Delpozo shows are always beautiful. Creative director Josep Font is a designer whose work goes beyond the conventions of normal fashion, with designs that always go beyond fashion and into the world of art. This time, he created some of the most intriguing and unique garments to ever be shown during the course of Fashion Month.
This season’s collection, named Luminosity, was an exploration of light and form. The show was simply spectacular.
Influenced by the work of Impressionist Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (the “master of light”) and contemporary artist Soo Sunny Park, Mr. Font stated that his primary focus for this collection was the study of lightness and transparency. The former’s luminous paintings of the Mediterranean Sea inspired the unique shade of deep “Sorolla” blue that was used throughout the opening looks, while the latter’s mesmerizing Unwoven Light series of shimmering Plexiglass and mesh sculptures influenced the voluminous, organic shapes of so many of the looks. He sculpted some fantastic garments in the process, communicating his ideas through crisp silhouettes, airy textures, shining embellishments and light fabrics.
Mr. Font’s silhouettes often extend themselves away from the body in large sweeping arcs, curves, or folds, making this season’s shapes very geometric- but with an organic twist. Straight skirts and bodices often erupted into voluminous curved flounces and hems that evoked the look of blooming flowers, angular origami pleats, crisp bows and sharp hems that resembled jagged calla lily petals. Soft fabrics like metallic fil coupé and light linen, were draped and ruffled to create the look of folding petals, and crocheted overlays, raffia fringes and textured knits gave a rough, organic effect to some of the looks. Elsewhere, 3-d floral embellishments were used to great effect on tulle to create the look of falling flowers floating in the breeze, while adding graphic impact to geometric shapes crafted out of heavy silk.
Gorgeous floral- printed metallic jacquard and bright splashes of orange and pink added colourful impact to a collection that was filled soft shades of periwinkle blue, lavender, pale yellow and white. However these vivid additions were kept from being too overpowering, often appearing tempered by panels of white organza or peeking out from beneath sheer tulle overlays.
Mr. Font’s use of colour, texture and transparency throughout this collection is masterful. Even with all the large shapes, layered fabrics, prints and colours, every piece he created managed to convey a sense of weightlessness, and the fabrics still looked airy even when heavily adorned. This was true fantasy fashion, more dream than prêt-à-couture, and most of the garments looked as if they had appeared out of a fairy tail or fabulous fantasy art.
It’s a hard collection for most people to pull off, but for those with the bearing, and the ability to style them correctly, wearing anything from this collection would be stunning. I’d actually love to see a bride wear some of these garments- whole looks- like the two skirt combinations and the last gown listed below, or the white trousers and blouse with the blue and white raffia swirl at the front, or really any of the pale- coloured looks. Anything would be fabulous! That would be gorgeous wedding attire!
Our favourites: a bright pink coat with flounced bell sleeves, an embellished orange dress with a gauzy waterfall skirt, a formal white look with a beaded tunic and a midi- length fluted skirt with a flounced hem, a periwinkle fil coupé blouse with a draped neckline and a folded waist, white linen skirtsuit with a flounced bell- sleeved jacket, a white fil coupé jacket with a large front ruffle, a blue and white tulle gown with an embellished peplum, a pleated striped orange and white blouse with a waterfall back and a white gown with a winged bodice and a sheer tulle skirt over a patterned underskirt.
Xx – Ana