Showing for the first time in New York Fashion Week, Albert Kriemler’s newest Akris collection was a bright offering of fresh and colorful clothes with a perceptible Manhattan twist. Akris collections are often informed by art and architecture, but this show was dedicated to artist Carmen Herrera, whom Mr. Kriemler met for the first time earlier this year. She gave her blessing for the designer to use her paintings as a direct reference point, and her 1959 painting Blanco y Verde was chosen to set the tone for the collection’s neat geometric lines, patterns and bold colour scheme.
It was a terrific show- starting from the houses’ core of impeccable fabrics and luxury sportswear, Mr. Kriemler focused on clean shapes and intense colour. Orange, cobalt blue, red, pink, brown, black and white appeared alongside striped white-and-green looks derived directly from Ms. Herrera’s artwork. The colourful geometries of her paintings made for eye-catching motifs on shifts and shirtdresses and served as inspiration for breezy, away-from-the-body silhouettes that echoed those shapes.
Appearing alongside the houses’ intricate St. Gallen lace, as well as plain linens, cotton, silk and suede, these graphic prints and interesting shapes appeared even more precise, tempered by the relaxed shapes and muted colours of the subtler fabrics. Every silhouette was clean cut and airy, with soft drapery and pleats, all in loose breathable cuts that skimmed the body to great effect.
This resulted in a lineup of minimalist, easygoing pieces with crisp sporty lines and polished youthful pep; a look that perfectly reflected the spirit and verve of The City itself, and is sure to resonate with the sophisticated tastes of Akris’ loyal customers. This was one of Akris’ best collections to date… and one of the best shows that took place during New York Fashion Week.
Our favourites: a dun- coloured suede blouse with a built in shawl neck of nappa leather, a white linen jacket with a single green lapel, an angular cobalt blue shiftdress, a cream linen button- front tunic, a button- front blouse in patterned dark tan burnout suede, an orange patterned burnout suede column dress, a long deep green silk coat and a boxy shiftdress with a green and white striped border.
Xx – Ana