“Suite Français”- Haprer’s Bazaar UK December 2015
Model: Clémence Poésy
Photographer: Koto Bolofo
Stylist: Leith Clark
Hair: Panos Papandrianos
Makeup: Janeen Witherspoon
“Suite Français”- Haprer’s Bazaar UK December 2015
Model: Clémence Poésy
Photographer: Koto Bolofo
Stylist: Leith Clark
Hair: Panos Papandrianos
Makeup: Janeen Witherspoon
“Hots for Vogue”- Vogue México y Latinoamérica November 2015
Model: Karmen Pedaru
Photographer: David Roemer
Stylist: Sarah Gore Reeves
Hair: David von Cannon
Make-up: Fredrik Stambro
Moncler Gamme Rouge was one of the last shows of the Fashion Month schedule, taking place on the final day of Paris Fashion Week. The final shows of Fashion Week are often overlooked as all the fashion juggernauts have already presented their collections, but this season Moncler’s event was one that rightly didn’t escape the public’s interest.
For Spring 2016, Moncler melded the art of fencing with the alluring Rococo châteaux to create a collection that reflected the discipline of the sport with a romantically delicate sense of femininity. Models, swathed in flared confections of guipure, silk, and embroidered tulle, strolled down a runway made up to look like a country meadow complete with wildflowers and tufts of grass. It sounds like it all radiated sweet innocence and delicacy, but there was a tougher edge to the display with fencing masks, swords and embellished sneakers providing enough contrast to create the perfect blend of sporty chic.
It was a good look: sleek leotards, wool sweatsuits, leggings, parkas, shorts, windbreakers and turtlenecks were covered in intricate couture-level adornment, while flirty dresses and coats were split by noticeable zips or fastened by drawstring closures. PVC plastic, wool, jacquard and technical mesh were backed with lace, embroidered with 3-D flowers or covered with intricate trompe-l’œil appliqués to create some of the most beautiful pieces of activewear that I’ve ever seen.
It was a lovely show with a definite veer toward the romance more than it did sports, with sleek body conscious shapes featured throughout the show among a majority of girly, almost baby-doll dress. Coats, dresses and blouses were all of super short fit-and-flare shapes with flirty skirts, voluminous flounces, petticoat ruffles, frilled sleeves and lacy collars- all obvious nods to 17th century rococo.
Show notes cited 17th century swordswoman Julie d’Aubigny, dancer Lola Montez, socialite C.Z. Guest (who loved flowers and was an avid gardener) and a number of iconic Bond Girls as the living inspirations behind the showing, and with them came a spunky gamine sensibility that made for a dramatic presentation.
“Versailles meets Abstraction,” is how creative director Giambattista Valli described the collection, and it’s a great theme. Apart from illustrating the clothing, this term can also be used to depict the technique behind Moncler’s Gamme Rouge line, which seeks to seamlessly combine haute couture with high performance sportswear.
The result is something that goes far beyond the realm of luxury sportswear… nor can it really be considered sporty couture as these garments are made to take more of a beating than traditional atelier fare. The pieces are meant to be beautiful, but also must be able to stand up to the beating that sportswear is designed for. This has never been more apparent than it was in this collection.
Technical dentelle lace, PVC, flannel and foiled leather were teamed with delicate rebrodé mesh, embroidered organza, tulle and elaborate baroque appliqués to create looks that perfectly toed the line between function and fabulousness. “Moncler gives me the technical fabrications and the support, and I do it in an atelier way,” Mr. Valli noted, “I love the idea that Gamme Rouge is sporty but you can get married in it.” Hence the fabulous results: a Gamme Rouge parka is not just outerwear, it’s a rococo creation in waterproof guipure. Put simply, its too damn fab.
Moncler Spring 2016 collection was through and through, perhaps the best Gamme Rouge offering that I’ve seen to date. It’s the perfect mix of femininity, romanticism, quirkiness, and opulence with functionality, durability and streamlined sportiness. Every aspect of the show- from the garment construction, ornamentation and shapes, to the accessories, runway styling and the setting itself- was perfectly executed. It was absolutely spot on and was a wonderful way to round off this year’s Spring Fashion Month.
Giambattista Valli, well done. I’m thoroughly in love!
Xx – Ana
Dries van Noten’s work has always fascinated me. A highly conceptual and independent designer, his garments have an ethereal touch that’s thoroughly unique. No matter how unusual his designs, you’ll want to wear them all- even the ones that are a touch out of line with your personal style. In many ways I think that’s exactly what Mr. van Noten wants to achieve with his seasonal offerings; he wants women to wear his garments and feel extraordinary in them. Season after season, this is beautifully done.
Mr. van Noten’s amalgamation of colour, prints, and embellishment is exceptional,and there are few other designers who can match his talent of combining and utilizing these elements. This season, he wanted to thoroughly exercise this skill right to the edge of what is considered design taboo.
For Spring 2015, the designer created a collection that effused a sense of the faded glamour of old Hollywood. It’s an inspirational source that was seen previously on this season’s runways, but Mr. van Noten’s rendering was remarkably fresh. Rather than just focusing on traditional glamourous elements of the Golden Age, he played up the melancholy of era of fast lifestyles and the tragedies of some beloved icons to create a look that was almost entirely new.
Not that there was really anything melancholy to be seen within the collection itself- Spring 2016’s offering was a vivacious cacophony of colours, prints and flashy ornamentation that was anything but downhearted!
“Flamboyant, not eccentric,” is how the designer summed up his latest work, which was bursting with his signature jewel toned and richly adorned designs. “Eccentric can be a sad old lady with twenty-five cats. A flamboyant lady is the lady who lives. She wears and she dares and she has fun.” Judging from all the gorgeousness on display, it’s clear that this lady certainly leads an exciting life.
The collection ran through a gamut of references, many of which suggested exemplary women as their inspiration bases. There was a hint of Katherine Hepburn to the strong shouldered gowns, outsized jackets, pantsuits and forties hairdos. 80’s- era Madonna showed up in frothy full skirts, tulle slipdresses, and vintage satin bras worn over tee-shirts; while wing motifs, swirling surrealist prints and graphic tattoo art bodysuits suggested fashion’s resident queen of surrealism, Elsa Schiaparelli.
Considering Mr. van Noten’s usual degree of design modesty, this collection was a surprisingly bold display of bravado which made for a refreshing and thoroughly engaging show!
Spring 2015 wasn’t just flash and flair, there were plenty of gorgeous looks that would be a dream to fit into most wardrobes: easy swing coats, silk blouses, full-cut trousers, pantsuits in tweed and printed wool, patterned knits, button-front shirts, embellished shorts, and printed skirts.
While dizzying colours and patterns are at the core of Mr. van Noten’s work, this season he forwent mixing prints with patterns in a myriad of hues and set a two- colour limit on most of his looks. With variations that ranged from shocking yellow and purple, burgundy and grey, fuschia and cream to navy blue and black, the results were exceptionally vivid. The designer pushed the button even further by adding sequined organic patterns and graphic geometric prints into the mix for an effect that was as flashy as it was fun.
When you think of “elegant fashion” you probably envision something along the lines of vintage Dior, but Mr. Van Noten has totally created his own version of elegance. This show was an exceptional example- the audacity of this onslaught of colour, pattern and surrealism was equal parts shocking and mesmerizing. More than beautiful, it felt inventive and original… like Mr. van Noten was pushing the boundaries of elegant dressing onto new ground with a chic sense of surety.
It’s simply gorgeous and I love every piece. Bergdorf Goodman cannot stock this collection soon enough- I want it all!
Xx – Ana
“Winter Heats Up”- Harper’s Bazaar US November 2015
Model: Ola Rudnicka
Photographer: Norman Jean Roy
Stylist: Natasha Royt
Hair: Tamara McNaughton
Makeup: Karan Franjola
“Ensemble Pieces”- Vogue UK November 2015
Model: Karlie Kloss
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Stylist: Lucinda Chambers
Hair: Sam McKnight
Make up: Sally Branka
Veronica Etro outdid herself this season by delivering a gorgeous bohemian lineup that was both subtlety intricate in ornamentation and unexpected in form. For Spring 2016, Ms. Etro melded elements from European folk costumes and haberdashery, Edwardian romanticism, Arts and Crafts, and the Russian Ballet into her presentation. Traditional Etro signatures were on display here as well: rich colours, kaleidoscopic prints all with that trademark Etro bohemian flavour.
In writing, it sounds like an excess of sickly-sweet romanticism, but Ms. Etro kept her references close at hand and masterfully created a collection that brought dreamy femininity back to her family brand’s runway.
It was beautiful! There was an abundance of ruche, ruffle and flounce in many of the silhouettes, particularly on sleeves, capes and skirts, but Ms. Etro provided enough moodiness to keep the flouf in check. Silhouettes were mostly simple and fluid with sporty references and languid tailoring adding additional restraint. Many of the girlish looks were styled with silky bomber jackets, sporty jogging pants, outsize jackets (very much like a luxury peignoir) and ballerina-esque wrap sweaters that gave the garments an underlying sense of strength.
This potent combination of strength and delicacy provided the show with an intriguingly moody undercurrent.
It’s really not girly. “In the end… it is not a sweet collection,” confirmed Ms. Etro in a show preview, “I am not a sweet person… I don’t like too much girly stuff… I felt strongly about giving the sense of lightness, movement.” Did she ever achieve her goals!
With that in mind, it’s clear why she chose to steer away from any shade that might be considered too youthful, preferring to base her colour palette in muted shades of beige, cream and dull gold. Occasional shots of deep blue, dusky orange and burgundy added further richness to the lineup, while metallic embroideries and opulent ornamentation pushed the sumptuousness even further.
The designer really wowed with her ornamentation this season by implementing fabrics, motifs and embellishment techniques she’s rarely used before. Victorian roses and gypsy inspired florals replaced Etro’s traditional paisley motifs- a surprising development for a brand whose use of paisley is iconic, but these flowers brought a sense of nostalgia and earthy beauty was very much in keeping with the house’s aesthetic.
Nostalgia was further enhanced by Ms. Etro’s use of traditional European crafting techniques (lace, ribbon work, ruching, haberdashery details, etc.) and the countless ways that she integrated them into the collection. She pushed herself further by intentionally keeping the ornamentation unrefined to help bring a nonchalant vibe to the pieces. The results were spectacular, with each piece looking distinctly handcrafted. There were crocheted tops spliced by bands of embroidered silk ribbons, hand-painted belts and bands of silk ribbon gave shape to chiffon gowns, contouring them to the model’s bodies. There was a leather top covered in hand painted blossoms while brightly embroidered flowers spilled across sleeves, skirts and trouser legs in many looks. Beautifully executed, these details really heightened the collection’s luxe factor.
Etro’s Spring 2016 show was a beautiful and refreshing collection. Among all the crazy 1970’s approximations that have been appearing all over the international runways, this potpourri of bohemian romanticism showed a sense of calm and dreamy femininity. Ms. Etro’s work spanned decades this season, and this lack of a precise timeline lent an additional laid- back sense to an already carefree offering that’s full of looks just waiting to be added to any modern cool- girl’s wardrobe.
This was definitely one of my favourite shows of the season. So fab
Xx – Ana
London s/s 2016!
Jasper Conran’s Spring show was one of the first in the lineup of London Fashion week and it really started
things off on a high note! For Spring 2016, Mr. Conran chose to base his collection around an organic theme which he rendered into a relaxed, earthy offering.
It was overall quite graphic, with the designer choosing to relate his theme in a range of varying fabric textures and vivid motifs. Cotton provided a sharp background for punchy leaf prints and bold stripes, while linen was the base for line-art leaves and branches. Water-dwelling foliage was also represented by coral- patterned silk and layers of semi-transparent printed chiffon that mimicked the look of floating seaweed. Sequinned fabric with a splotchy multi-coloured motif resembled some sort of fabulous deep sea algae, while textured solid coloured sequinned looks mirrored swirling ocean currents.
The colour palette was simultaneously organic: numerous shades of green, white, grey and dun. They say that Eskimos have more than 300 words for snow, but this collection proved that Mr. Conran has almost the same number of tints for green. Dozens of shades were on display, some in prints, some standing alone, others mixed with white. He showcased the colour in almost every variant- moss, seaweed, bottle, algae, verdant, lichen, khaki, avocado, leaf, fern- the list goes on, and each beautifully done!
Spring 2016 was all about comfort and wearability, so silhouettes were kept classic and relaxed. Mr. Conran chose to let his prints take centre-stage this season, so shapes were lean and simple, with clean lines, precise detailing and minimum fuss. This resulted in a collection in which almost every look exuded a sense of peaceful relaxation and effortless elegance.
Everything shown was incredibly wearable: breezy chiffon blouses, draped jumpsuits, loose skirts, scarf-necked dresses, trim shorts and long, ankle- skimming shifts. There were sexy split-front jackets, slim trousers, boat-necked sweaters and a huge selection of brightly- printed sun dresses, tennis skirts and shorts that would be perfect options for warm weather jaunts in the summer.
Evening wear options were in good supply here as well, with a display of delicate chiffon and organza frocks, brightly printed silk dresses and club-worthy sequinned separates. The finale looks- long, sequin- encrusted gowns- were truly spectacular and are sure to have many fashion lovers lusting after them this Spring (I’ll take one of each!).
It was a good collection and showed that Jasper Conran truly understands how his customers want to dress. His simple, flattering cuts with that sense of timeless elegance that women love, together with the wide range of seperates he provided, make his collections a dream to mix and match. Even the show’s styling is exceptionally translatable so that many of his looks can be worn straight off the runway to any number of events at almost any time of the year (with the addition of a blouse under the ivory and green coat). In a fashion month of some truly horrific, clothing detracting runway styling, this is so commendable.
Mr. Conran continued his theme perfectly by showing a good selection of easy going accessories- patterned canvas totes, strappy gold sandals and delicate gold jewelry. They’re the perfect things to round off anyone’s summer outfit and they were perfect additions to the looks shown. I particularly love the jewelry.
Jasper Conran’s Spring 2016 show was a moment of beautiful calm in the hectic Fashion Month schedule. I loved every minute of it!
Xx – Ana
I’m always interested to see what Karl Lagerfeld and Sylvia Venturini Fendi create for their runway shows, but there’s always a little extra interest for their Spring/summer presentations. Considering that Fendi is known for its expertise in fur and leather – two materials that don’t lend themselves well to warm weather, it’s intriguing to see what the duo come up with. Well following the Fendi S/s 2016 collection, I’m a believer- turns out that there’s definitely room for leather and fur in your spring wardrobe!
Spring 2016 brought a new look to the term “period dressing” with clothing references that harkened back to bygone eras. Mr. Lagerfeld is famously anti- retro, but this season, he drew inspiration from multiple historical reference points. There was a lot going on in this lineup: stiff, high necklines played up a Victorian theme, full-skirted dresses worn over blouses referenced Alpine milkmaids, A-line pieces worked a crusader vibe, puffed- sleeve tunics and bloomers brought courtly thoughts, while restrictive 80’s-esque yokes and leather breastplates/corsets brought a touch of modern kink. It’s a veritable mashup of costume history… but somehow it all seemed to work!
Crisp, poet- sleeved blouses, circle skirts and elegant tulip dresses were shown in sequence with leather body suits, cargo trousers and mini shorts. There were sheer blouses, flirty flower-embellished party frocks, tapered sheaf dresses with cut-away waists, smocked playsuits, cropped jackets, and summery furs done in a cool open-weave technique.
There’s a certain practicality to many of the looks as many pieces can transition seamlessly through the day and extending into the year. Properly styled, those pouf- sleeved blouses would look great when worn at the workplace or to lunch and are even smart enough to wear at night. The bodysuits are appropriate for a club but would look just as cute layered under a flirty skirt or paired with trousers. Those cutout jackets look good with anything and the outerwear can be extended all the way into fall. It’s all great!
Much emphasis was placed on proportion for Spring 2016, with the designers manipulating fabrics and silhouettes to create sculptural shapes that enhanced womanly curves. Mr. Lagerfeld stayed away from flouf, preferring to create sharp shapes with plain lines, clean cuts and crisp fabric. It does echo Christian Dior’s “New Look”, but the overall effect is entirely modern. Ballooning sleeves, skirts and trouser legs were cinched in at the waist by crisp, almost armor- like corsetry on the voluminous looks, while plainer ones were crafted with precise slits and cutouts at the waist to create exaggerated hourglass figures.
The masterful work of the Fendi atelier was on display throughout the show, particularly in it’s expert leatherwork and weaving. This season, Mr. Lagerfeld preferred a more organic approach to ornamentation and choose decorative stitches and weaves as his only adornment. Some dresses had pockets outlined in wide whipstitching, while others featured harnesses of braided snakeskin, body suits and blouses were contoured by tight basket weaves, and tight smocking gripped the wrists and waists of the more fluid looks. 3D leather flower appliqué brought a cutesy vibe to the lineup, while all those cutouts provided graphic impact with a touch of sexiness.
At a time when intricate surface decoration is everywhere, this leaner approach to ornamentation made for a very refreshing change on pace.
Accessories- wise, this season brought new innovations to Fendi’s already impressive handbag lineup. Detachable 3-D leather flowers decorated the handles and faces of cross-body bags and totes, there were graphic patchwork patterns, decorative whip stitched borders and intricate multi-coloured leather weaves. Many pieces featured detachable straps and handles, allowing buyers to customize each bag to their individual tastes by switching selections from Fendi’s large array of decorative fastenings, or by omitting the straps all together. It’s a great idea on Fendi’s part, and plays in perfectly (and fiercely) with this season’s theme of function-meets-fashion.
Fendi’s S/s 2016 collection was truly one of my favourites from the Milan shows. Everything- from the garments, to the shoes, accessories and runway styling was perfectly done and I thoroughly enjoyed it all. There was a lot to be seen in the lineup, but Mr. Lagerfeld has a deft hand, and masterfully navigated his way through this sea of references. There’s a great amount of contrast in the collection (hard/soft, freedom/restraint, tough/feminine, practical/whimsical, classic/contemporary) but this juxtaposition provides the offering with a savvy dual nature that I’m certain will appeal to consumers.
It was masterfully done and I can’t wait for this collection to hit stores! Fendi Spring 2016 was just too fab!
Xx – Ana
Moon Young Hee