Friday Fierceness!

“Instinto Animal (Animal Instinct)”- Vogue España July 2016

Image VOGUE ESPAÑA/NICO BUSTOS

Model: Natasha Poly
Photographer: Nico Bustos
Stylist: Belén Antolín
Hair: Karim Belghiran
Makeup: Jurgen Braun

*This seriously echoes the work of Veruschka/ Franco Rubartelli in Africa. The full editorial is up on our Facebook page.

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

I love this guy’s style, especially that dragon covered Gucci bomber. Milan, June 2016. Image – mensfashionpost, instagram.com

With this week’s close of the shows at Milano Moda Uomo S/S 2017, there has been a flood of great street style. Milan is always the place to see some great, relatable style both on the runway and off, and this year’s attendees didn’t disappoint!

The woman on the left is where it’s all at! From her cool gold skirt to her fish necklace, she’s amazing. Milan, June 2016. Image – vogue.co.uk

For this week’s SIDEWALK SAUNTER, let’s appreciate some street stars of the Milano shows. Enjoy-

The perpetually well dressed Anna Dello Russo in Milan, June 2016. What a great party look! Image- vogue.co.uk

That denim jacket is cool, but it’s nonchalant placement makes it amazing. Milan, June 2016. Image- wmagazine.com

Details galore. Cool bag, cool scarf, and I’m pretty sure the rest of her outfit is cool too. Milan, June 2016. Image- wmagazine.com

Another denim jacket… maybe I’m really into denim now. The long grey t-shirt and the guy’s messy hair are pretty cool too. Milan, June 2016. Image – vogue.co.uk

Swagger. Milan, June 2016. Image – wmagazine.com

Yup, I’m definitely feeling denim in a big way. That aside, this woman is definitely something- in a big denim shirt and just minding her phone, she looks hot! This could almost be a Coke add!
Milan, June 2016. Image – vogue.co.uk

Anna Dello Russo slaying the scene again, this time with a pair of equally stylish friends. Milan, June 2016. Image- wmagazine.com

A blue toned Rihanna sweater worn with pride… need I say more? Milan, June 2016. Image – wmagazine.com

My best,

Estevan

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

Florence’s Pitti Uomo is in full swing and as usual for this event, the gents have peacock-ed to the nines. Image – gettyimages.com

It’s a busy time in the fashion calendar with back to back Fashion Weeks! As many of the the world’s working models, editors, buyers, stylists, fashion writers – really everyone involved- jet around to the top fashion cities for countless shows, presentations and parties, everyone’s stepping out looking their best.

Selena Gomez in London. Just sexy. Image – pinterest.com

For this week’s Sidewalk Saunter, the focus is on Fashion Week attendees with their cool personal styles. Any yes, not all the pictures are from current Weeks, but I think they’re all worthy of inclusion.

Blogger Carlo Sestini in Milan, January 2016. I’ve always thought Carlo had great style, and his dark clothing with colorful Christian Louboutin shoes and backpack definitely proves that. Image – thefashionpost.com

New York, 2016. Stylish, comfortable and sexy. She looks like she feels great! Image – coolchicstylefashion.com

London 2016. Even in what could easily be an overpowering dress, she had a real presence. I really like the red and her cool phone case! Image – becauseimaddicted.com

Pitti Uomo, Florence 2016. Mannn those sunglasses and lightweight camel coat on the gentleman at right are killing it. Image – menshoes.ua

Milan 2016. I love a monochrome look and this looks both stylish and comfortable, while being appropriate for many situations. Plus, these colors looks good on many skin tones. Image – thefashionspot.com

Pitti Uomo, Florence 2016. So cool. So sleek. So amazing. I could go on with the way this woman’s killing the style game- and we’re not seeing the whole outfit! I like the tattoo peeking out at her neck. Image – gettyimages.com

New York 2016. A great patterned jumpsuit and a classic Chanel bag in a bright color can almost never go wrong. Image – thefashionwatch.com

Pitti Uomo, Florence 2016. Let me start by saying I love this picture with it’s juxtaposed colors and background that makes the man seem off center when he isn’t. Great eye and work Christian Vierig! Style wise, this gentleman looks great, is on trend and has fit his clothes well. Image – gettyimages.com

New York 2016. I’m a sneaker man and these are great- as is the tribal t-shirt on the guy to the right. Image – le21eme.com

London 2016. It’s all about that jacket. Image – fashiondesignweeks.com

Pitti Uomo, Florence 2016. Those patterns could have gone wild, but his choice of having them all in shades of blue harmonizes his look without taking away the interest . The fit of his blazer is great too. Image – vogue.fr

My best,

Estevan.

The Allure of Cartier’s Fruity Style

(Clockwise, from bottom left) A rare brooch and pair of ear clips from 1925, and views of an important 1930’s era bracelet. Image CHRISTIE’S/BONHAM’S

Cartier’s vivid Tutti Frutti jewels are undoubtedly some of the crowning designs in the firm’s vast and storied repertoire. Debuting in the early twentieth century, these gems took the world by storm from the moment they were unveiled, quickly becoming some of the most coveted objects on any jewelry collector’s wish list.

An undated 1930’s demi parure (left) and a necklace, circa 1925. Image SOTHEBY’S/CHRISTIE’S

Inspired by Jacques Cartier’s many voyages to India, these jewels were designed in the exuberant Indian style. Bold and creative, they provided a dramatic break from the severe geometries and monochromatic emphasis of Art Deco by utilizing elaborate mounts covered in layers of bright and colorful gemstones. Using vintage stones purchased in India, the jewels combined exotic gems and motifs with traditional European setting techniques to create a look that was entirely new. Large cabochons and carved stones were implemented into traditional Moghul style with new diamond shapes and French mountings to create pieces that injected refined naturalism and color into Art Deco shapes.

Indian heirlooms revamped by Cartier: (top row, from far left) the Patiala Necklace (1928), the 1927 working sketch of the Patiala Necklace, the Maharajah of Nawanagar’s ceremonial emerald necklace (1926), the (now lost) Patiala Ruby Necklace (1926), (bottom row, from far left) the Maharaja of Nawanagar’s “Eye of the Tiger” Aigrette (1934), a drawing of the Maharajah of Nawanagar’s (now lost) ceremonial necklace (1931), the Maharajah of Kapurthala’s Emerald Aigrette (1926) shown with it’s original sketch, the working sketch of the Maharajah of Patna’s diamond bib (1935). Image GETTY/REENAAHLUWALIA.COM/CARTIER ARCHIVES

Although the style was officially unveiled at the 1925 Art Deco exhibition in Paris, Cartier was producing polychromatic “Indian style” jewelry from as early as 1915, with similar commissioned jewels dating as far back as the start of the 20th century. Cartier’s first recorded piece was created in London in 1901 for Queen Alexandra who wanted an elaborate necklace of rubies, emeralds, and sapphires to pair with some gowns made of brightly colored Indian silks.

(Clockwise, from bottom left) a 1925 clip brooch, a 1928 bracelet, a 1929 garland- style brooch, a convertible 1925 brooch and a pair of 1925 drop earrings. Images CHRISTIE’S/SOTHEBY’S/JEWELS DU JOUR

This first commission sparked a new creative direction for Cartier, as well as a long and fruitful relationship with Indian royalty- especially after Jacques Cartier’s first trip to the country in 1911 where he was commissioned by many nobles to reset their family treasures into fashionable “new style” Parisian jewelry. This direct exposure to the details of traditional Indian jewelry such as colorful floral- motif Jaipur enamels, the varying types of carved stones and the elaborate Polki and Meenakari jewelry styles had a profound effect on Cartier’s designs. From there the House began creating custom pieces using stones, embellishments and mounting techniques learned on trips to the East. This influence coupled with a new supply of rare stones and Cartier’s existing knowledge of design and creative mounting techniques would ultimately translate into some of the most important Art Deco jewels ever produced.

(Clockwise from bottom left) a very rare 1925 vase- shaped brooch, a 1934 clip brooch, a segmented bracelet dated 1930, a pair of ear clips circa 1930, an elaborate 1936 necklace with matching 1956 earrings, both belonging to Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor. Image JEWELS DU JOUR/CHRISTIE’S/CARTIER

Highly sumptuous, Cartier’s new jewels were presented as vibrant entanglements of diamond foliage studded with leaves, fruits and fluted berries of intricately carved emeralds, sapphires and rubies. These pieces were practically glowing visions and soon popularly became known as “fruit salad” or “tutti frutti”, terms that perfectly described the richness of the gems. Originally known as Cartier’s Pierres de Couleur (colored stones), the style became colloquially known as “Tutti Frutti” sometime in the 1940s, most likely inspired by Carmen Miranda’s popular Bakelite fruit jewelry and tropical hats. Italian for “all fruits”, it was an appropriate name for multicoloured gemstone jewelry, and while it was considered vulgar in the ’40s, “Tutti Frutti” became so widely used that it was accepted as the style’s official name by the start of the 1970s.

(Clockwise, from bottom left) Linda Porter’s convertible 1935 clip brooch and her famous 1929 bracelet, Evelyn Lauder’s record- breaking 1925 bracelet, an unsigned 1930s jabot brooch that made headlines for it’s globally- scrutinized 2014 auction and Inez Chapin’s 1930s bracelet. Image CHRISTIE’S/JEWELS DU JOUR/CARTERS NEWS AGENCY

Although the term “Tutti Frutti” is still occasionally used in reference to colorful jewelry today, it specifically refers to jewelry composed of rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds. Occasionally enamel, natural pearls, jet or onyx accents were included in the the design, but with any other coloured stone inclusion, the piece would be classified under the term “carved stone”. The only exception to this rule is the conch pearl, enamel and diamond Tutti Frutti bracelet made for Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain in the 1920s. An exceptional piece, it’s only colour comes from the pink of the conch pearls and black enamel accents.

Compare: (descending, from top) a 1928 foral- patterned bracelet, a rare 1929 link bracelet, a 1933 bracelet and Queen Victoria Eugenia’s late 1920’s bracelet. Notice the floral pattern remains relatively similar throughout the array with the only major difference being the subdued colour palette of Her Majesty’s piece. The fruiting vine central motif is shared with other highly chromatic ‘tutti frutti’ bracelets designed in the company’s workshops throughout the 1920s and ’30s. Image CHRISTIES/1STDIBS

These jewels reflected the pursuit of the exotic that so captivated the sophisticated European and American collectors of the 1920’s and 1930’s. From the very beginning this new style was a hit with all the fashionable ladies of the day. Avid customers snapped up ear clips, necklaces, brooches, barrettes, powder cases, lapel pins and many other items in the style (there’s even a Tutti Frutti tiara that belonged to Countess Edwina Mountbatten), but bracelets were undoubtedly the most popular items… practically every major jewelry lover had at least one Tutti Frutti bracelet in their collection.

(Clockwise, from left) a 1929 watch, an enamelled 1925 vanity case, a 1925 hair slide and an undated 1930’s platinum money clip. Images SOTHEBY’S/DOVER ANTIQUES/CHRISTIE’S/1STDIBS

However Cartier’s most famous Tutti Frutti jewel is the impressive Collier Hindou necklace created for (eternally stylish) socialite Daisy Fellowes in 1936. Based off the design of a necklace made for the Maharajah of Patna in 1935, this piece took the form of an elaborate bib done in the traditional Indian style. Very similar to the Maharajah’s piece, which incorporated old- cut diamonds, carved rubies and emeralds, the Collier Hindou was a knot of twisted diamond vines studded with emerald leaves and berries of ruby and sapphire. An unlucky stone in Indian tradition, sapphires were obviously not used in the Maharajah’s collar, but this necklace used them in excess, with borders of sapphire beads along the top and bottom edges and an additional fringe of thirteen faceted stones suspended along the front. Originally fastened on a cord of Indian silk, the necklace could be adjusted to be worn at varying lengths along the neck, but this feature was changed in 1963 when Ms. Fellowes’s daughter Emmeline de Casteja had the strings replaced by a continuation of the necklace’s jewelled motif.

The working drawing and detail sketches of the Collair Hindou, along with an archive photograph of the original 1936 piece (top right). Image CARTIER

The Collier Hindou, with a matching pair of carved emerald and diamond earrings, surfaced at auction at Sotheby’s in Geneva in 1991, and was purchased by Cartier for it’s private collection. Sold for $2,655,172.00, the sale set a record price for Cartier’s Tutti Frutti jewels and a price trend that has held on to this very day. Tutti Frutti pieces frequently set records at auction, often surpassing their pre- sale estimates four times over, with bracelet prices exceeding $1 and $2 million mark for notable pieces. Christie’s London has set records twice in the past five years with the sale of two Tutti Frutti bracelets, one going for $1.9 million in 2011 and another for $2.1 million in 2013, while Evelyn Lauder’s famous piece went for over $2.4 million at Sotheby’s in 2014.

The Collair Hindou and a pair of matching earrings (mid- late 1930’s), as it appeared for sale in 1991. Image SOTHEBY’S/CARTIER

Tutti Frutti jewels are at the pinnacle of style, and are so highly valued by jewelry collectors that even tiny brooches in small auctions draw both worldwide interest and bidders. This distinctive style, with its combination of colors and materials, makes these jewels both objects of wonder as well as a vital part of the history of jewelry. They are lavish displays of Cartier’s most emblematic motifs and a lasting symbol of the firm’s ingenuity in design, exploratory spirit and exemplary craftsmanship. These coveted jewels will undoubtedly continue to command worldwide admiration for many years to come.

Xx – Ana

Friday Fierceness!

“Beau les Maillots (Beautiful Swimsuits)”- Elle France June 2016

Swimsuit: Hermès, Jewelry: Dior Joaillerie, Dodo, Cartier. Image ELLE FRANCE/DAVID BELLEMERE

Don’t you just love these traditional Elle France Summer spreads?

Model: Toni Garrn
Photographer: David Bellemere
Stylist: Hortense Manga
Hair: Ward Stegerhoek
Makeup: Tatsu Yamanaka

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

Aah summer… hot days and even hotter nights, where multiple layers become almost non existent and everyone begins looking for the nearest beach, lake or cocktail. Luckily, summer style (or everyday style if you’re from the Caribbean like me) is easy to achieve- lightweight fabrics, great fit and accessories, and the confidence of knowing you look damn good. These people get it.

Milan. Everything about this is great, but the attitude of that basically unbuttoned linen shirt pulls it all together. Admittedly, I walk around like this pretty often. Image – vogue.com

New York. Again, attitude- she looks amazing and knows it. And talk about a great pair of oversized gold aviators! Image – style.com

Let’s recognize some who know just how to do it- it’s time for this week’s street style!

London. A dark on dark look is my go- to for openings, dinners and club nights that are a little more formal but not dressy. Not a huge fan of the pant length, but this guy looks really cool. Image- iamalexfinch.net

Not sure of the location, but this is a summertime look that’s great for anywhere. The high rolled sleeves make it both stylish and cool.
Image – pinterest.com

Paris. Head to toe amazing and another overall dark outfit. Look at the fit of her pants and color juxtapositions of her cool moss green shoes and tan sunglasses. This woman looks great! Image – styledumonde.com

New York. A simple, basically color-blocked outfit that’s proportioned so well and carried off effortlessly. Image – thesartorialist.com

My best,

Estevan

Friday Fierceness!

“¡Azucar!”- Vogue México y Latinoamérica June 2016

On her- bolero, skirt, jewelry: Oscar de la Renta, on him– jeans: Frame Denim, tank top: American Apparel. Image VOCUE MÉXICO Y LATINOAMÉRICA/ALVARO BEAMUD CORTES

Model: Cora Emmanuel, Javier And Amed Gonzalez
Photographer: Alvaro Beamud Cortes
Stylist: Marina Gallo
Hair: Lorenzo Barcella
MakeUp: Luciano Chiarello

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

David Gandy in London, June 2015. Image – Kisskissfashions.com

Street style. Even the name sounds cool. Very “now”, it’s a part of fashion that I’ve always been drawn to. Don’t get me wrong- a well orchestrated, styled and photographed campaign is life, but a great street style look is just… fun.

New York, spring 2016. Image – kisskissfashion.com

New York, May 2016. Image – Men’s Style Blog.

Maybe it’s because what we’re seeing is a look pulled together entirely through the wearer’s taste, not the very edited and focused selections of a label or editorial. Maybe because it’s nice to see a full range of looks- from amazing and individual to downright frumpy. Maybe it’s just fun to see how the stylish people of the world dress! Whatever the reason, street style is a great and very accessible part of fashion.

Stockholm, spring 2016. Image – stylecaster.com

New York, May 2016. Image – Men’s Style Blog.

In this column, I’ll be highlighting some internationally stylish ladies and gents; folks who’ve put that little extra polish on a look and are carrying it off right. The streets are their catwalk, and they’ve shown up to show out.

New York, spring 2016. Image – vogue.com

Paris, spring 2016. Image – kisskissfashion.com

On a personal note, it’s great to be back. Expect to hear from me a lot more!

Till then, may you all be full of

My best,

Estevan

Jewel of the Month

La Peregrina- A natural pearl, diamond, ruby and cultured pearl necklace by Cartier

La Peregrina necklace by Cartier, 1972, and a close- up of the famous pearl. Image THE JEWELLERY EDITOR

As jewels are my first love and jewelry collecting has long been a pastime of my family, I’ve always loved researching gems and jewelry making. Therefore, I’ve decided to share the glitz by bringing some of the world’s most fabulous jewels in a monthly feature on the blog. To start things off, join me in appreciating one of the world’s most fabled and famous pearls, the unparalleled, La Peregrina!

La Peregrina suspended on a seed pearl and platinum chain necklace, the original setting on which Richard Burton purchased it in 1969. Image CHRISTIE’S AUCTION HOUSE

Currently dangling from a necklace co-designed in 1972 by Elizabeth Taylor and Al Durante of Cartier, La Peregrina necklace is a two- strand choker comprising of fifty-six natural pearls and four cultured pearls, intersected by eight ‘flame motif’ stations of circular-cut diamonds and cushion-cut rubies set in platinum and gold. Suspended from the necklace hangs detachable links- a pearl and a ruby, a large ‘flame motif’ gold station set with old mine and rose- cut diamonds with a large pear- shaped ruby, and finally, La Peregrina. This pearl pendant is a natural teardrop shaped pearl weighing approximately 50.06 carats (202.24 grains) and measuring approximately 17.35 – 17.90 x 25.50 mm. The pearl is entirely detachable, allowing the choker- length necklace to be worn on it’s own, the ruby pendant station to be worn as a brooch and La Peregrina can be worn either with this setting, or as a pendant for a seed pearl and platinum necklace that accompanied the set.

La Peregrina necklace by Cartier, shown is the original design drawing by Al Durante, with notes by Elizabeth Taylor in red (left), and the finished work, photographed by the jeweler. Images CARTIER ARCHIVES

One of the most storied pearls in the world, the name La Peregrina translates to “The Pilgrim” or “The Wanderer”, and is a gem with over 500 years of recorded Royal history. First recorded in the mid- 16th century, it was the largest pearl then discovered at that time and remains one of the largest perfectly- symmetrical pear- shaped pearls in the world.

La Peregrina in all it’s dazzling splendour on display in Christie’s Auction House. Image CHRISTIE’S AUCTION HOUSE

Found off the cost of Santa Margarita in the Gulf of Panama, La Peregrina was carried to Spain by the conquistador Vasco Núñez de Balboa and gifted to the Spanish King Ferdinand V. It remained a part of the Spanish Crown jewels for over a century until King Phillip II presented it to his bride Mary I of England, on their wedding day.

Mary I of England (Mary Tudor), by Hans Eworth, 1554, wearing La Peregrina as the hanging pendant of her elaborate brooch/pendant. Image NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY LONDON

Queen Mary had the pearl set as a pendant to a brooch and wore it often in many famous portraits. After her death in 1558, La Peregrina was returned to the Crown of Spain, where it remained as part of the Crown jewelry for the next 250 years. It was a favourite ornament of many Spanish queens, particularly Anna of Austria (second wife of Phillip II), Margaret of Austria (wife of Philip III) and Queens Élizabeth of France and Mariana of Austria, the wives of Philip IV. It appears in many Spanish royal portraits, and it’s image appears in some of the most cherished paintings of the world’s finest museums- particularly Spain’s Museo National del Prado.

Four famous Spanish Queens who loved La Peregrina (clockwise, from top left) Anna of Austria by Alonso Sánchez Coello, 1571 (La Peregrina is worn as a pendant on a pearl necklace), Margaret of Austria by Juan Pantoja de la Cruz, 1606 (wearing La Peregrina as a brooch pendant), Élisabeth of France by Diego Velázquez, 1635 (La Peregrina is worn as a pendant on a bejewelled stomacher) and Mariana of Austria by Diego Velázquez, 1649 (wearing La Peregrina as a pendant on a hair ornament). Images KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM VIENNA/MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS HOUSTON/MUSEO DEL PRADO/FINE ARTS MUSEUM OF SAN FRANSISCO

La Peregrina became part of the jewels of the French Bonaparte ‘Royal’ family in 1808 when Joseph Bonaparte was installed by his brother as king of Spain. It remained in Spain during the five years of Bonaparte’s rule until he returned to France after the Battle of Vitoria with part of the Spanish Crown Jewels. Napoleon III inherited the pearl after his uncle’s death, but was forced to sell it to the Marquis of Albercorn in 1848 after falling into financial difficulties.

The Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III, by Franz Xaver Winterhalter, 1854, wearing La Peregrina as an earring. Image METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF NEW YORK

After this, little is known about the pearl’s history until it was sold at auction by Parke-Bernet Galleries in New York in 1969 to Richard Burton, who bought it as a Valentine’s Day present for his wife, iconic actress Elizabeth Taylor. La Peregrina was set as a pearl pendant in 1972 by Cartier’s Al Durante and suspended from the stunning Cartier necklace. Prior to this, La Peregrina was worn as a brooch, a pendant on a necklace, the centerpiece of a necklace and as a hat ornament.

Elizabeth Taylor wearing La Peregrina on the set of Anne of the Thousand Days in 1969 (left), she is wearing the pearl on the original setting purchased by Richard Burton, and in 1997, wearing the Cartier necklace in a photoshoot for Arts & Antiques Magazine. Images UNIVERSAL STUDIOS/FRED WARD

La Peregrina remained with Elizabeth Taylor until her death in March 2011. It was then sold at auction (mounted on the Cartier necklace) as part of her private jewelry collection for the record price of more than $11 million (£7.1m). It was purchased by an anonymous buyer.

What a fittingly adventurous story for such an amazing gem.

Xx – Ana