Sparkle, sequins, metallics, and even gold- tipped feathers ran a festive-looking thread thread throughout Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art collection, the brand’s sixth and final runway show of 2016.
Called Paris Cosmopolite the collection was inspired by all the glitz and glamour of Paris’ Hôtel Ritz, or rather “the evening dresses that women used to wear to dine at the Ritz” (which has just been given a fabulous facelift by the way). To Mr.Lagerfeld, The Ritz is “the cosmopolitan spot par excellence”, a place that buzzes with life, glamour and joie de vivre- qualities that every one of his Chanel offerings have maintained… it makes sense that he would focus on these particular feelings to excess throughout the collection.
“The Ritz is very gilded. Look, white with gold!” Karl Lagerfeld remarked after the show, gesturing at the lobby’s décor from his throne of a plush velvet couch. Maison Chanel has had a long history with the hotel, Madameoselle Coco famously lived there for 35 years, and the Chanel’s atelier are literally steps away from it’s back door. However, despite this famous connection, Mr. Lagerfeld emphasized that this offering was not based on Mademoselle Chanel herself, but the elegance of the hotel and its fabulous patrons who have visited throughout the years. “[There are] people from all over the world who’ve come to the Ritz. There were hundreds of dinners in the ’20s and ’30s, where women wore incredible things.”
And he truly produced some incredible things!
Everything sparkled- almost every look was covered with some sort of glimmering adornment, and Mr. Lagerfeld piled on even more shine with metallic fabrics and glossy leather inserts. He based the majority of his looks in black and white, with deep tones of rose and dusty blue, and girly shades of blush and metallic silvery- lavender adding richly coloured accents.
It was all gorgeous: beaded jackets, embellished blouses, capri trousers covered in sequins, crystal- encrusted evening gowns with gold embroidery and feathered trims…showstopping things that showed off the work of Chanel’s ateliers to best effect. Glammed- up versions of Chanel classics appeared as well: tweeds that dissolved into trailing fringe, slim tweed suits covered in glimmering trim, and bouclé jackets shot through with gold and embellished with pearls, tweed roses, floral embroidery and gilded Plexiglass buttons.
Plainer items like relaxed knits, tweed coats, leather trousers and sleek pantsuits were no less impressive. Their trim Parisian silhouettes and immaculate construction gave them a classic look and offered a refreshing interlude from all the glamour. A little modernity was added here and there in the form of outsized knitted cardigans, sleek knitted slipdresses, embellished crop tops and even a silky black puffer jacket- the perfect thing to wear when it’s just starting to get very cold.
It was a great collection. Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art offering was a beautifully vibrant, elegant and glamourous ode to The Ritz and it’s fabulous aura. IT was also one of the house’s most polished collections in years. Mr. Lagerfeld hit every right note and it’s bound to be an offering that resonates well with loyal brand followers and new customers.
Our favourites: a black and white tweed jacket with black leather sleeves and a draped shawl neckline, a black leather jacket with cape sleeves, a puffy white waffle- knitted coat, a gold leather jacket and matching trousers, a fringed black and white tweed coat with a matching scarf, a black tweed jacket with multicoloured fringe, a long beaded black evening jacket with a matching embellished sweater and pair of embellished trousers, a black tweed skirt suit with multicoloured beaded embellishments, an embellished black evening dress with an ostrich feather skirt, a knitted metallic silver slipdress, an outsized pink waffle- knitted cardigan, fringed gold tweed dress with a pink tapestry bodice, a black evening jacket with multicoloured sequin embroidery, an embellished gold evening gown with a gold feathered skirt, two white evening suits with floral appliqués, pearl beading and gold embroidery, a red tweed overcoat, a white skirt suit with whip- stitched detailing, a gold pailette- embellished ensemble with a cropped blouse and long skirt and a black velvet evening jacket with a matching bow- embellished organza skirt.