr. Lagerfeld is notoriously anti retro- and in a season that’s seen an unrelenting release of seventies- inspired collections, he and Sylvia Venturini Fendi have released an offering that’s geared towards the future. And what a fab future it is!
The architecture of the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana once again served as inspiration for the duo and their Fall 2015 pieces are an abstract mix of geometry, experimental volumes and a little fun. It was a delightful fusion of faux-utilitarian pragmatism and flamboyance that resulted in progressive twists on traditional shapes, textures and construction.
There was a hint of Alpine worker to the pinafores and chaps-like leather panels attached to the ends of skirts, the boxy tabard tops, the angular bibs and aprons with giant button fastenings and the outsized leather gardening gloves. The much used panelling technique was seen throughout the collection, with blouses, coats, dresses, skirts- even pants being made from pieced-together sections of material. Mr. Lagerfeld has said that this collection was meant to convey a sense of protection and gritty sturdiness, but these offerings are fit for a fashionable lady when constructed in suede and trimmed in sumptuous furs.
There was a lot of contrast to be seen in terms of textures and colours- wool met with heavy silk, corduroy was paired with shirling, and colour blocked furs were spliced with leather and suede. Colour blocked panels made graphic impact in dramatic shades of burnt orange, chocolate brown, blush, taupe and monochromatic black and white- especially when paired with the abstract prints inspired by artists Sophie Taeuber-Arp and Giorgio de Chirico.
While Mr. Lagerfeld aimed to convey a linear design scheme with his shapes, the diversity was seen with silhouettes in crisp, lean looks in a variety of lengths appearing alongside girly, swingy options and mega-volume coats. Fendi’s focus has long been on fab outerwear and for 2015, they combined modern tech silhouettes and puffy Alpine ski attire with fur looks typical of their ’70s heyday. Ski bunny puffer jackets were trimmed with gigantic fur collars, while everything from ladylike coats, anoraks, massive gilets and vests and amply padded mini-jackets to big-as-a-bear overcoats also trotted down the catwalk. To me though, the crowning pieces of this collection are a pair of adorable shearling mimidresses and a snuggly mini coat, both of which are just gorgeous!
There’s a lot to love with the Fendi Fall 2015 collection, and there’s something for everyone to be found amongst this season’s looks. I love the youthful vibe of this season’s show, the playfulness that was be seen throughout it all- and that was even before I spotted a minidress! Fendi fall 2015 was fabulously done.