Carolina Herrera has long been one of my favourite designers and following her work for the last few seasons, I’m basically besotted with everything CH. For Spring 2015 she played with flowers- digitizing and pixilating blooms in artful and unexpected ways, so it’s only to be expected that she would approach Fall 2015 with the same imaginative verve. She didn’t disappoint as Fall brought a serene water theme. With a subject as broad and rich in inspiration as this, Ms. Herrera dove into fall with a collection full of allusions to the deep blue sea!
Ms. Herrera is a master of prints, and showed her expertise by combining patterns and seam lines to mesmerizing effect: dewdrops dotted skirts and gowns, graphic waves undulated across daywear and outerwear, evening gowns were splattered with metallic drops and monochromatic splatters. More subtly, she spliced dresses and suits with curving alligator wave details, allowing the graphic lines to sweep across pale expanses of wool, lamb and fox. FABBBB!
Prints aside, she further pushed her theme with textured fabrics, rippled jacquards, 3-D appliqués and trims, fur adornments and hand-painted effects. Her colour palette was beautiful- a lot of blue of course, but it swept through the spectrum from palest blue to true deep ocean hues. Variety was added with solid shades of pale grey, black and white, while glimmering metallics and vivid fire-engine red added a touch of heat.
Shapes keyed in perfectly to the oceanic theme with curvy but minimalist silhouettes, clean lines and an absence of fuss in the figure- skimming garments. Where there was volume, it was in lightly flared minis and fluted evening looks.
As a rule, prêt-à-porter collections focus mainly on daywear and this show supplied a variety of sleek options- with some fabulous outerwear and accessories thrown into the mix. Ms. Herrera always provides her clients with a surprising range of options for cocktail and evening, and this Fall 2015 show delivers a fabulous array of choice. Particular highlights were a flounced gown of ice blue silk, a sleek white cap-sleeved column dress and a patterned gown with a metallic printed overlay.
I hate myself for typing this, but there were one or two semi-hiccups. To me, the looser that Ms. Herrera interpreted the theme, the fiercer the design. I’m talking about some evening looks with prickly embroidery trims. Had this ornamentation been used with more restraint, it would have been stunning… but it was just too distracting and made otherwise beautiful garments look kitschy.
The Carolina Herrera F/w 2015 collection is undeniably beautiful. I can see it being a big hit with both long-standing brand followers and new consumers. There were a few rough spots, but overall, what a fine collection! Don’t you think?