Women’s designers taking inspiration from menswear is a for decades old custom, and this season Francesco Scognamiglio
provided his own take on this theme with a collection that was based around the look of boxy men’s shirts. Supplemented by his ongoing love of flimsy lingerie, intricate adornments, and childhood memories of pierrots and giant soap bubbles, Mr. Scognamiglio crafted a beautiful collection that added new dimensions to a well known design trope.
This vision may sound strange in print, and some of his references (especially the last two) may be hard to spot at first glance, but Mr. Scognamiglio navigated his way through his vision with is usual aplomb, creating a beautifully cohesive collection.
He played with lengths and construction, cropping crisp shirts above the waist or extending them to the length of a microdress. He added crystal embroideries and sheer panels, or constructed them entirely from transparent net and paired them with tiny lace shorts and silk miniskirts. He pushed the masculine look further with boxy sweaters and shawl- necked wool jackets, trim suits, and outsized bomber jackets, but kept them from appearing too harsh with sparkling appliqués, fringed piping, and luxury fabrics like point d’esprit tulle and metallic watercolour jacquard.
There were plenty of dresses as well: short ones with plunging necklines and cut away shoulders, longer numbers with prim collars, long sleeves and modest hemlines and even ones that were entirely of sheer net. Lace panels, ruffles and gorgeous pearl beading made for pretty, feminine looks that would appeal to any woman with a love of luxury.
Our favourites: a white draped minidress with cutaway shoulders and bell sleeves, a grey sweater with silver crystal appliqués, a sheer white dress with a black lace skirt and pearl embellishment, a white shawl neck jacket with silver embroidery, a white high collared shirtdress with a tulle- lined cutout and an embroidered neckline, a multicoloured jacquard opera coat, a sheer white button- front shirt with pearl adornments, a cropped white sweater with crystal appliqués and a sheer white skirt with a black lace panel and pearl embroidery.