Gaia Trussardi brought a vintage style of military chic to the Milan runways with her Fall 2015 show. In many ways it was a heritage collection, with constant reminders of the fact that the family label was started in 1911 by her great grandfather, a luxury glover. Fall 2015 was teeming with elements that pointed to the glove world- from the stitching to the buttery nappa leather, and with references that their products have been sold to everyone from the British Royal Family to the military during World War II.
Obviously, leather was a big part of this collection. It appeared in a range of textures (pebble-marked, perforated or smooth as silk) and in various shades of brown, grey, cream, green and metallic tones. Almost everything- from greatcoats and jackets to dresses and separates, were cut in leather that was so languid and thin that it moved with the ease of fine fabric.
The aviator theme was strongly present throughout the lineup, with items such as utilitarian factory worker jumpers, slim leather skirtsuits, shearling bomber jackets, trench coats, gigantic fuzzy greatcoats, smart boots, aviator sunglasses and satchels appearing throughout the show.
This was crossed with eighties references (another heritage cue since the eighties marked Trussardi’s foray into prêt-à-porter) like figure-hugging knitted dresses, pencil skirts, roomy pullovers and trim sweaters. Leather was used to fabulous effect on glossy plongé pleated pants, cowl-necked tunics, camisole tops and spaghetti-strapped jumpsuits.
A suggestion of fetish could be seen in the inclusion of bustiers, camisole tops, tiny shift dresses and slip gowns but these keyed in perfectly to the theme, and added the right amount of femininity to an otherwise masculine show. Don’t get me wrong though, there’s nothing demure or girlish about Ms. Trussardi’s sleek heroines; these are ladies who look like they could give a lesson or two in domination!
As with any heritage collection, Fall 2015 spoke to the essentials of Trussardi, making it interesting to see all the little details that tied the houses’ modern offerings to it’s original work. A great example is the use of leather- one of the House of Trussardi’s foundations. Using only gorgeous leather textures, colours and finishes, the collection was void of any other ornamentation but decorative embossing and stitching techniques on the skins, ensuring that all attention was focused on this all important material. “I really felt the need to go to essentialism and purity…” Ms. Trussardi remarked before the show, “…you lose track of the beauty of the essentials of how a garment could be beautiful and nice with just some small details like stitching.” It’s a refreshing concept, and I love seeing how glamourous the result of this stripped- down approach to detailing was.
On the whole, Trussardi’s Fall 2015 offering is exceptionally polished and undeniably chic. It’s full of clothing that can transition seamlessly from day to night and that are appropriate for most settings and events. There’s a lot of room to mix and match, with the majority of looks in this collection being easily be incorporated into any woman’s day-to-day wardrobe. There are even some stunners though that are made for after dark! This is perhaps the first time that I’ve ever considered leather as an option for dressier night events, but this season’s metallic shifts and camisoles are inspiring me in unimaginable ways. Love it all!
Trust me, this collection is too fierce!
xx – Ana