Friday Fierceness!

“Go East”- Vogue US May 2015

Model: Fei Fei Sun
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Stylist: Grace Coddington
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath

*In anticipation of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Anna Wintour Costume Centre’s annual Gala, the May 2015 edition of US Vogue features an editorial based on the upcoming exhibit “China: Through the Looking Glass.” The fab spread displays some of the Haute Couture highlights from the upcoming show.

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

I’m quietly swooning because I LOVE this label. Designers Rohit Ghandi and Rahul Khanna are names that have become synonymous with the term ‘effortlessly glamourous.’ Their flair for producing subtly dramatic, elegant but wearable, exquisitely constructed prêt-à-porter garments has rightly gained them a place amongst India’s fashion elite. For Fall 2015, the duo delivered again with a breathtakingly gorgeous collection!

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Entitled Early Frost, the offering was inspired by the fragility of nature at the start of winter. This sense of past grandeur played out across the collection in a muted palette of black, white, ash grey and smoke shades. However, the organic theme was most visible the designers’ use of textural embellishments, with ornamentation taking ques from sources all over the zoological and botanical world (our plant crazy menswear writer thoroughly approves of this theme by the way).

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Elaborate trails of burnished metal embellishments resembled exoskeletons when layered on delicate panels of tulle and net, while elsewhere, sheer mesh was enshrouded in glittering expanses of vine-like beadwork. Prints and textured appliqués were inspired by natural animal print motifs and fur. Scales, both metallic and leather, were another big part of this collection and were applied to everything from basic separates like pencil skirts and mini- dresses, to attention-grabbing evening looks.

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

The designers’ keen eye for detail was also expressed in their experimentation with fabric textures; a column gown with a cut- out cropped bodice came with a skirt of embellished mesh, a beaded knitwear blouse appeared with trailing sleeves and diaphanous tulle underpinnings, while a cascade of solid ruffles gave graphic impact to a sheer halter top. Textured leather was used to fabulous effect elsewhere in this collection, with glossy embossed scales and rugged pebble finishes adding depth and dimension to even the simplest looks.

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Silhouettes were sleek but tantalizingly sexy with many looks sporting plunging necklines, thigh-high slits and jagged cut-out panels. There was a lot of layering on the runway; capes, lazer cut jackets and exaggerated sleeves were draped over high-waisted skirts, embossed neoprene dresses and sexy shifts. Unexpected details like slashed sleeves, cascading asymmetrical panels and billowing illusion shoulders give a heavy dose of drama without compromising on elegance.

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

This a collection with many options for daytime and evening- there are complete looks that can be worn straight off the runway, while the wide range of separates allows for a whole world of mix- and- match possibilities. The importance of presenting an array of separates is something that I’m noticing Indian designers understand well, but Rohit+Rahul do this expertly. Key pieces include a white tailored suit with a swingy cape-illusion blazer, a sheer white jumpsuit, a pair of loosely tailored cuffed ankle trousers, a glossy scale-print pencil skirt and a monochrome colour blocked dress with a textured skirt. These are truly fabulous!

Rohit Ghandi + Rahul Khanna F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Rohit Ghandi and Rahul Khanna delivered fantastically for Fall 2015. Effortlessly dramatic, stunningly theatrical and wearable, this was a wonderfully thought out and executed collection. Come winter, these are items that you’ll be glad to have invested in!

So Fab!

xx- Ana

Rajesh Pratap Singh

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

It’s no surprise that the highlights of every Fashion Week are often found amongst the most dramatic runway shows. Many times, a truly successful fashion show is accomplished by not only presenting a fabulous collection, but by also having a well executed runway production. This season, Indian designer Rajesh Pratap Singh, through the dramatic presentation of his Fall 2015 collection, aimed to be the one that everyone remembered from Amazon India Fashion Week.

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Entitled Because Medicine is the Best Laughter the designer (who hails from a medical family), dedicated his new line to his family and all those associated with health industry. He displayed his vision on a recreated hospital set complete with beds, IV bags and overhead surgical lights. “I was born into a medical family and everyone in my family stuck to this industry. I also spent a lot of time in hospital, so I know a lot, and I think it needs to be celebrated in a beautiful way,” he said. “The collection is a tribute to the health workers and everything they work through… People in healthcare have to be super professional in spite of everything else which goes on in their head…so we were just trying to represent that.” I love this sentimentality in his theme.

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

To me though… it was a little macabre- but certainly was an innovative presentation with models tricked out in geeky spectacles and surgical masks, stomping to the blaring accompaniment of a live rock band.

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

With all that was going on in the runway presentation, the collection itself had to be standout impressive- and it was. Prim 1950s silhouettes were rendered in graphic black and white prints and paired with quirky details like leather gloves, folded nurse’s caps, patent oxford heels and gum-coated fabrics. There was a good selection of the designer’s signature Ikat prints on show, along with a riot of punchy colour blocks, polka dots, pop-art florals and chequered motifs.

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

While most Indian fashion designers play with a gamut of colours, Mr. Singh prefers to focus his creative energy into black and white creations. Although his collections are usually punctuated by pops of colour, this season the designer stuck exclusively to the monochromatic theme, only allowing the tiniest hint of red to be seen running down the backs some looks where a strip of scarlet selvedge was used to evoke images of veins.

The dark details didn’t end there- some ripped leather looks were held together by “suture” stitched seams and clustered polka dots were made to look like drops of blood.

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

However the collection wasn’t all doom and gloom. Fabulous handwoven merino sheath dresses, pleated skirts, skirt suits, slim sweaters, wrap dresses and starched button- down blouses were all on show, along with a range of fierce outerwear toppers like deconstructed blazers, leather trenches and knee-length wool coats.

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Crisp shirt collars, boat necks and swingy full skirts referenced the outfits of prim 1950s- era nurses, but this offering was anything but clinical. The unexpected inclusion of a modern jumpsuit, a pair of slouchy trousers and an outsized graphic-print hoodie tied the collection to a fiercely contemporary mindset. Was it ever fabulous!

Rajesh Pratap Singh F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

All in all, it was a show that told its story impeccably from start to finish. Rajesh Pratap Singh’s Fall 2015 collection was great and just so effortlessly chic! I love it, and I really can’t say anything else- it was just too fierce!

-Ana

Hemant & Nandita

Hemant & Nandita F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Loves, I’m sure that you’ve realized that I love all things luxurious. So, after recently picking up a Vogue India and being overwhelmed with some downright gorgeous clothing, I thought I’d post about some of my favourites from India’s talented best! Join me on this trip to the exotic, glittering East!

For Fall 2015, designer duo Hemant and Nandita turned to Kashmir province to inspire their new collection that premiered on Day 2 of Amazon India Fashion Week. Entitled Boho Caravan, their offering was sparked by the idea of a modern nomadic gypsy, a spirited bohemian wanderer whose fiery temper and vivacious attitude is matched only by her flair for fabulous dressing.

Hemant & Nandita F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

The scenic splendour of Kashmir province has long been a source of inspiration for many designers. Really, who wouldn’t be stimulated when surrounded by this region’s dazzling natural beauty, timeless architecture, extravagant handicrafts and beautiful traditional clothing? The duo projected the love for their theme through graphic storytelling with looks that paid homage to the region’s time honoured art of extravagant embroidery, weaving and fabric dyeing.

Hemant & Nandita F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

The result? A a lavish supply of bright floral and ethnic prints, intricate texture treatments, lush ornamentation, sweeping trims and rich earth tones. Colours were subtly vibrant with muted tones of deep brown, smoky grey, olive green, mustard yellow, burgundy and dull blue being peppered up with bright additions of turquoise, dusky rose, mint green and crimson. What a gorgeous palette!

Hemant & Nandita F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

While folk and regional tapestry may have been the main focus of their collection, the duo entwined regional heritage with modern bohemian glamour, which resulted in a muse that glamorously straddles old and new. There’s a heavy seventies vibe running through the collection that enhances the cool girl vibe displayed at the show. Brightly printed pussybow blouses, relaxed trousers, embellished capes and pleated skirts appeared amongst the expected excess of trailing fringe, tapestry- inspired florals, intricate needlework, tassels, pom poms, floppy felt hats and statement silver jewellery. Boho- glam indeed!

Hemant & Nandita F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Silhouettes were also suitably eclectic with billowing khaftans, fringed ponchos, ruffled vests and slouchy trousers being paired with snuggly overcoats, cuffed blouses, flirty knee- length skirts and sweeping capes. The resulting look reflects the true sense of a women with her own style- of effortless elegance… and it’s incredibly appealing.

Hemant & Nandita F/w 2015. Image VOGUE INDIA/SAGAR AHUJA

Hemant and Nandita have truly impressed me with their Fall 2015 offering. Almost every garment in their collection can hold its own when worn individually or separately! There are whole looks that can be worn straight off the runway and there are endless options to choose from within their array of separates. Considering all the mix-and match potentials offered, this collection is any fashionista’s dream!

It’s just too fierce!

XX- Ana

Friday Fierceness!

“Spring in Azerbaijan”- L’Officiel Azerbaijan April 2015

(On Maria) Shirt, embroidered trousers: Dolce & Gabbana. (On Flavio) T-shirt, jeans: Dolce & Gabbana. Image L’OFFICIEL AZERBAIJAN/NADEEM ALIKHAN

Models: Maria Semenyachenko and Flavio Sobrinho
Photographer: Nadeem Alikhan
Stylist: Anastasia Shershen
Hair and makeup: Natalia Malova

Trussardi F/w 2015

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

Gaia Trussardi brought a vintage style of military chic to the Milan runways with her Fall 2015 show. In many ways it was a heritage collection, with constant reminders of the fact that the family label was started in 1911 by her great grandfather, a luxury glover. Fall 2015 was teeming with elements that pointed to the glove world- from the stitching to the buttery nappa leather, and with references that their products have been sold to everyone from the British Royal Family to the military during World War II.

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

Obviously, leather was a big part of this collection. It appeared in a range of textures (pebble-marked, perforated or smooth as silk) and in various shades of brown, grey, cream, green and metallic tones. Almost everything- from greatcoats and jackets to dresses and separates, were cut in leather that was so languid and thin that it moved with the ease of fine fabric.

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

The aviator theme was strongly present throughout the lineup, with items such as utilitarian factory worker jumpers, slim leather skirtsuits, shearling bomber jackets, trench coats, gigantic fuzzy greatcoats, smart boots, aviator sunglasses and satchels appearing throughout the show.

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

This was crossed with eighties references (another heritage cue since the eighties marked Trussardi’s foray into prêt-à-porter) like figure-hugging knitted dresses, pencil skirts, roomy pullovers and trim sweaters. Leather was used to fabulous effect on glossy plongé pleated pants, cowl-necked tunics, camisole tops and spaghetti-strapped jumpsuits.

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

A suggestion of fetish could be seen in the inclusion of bustiers, camisole tops, tiny shift dresses and slip gowns but these keyed in perfectly to the theme, and added the right amount of femininity to an otherwise masculine show. Don’t get me wrong though, there’s nothing demure or girlish about Ms. Trussardi’s sleek heroines; these are ladies who look like they could give a lesson or two in domination!

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

As with any heritage collection, Fall 2015 spoke to the essentials of Trussardi, making it interesting to see all the little details that tied the houses’ modern offerings to it’s original work. A great example is the use of leather- one of the House of Trussardi’s foundations. Using only gorgeous leather textures, colours and finishes, the collection was void of any other ornamentation but decorative embossing and stitching techniques on the skins, ensuring that all attention was focused on this all important material. “I really felt the need to go to essentialism and purity…” Ms. Trussardi remarked before the show, “…you lose track of the beauty of the essentials of how a garment could be beautiful and nice with just some small details like stitching.” It’s a refreshing concept, and I love seeing how glamourous the result of this stripped- down approach to detailing was.

Trussardi F/w 2015. Image INDGITALIMAGES

On the whole, Trussardi’s Fall 2015 offering is exceptionally polished and undeniably chic. It’s full of clothing that can transition seamlessly from day to night and that are appropriate for most settings and events. There’s a lot of room to mix and match, with the majority of looks in this collection being easily be incorporated into any woman’s day-to-day wardrobe. There are even some stunners though that are made for after dark! This is perhaps the first time that I’ve ever considered leather as an option for dressier night events, but this season’s metallic shifts and camisoles are inspiring me in unimaginable ways. Love it all!

Trust me, this collection is too fierce!

xx – Ana

Friday Fierceness!

“An Undiscovered Musical”- Vogue Italia April 2015

(On Christopher) Waistcoat: Tom Ford, Trousers: Anderson & Sheppard, Shirt and tie: Proper Cloth, Shoes: Church’s. (On Karen) Gown: Donna Karan Atelier, Jewels: Lyn Bann. Image VOGUE ITALIA/STEVEN MEISEL

Models: Karen Elson and Christopher Niquet
Photographer: Steven Meisel
Stylist: Karl Templar
Hair: Guido Palau
Makeup: Pat McGrath