The beautiful kitsch of Dolce & Gabbana’s Fall 2017 Menswear

I’ve been a lifelong fan of Dolce & Gabbana… my folks dressed me in it as a child and it’s among the first labels I remember buying when I started shopping for myself. Their clothes all fit so well and last forever, the excess of embellishment juxtaposing clean, modern silhouettes is exactly my taste and, well, their ad’s are always on point. Furthermore, as a lover of the type of romanticized history the brand bases it’s designs on, I don’t think I’m going to be jumping ship anytime soon.

Following several seasons of in-depth explorations of traditional Italian themes, the Fall 2017 “The New Princes” collection was a slightly more toned down continuation of their recent offerings. Featuring fall’s darker colours, beautifully crafted embellishment and a level of comical kitsch that was on the verge of being too much- but wasn’t. With over 100 looks covering everything from formal, lounge and sportswear to stuffed animal backpacks and embroidered heraldic beasts, there was something for every taste. It was a playful offering, sure to bring out the child in any man.

The overwhelming media attention has focused on the show’s models- superstar millennials Cameron Dallas, Tinie Tempah, Chen Xue Dong, the Stallone sisters, Sofia Richie and others walked among a sprinkling of actual (super)models Lucky Blue Smith, Oliver Cheshire, Aurelien Muller and the like, but for me, the clothes stole the show. True- a good model is entertaining and a star like Naomi Campbell can leave a viewer awestruck, but I look at runway shows so I can see what I want to buy. So, that’s what we’ll be focusing on here.

First of all, I love the embellished metallic suits and coats. The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria fall 2015 show premiered a literal suit of gold that closed the show in every sense, but this season’s less embellished versions were no less showstopping. The gold, blue and black jacquard suit worn by Tinie Tempah, a gold and red patterned three piece and another in black velvet covered with small golden crowns were my favourites, but really, I like them all. A beautifully tailored gold and black overcoat shown over pinstriped pants and red velvet slippers was another favourite, as was a bronze, gold and black Asian-inspired paisley patterned suit. Yes, they’re not really for regular wear, but I’d definitely wear them to all sorts of parties and club nights as shown, or with other clothing.

Even the darkest non-glittery suits and outerwear were cut of uber luxurious fabrics and were so well tailored that they definitely deserve mention- Cameron Dallas’ show opening deep purple and black number, another of black embriodery, Lucky Blue’s heavy wool coat and all of the looks sent out for the show’s final walk.

Embellished sweaters were another highlight and were definitely where a lot of the show’s kitsch showed up. All manner of snarling beast, heraldic symbols, skeletons, crowned cartoon faces, a ferocious bear sweater with one furry arm and more strutted down the catwalk in Milan. To many, it’s a lot. To me- perfect! I love all the early Renaissance looking animals, Barberini gold bees and endless crowns. Even the pop art caricatures of Domenico and Stefano that were added to a button down jacket were great. True, the stuffed toy looking backpacks and hoodie were too much- and you won’t see them here, but I didn’t mind them on the runway. Though this is coming from someone with closets full of just as kitsch-y clothes, I think Dolce & Gabbana straddled the playful line perfectly.

Printed polo and silk shirts and black ruffle-fronted shirts were also outstanding and beautifully carried the Renaissance theme. The ruffled shirts were mostly shown with embellished suits and somehow didn’t at all seem out of place.

Then there were some pieces that didn’t really fit in, but I very much liked. First was a camel coat that was beautifully tailored and had a pair of embroidered knights in a square off on the chest. The length and fit on this are exceptional. Then there was a beautiful gold edged, oversized black wool tunic that has an intricate coat of arms on the front and wine red quilted lining that I will DEFINITELY be getting. It was shown over a red velvet hoodie with grey pants and looked extremely comfortable. Finally the brilliant yellow blazer and brocade, lion embroidered bomber jacket stood out among the darker shades of the rest of the collection and were definite high points. As were the pants with armor shaped fabric additions at the ankle that were shown in many colours and fabrics throughout the lineup.

Finally, you can’t talk about Dolce & Gabbana and not mention the shoes and accessories. Let’s just say I like all. Shoe wise, the label’s coveted velvet slippers were in full force and were all beautifully detailed, but the simplest boots and formal shoes were just as good. I wish they had sent a good pair of slim toe-d oxfords down the runway because I’m not a fan of boxy, rounded shoes, but even these were of obviously excellent quality. The jewelry and bags shown (minus the animal ones) were great too, and of special note was the style and number of slim bowties that appeared.

Style wise, multiple signet rings and layers of chains turned the models into modern princes and are very easy additions that bring that catwalk style into your personal wardrobe. I’ve been rocking exactly that look for years, but I think I’m going to add a few more. Dolce & Gabbana is all about that lux, so head to toe, the models exuded wealth and a certain polished joie de vivre.

It was great.

Image credits: cover photo- Dolce & Gabbana’s official Instagram page, all others via Vogue.com

My best,

Estevan

We Love: Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Sparkle, sequins, metallics, and even gold- tipped feathers ran a festive-looking thread thread throughout Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art collection, the brand’s sixth and final runway show of 2016.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Called Paris Cosmopolite the collection was inspired by all the glitz and glamour of Paris’ Hôtel Ritz, or rather “the evening dresses that women used to wear to dine at the Ritz” (which has just been given a fabulous facelift by the way). To Mr.Lagerfeld, The Ritz is “the cosmopolitan spot par excellence”, a place that buzzes with life, glamour and joie de vivre- qualities that every one of his Chanel offerings have maintained… it makes sense that he would focus on these particular feelings to excess throughout the collection.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

“The Ritz is very gilded. Look, white with gold!” Karl Lagerfeld remarked after the show, gesturing at the lobby’s décor from his throne of a plush velvet couch. Maison Chanel has had a long history with the hotel, Madameoselle Coco famously lived there for 35 years, and the Chanel’s atelier are literally steps away from it’s back door. However, despite this famous connection, Mr. Lagerfeld emphasized that this offering was not based on Mademoselle Chanel herself, but the elegance of the hotel and its fabulous patrons who have visited throughout the years. “[There are] people from all over the world who’ve come to the Ritz. There were hundreds of dinners in the ’20s and ’30s, where women wore incredible things.”

And he truly produced some incredible things!

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Everything sparkled- almost every look was covered with some sort of glimmering adornment, and Mr. Lagerfeld piled on even more shine with metallic fabrics and glossy leather inserts. He based the majority of his looks in black and white, with deep tones of rose and dusty blue, and girly shades of blush and metallic silvery- lavender adding richly coloured accents.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

It was all gorgeous: beaded jackets, embellished blouses, capri trousers covered in sequins, crystal- encrusted evening gowns with gold embroidery and feathered trims…showstopping things that showed off the work of Chanel’s ateliers to best effect. Glammed- up versions of Chanel classics appeared as well: tweeds that dissolved into trailing fringe, slim tweed suits covered in glimmering trim, and bouclé jackets shot through with gold and embellished with pearls, tweed roses, floral embroidery and gilded Plexiglass buttons.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Plainer items like relaxed knits, tweed coats, leather trousers and sleek pantsuits were no less impressive. Their trim Parisian silhouettes and immaculate construction gave them a classic look and offered a refreshing interlude from all the glamour. A little modernity was added here and there in the form of outsized knitted cardigans, sleek knitted slipdresses, embellished crop tops and even a silky black puffer jacket- the perfect thing to wear when it’s just starting to get very cold.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

It was a great collection. Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art offering was a beautifully vibrant, elegant and glamourous ode to The Ritz and it’s fabulous aura. IT was also one of the house’s most polished collections in years. Mr. Lagerfeld hit every right note and it’s bound to be an offering that resonates well with loyal brand followers and new customers.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Our favourites: a black and white tweed jacket with black leather sleeves and a draped shawl neckline, a black leather jacket with cape sleeves, a puffy white waffle- knitted coat, a gold leather jacket and matching trousers, a fringed black and white tweed coat with a matching scarf, a black tweed jacket with multicoloured fringe, a long beaded black evening jacket with a matching embellished sweater and pair of embellished trousers, a black tweed skirt suit with multicoloured beaded embellishments, an embellished black evening dress with an ostrich feather skirt, a knitted metallic silver slipdress, an outsized pink waffle- knitted cardigan, fringed gold tweed dress with a pink tapestry bodice, a black evening jacket with multicoloured sequin embroidery, an embellished gold evening gown with a gold feathered skirt, two white evening suits with floral appliqués, pearl beading and gold embroidery, a red tweed overcoat, a white skirt suit with whip- stitched detailing, a gold pailette- embellished ensemble with a cropped blouse and long skirt and a black velvet evening jacket with a matching bow- embellished organza skirt.

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d'Art 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Get Ready for a Green 2017

Greenery- Pantone 15-0343.  Image PANTONE

Greenery- Pantone 15-0343. Image PANTONE

On December 8th 2016, Pantone released its Color of the Year for 2017. it’s a colour that’s meant to influence all facets of design for the following year, including fashion, jewelry, architecture, electronics, interior décor, et cetera.

Greenery- Pantone 15-0343- is the lucky colour slated to be seen everywhere this year, an invigoratingly bright shade of yellow- green that “evokes the first days of spring when nature’s greens revive, restore and renew… Greenery signals consumers to take a deep breath, oxygenate and reinvigorate.” It’s the colour of all things springtime, a truly lovely shade.

I’ve no doubts that we’ll be seeing Greenery everywhere in fashion this year, especially given it’s frequent appearance all over the runways for the past few seasons. I’m excited to see how designers incorporate it into their collections.

Greenery- Pantone 15-0343.  Image PANTONE

Greenery- Pantone 15-0343. Image PANTONE

Even if bright green garments don’t fit your style, it’s an easy colour to incorporate into your wardrobe using green hued accessories, jewelry and makeup. Vividly bright and eyecatching, it’s a colour that will add pep to everyday outfits, and because it’s so striking, it takes only the smallest touch of green to create a memorable outfit. For instance I love black and the darker shades of blue, charcoal and grey- often going for days in dark looks. But my favourite accessories to add are either a pair of beautiful emerald and yellow gold solitaire earrings or another of giant peridot and white gold solitaires (that I just realized are very close to the Pantone colour!). Though they’re different shades, the green of the stones seems to glow even in the dimmest light and is the perfect touch of colour.

Here’s some Greenery inspiration to get you in the mood!

Vionnet F/w 2014  Image VOGUE.COM

Vionnet F/w 2014. Image VOGUE.COM

Oscar de la Renta S/s 2015 (both looks on left), Jeremy Scott's S/s 2016 (both looks on right).  Image VOGUE.COM/BUSINESSOFFASHION

Oscar de la Renta S/s 2015 (both looks on left), Jeremy Scott’s S/s 2016 (both looks on left). Image VOGUE.COM/BUSINESSOFFASHION

Jasper Conran S/S 2017 (far left, centre left), Gucci Resort 2016 (centre right), Gucci F/W 2017 (far right). Image VOGUE UK/VOGUE/COM

Jasper Conran S/S 2017 (far left, centre left), Gucci Resort 2016 (centre right), Gucci F/W 2017 (far right). Image VOGUE UK/VOGUE/COM

Emilio Pucci S/s 2017.  Image VOGUE.COM

Emilio Pucci S/s 2017. Image VOGUE.COM

Accessories are the perfect thing to add punch to your outfit, especially if you're not drawn to lime green garments: (clockwise from centre left) Judith Leiber 'Born Whilst Travelling' Camel Crystal Pavé Minaudière, Moschino Fluo Green Logo, Prada Patent Leather Belt, Dior 'Lady Dior' Mini bag, vintage Hermès Birkin bag, Charlotte Olympia Cirtus Clutch, Jimmy Choo Anouk Patent Leather Pointy Toe Pumps, Kat Maconie Abigail Neon Platforms, Charlotte Olympia Neon Edith Sandal, Jimmy Choo Varia Colorblock Patent Slingback Pump. Image BERGDORFGOODMAN.COM/NEIMANMARCUS.COM/LYST.COM/KATMACONIE.COM/ENDOURCE.COM

Accessories are the perfect thing to add punch to your outfit, especially if you’re not drawn to lime green garments: (clockwise from centre left) Judith Leiber ‘Born Whilst Travelling’ Camel Crystal Pavé Minaudière, Moschino Fluo Green Logo, Prada Patent Leather Belt, Dior ‘Lady Dior’ mini bag, vintage Hermes Birkin bag, Charlotte Olympia Cirtus Clutch, Jimmy Choo Anouk Patent Leather Pointy Toe Pumps, Kat Maconie Abigail Neon Platforms, Charlotte Olympia Neon Edith Sandal, Jimmy Choo Varia Colorblock Patent Slingback Pump. Image BERGDORFGOODMAN.COM/NEIMANMARCUS.COM/LYST.COM/KATMACONIE.COM/ENDOURCE.COM

Smaller accessories: (clockwise, from top left) Versace Butterfly Barocco silk scarf, Dolce & Gabbana Lime Aqua Panther Print cotton scarf, Sonia Rykiel pear green fur scarf, Fratelli Orsini fur cuff leather gloves, Fendi Alphabet iPhone 6 case, Dolce & Gabbana Verde Leopard iPhone case, Prada Postcard sunglasses, Gucci Green Mirrored square sunglasses, Fendi Pom Pom and Alphabet fur handbag charm.  Image LYST.COM/FASHIONPILE.COM/PRETAVOIR.CO.UK/PRET-A-BEAUTE.COM/MODAOPERENDI.COM/COMOMILANO.COM/iKRIX.COM

Smaller accessories: (clockwise, from top left) Versace Butterfly Barocco silk scarf, Dolce & Gabbana Lime Aqua Panther Print cotton scarf, Sonia Rykiel pear green fur scarf, Fratelli Orsini fur cuff leather gloves, Fendi Alphabet iPhone 6 case, Dolce & Gabbana Verde Leopard iPhone case, Prada Postcard sunglasses, Gucci Green Mirrored square sunglasses, Fendi Pom Pom and Alphabet fur handbag charm. Image LYST.COM/FASHIONPILE.COM/PRETAVOIR.CO.UK/PRET-A-BEAUTE.COM/MODAOPERENDI.COM/COMOMILANO.COM/iKRIX.COM

Peridot perfectly matches the zesty, bright colour of Greenery, luckily high end jewelers often feature the vivid stone in their designs. Some fabulous sparklers: (clockwise from centre left): Pomellato Nudo rings in rose gold, Ippolita Lollipop earrings and bracelet in rose gold, a vintage peridot and tanzanite Chanel Haute Joaillerie clover ring in yellow gold, a pair of lacy Plima chandelier earrings, an Ippolita Rock Candy tennis bracelet in rose gold, a pair of Madhouse designs diamond, peridot and tsavorites “Melting Ice” earrings in white gold, a Tiffany & Co. Rainbow Drop lariat necklace in white gold, Theo Fennell diamond and peridot Empress Drop earring sin white gold, Theo Fennell peridot and pink coral Parrot cufflinks in yellow gold, vintage Bulgari Chandra ring in peridot, yellow gold and white ceramic, Elsa Perretti for Tiffany & Co. Open Heart peridot pendant in yellow gold. Images THEJEWELLERYEDITOR.COM/THEOFENNELL.COM/1STDIBS.COM/LUXURY5TH.COM/NEIMANMARCUS.COM

There are plenty of bright green options available for those who prefer fashion jewelry as well: (clockwise, from centre left) Oscar de la Renta resin and enamel Lily pad necklace, Atelier Swarovski by Sandy Powell Leaf necklace, earrings and cuff bracelet, Jonette Jewelry “Lime Slice” pendant necklace, Amrapali x Manish Arora Naho necklace, vintage Hermès enamel cuff, Tribe Amrapali x Manish Arora stud earrings, Neolithic Jewelry resin bangle. Image BERGDOFGOODMAN.COM/CRYSTALBLOG.COM/AMAZON.COM/AMRAPALIJEWELS.COM/1STDIBS.COM/NEOLITHICJEWELRY.COM

Fabulous runway makeup- clockwise from top left: Thierry Mugler S/s 2012, Vivienne Westwood Red Label S/s 2012, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2010, Atelier Versace S/s 2013.  Image VOGUE.COM/WWD

Fabulous runway makeup- clockwise from top left: Thierry Mugler S/s 2012, Vivienne Westwood Red Label S/s 2012, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2010, Atelier Versace S/s 2013. Image VOGUE.COM/WWD

So what do you think? Will you be adding some green to your ensembles?

Xx – Ana

We Love: Delpozo Spring 2017

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo shows are always beautiful. Creative director Josep Font is a designer whose work goes beyond the conventions of normal fashion, with designs that always go beyond fashion and into the world of art. This time, he created some of the most intriguing and unique garments to ever be shown during the course of Fashion Month.

This season’s collection, named Luminosity, was an exploration of light and form. The show was simply spectacular.

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Influenced by the work of Impressionist Joaquín Sorolla y Bastida (the “master of light”) and contemporary artist Soo Sunny Park, Mr. Font stated that his primary focus for this collection was the study of lightness and transparency. The former’s luminous paintings of the Mediterranean Sea inspired the unique shade of deep “Sorolla” blue that was used throughout the opening looks, while the latter’s mesmerizing Unwoven Light series of shimmering Plexiglass and mesh sculptures influenced the voluminous, organic shapes of so many of the looks. He sculpted some fantastic garments in the process, communicating his ideas through crisp silhouettes, airy textures, shining embellishments and light fabrics.

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Mr. Font’s silhouettes often extend themselves away from the body in large sweeping arcs, curves, or folds, making this season’s shapes very geometric- but with an organic twist. Straight skirts and bodices often erupted into voluminous curved flounces and hems that evoked the look of blooming flowers, angular origami pleats, crisp bows and sharp hems that resembled jagged calla lily petals. Soft fabrics like metallic fil coupé and light linen, were draped and ruffled to create the look of folding petals, and crocheted overlays, raffia fringes and textured knits gave a rough, organic effect to some of the looks. Elsewhere, 3-d floral embellishments were used to great effect on tulle to create the look of falling flowers floating in the breeze, while adding graphic impact to geometric shapes crafted out of heavy silk.

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Gorgeous floral- printed metallic jacquard and bright splashes of orange and pink added colourful impact to a collection that was filled soft shades of periwinkle blue, lavender, pale yellow and white. However these vivid additions were kept from being too overpowering, often appearing tempered by panels of white organza or peeking out from beneath sheer tulle overlays.

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Mr. Font’s use of colour, texture and transparency throughout this collection is masterful. Even with all the large shapes, layered fabrics, prints and colours, every piece he created managed to convey a sense of weightlessness, and the fabrics still looked airy even when heavily adorned. This was true fantasy fashion, more dream than prêt-à-couture, and most of the garments looked as if they had appeared out of a fairy tail or fabulous fantasy art.

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

It’s a hard collection for most people to pull off, but for those with the bearing, and the ability to style them correctly, wearing anything from this collection would be stunning. I’d actually love to see a bride wear some of these garments- whole looks- like the two skirt combinations and the last gown listed below, or the white trousers and blouse with the blue and white raffia swirl at the front, or really any of the pale- coloured looks. Anything would be fabulous! That would be gorgeous wedding attire!

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Our favourites: a bright pink coat with flounced bell sleeves, an embellished orange dress with a gauzy waterfall skirt, a formal white look with a beaded tunic and a midi- length fluted skirt with a flounced hem, a periwinkle fil coupé blouse with a draped neckline and a folded waist, white linen skirtsuit with a flounced bell- sleeved jacket, a white fil coupé jacket with a large front ruffle, a blue and white tulle gown with an embellished peplum, a pleated striped orange and white blouse with a waterfall back and a white gown with a winged bodice and a sheer tulle skirt over a patterned underskirt.

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017.  Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Delpozo Spring 2017. Image BUSINESSOFFASHION.COM

Xx – Ana

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

Colourful, comfortable and beautiful, the Paris shows were as cool as these sisters. Also look at their Louis Vuitton bags- they're mini replicas of the label's trunks! Image - harpersbazaar.com

Colourful, comfortable and beautiful, the Paris shows were as cool as these sisters. Also look at their Louis Vuitton bags- they’re mini replicas of the label’s trunks!
Image – harpersbazaar.com

Il est Saunter Trottoir, mode Paris semaine édition! The spring/ summer 2017 shows at the City of Lights have just closed and the fashion world is taking a much deserved (though short) rest. There’s no rest here at Sidewalk Saunter though, because the streets of Paris were aglitter with amazing street style during the shows.

Let’s get right into it!

Olivia Palermo in Valentino. Olivia really came lout to kill for these shows and you'll see her throughout this post. I like all the rich colours she's wearing. Image - harpersbazaar.com

Olivia Palermo in Valentino. Olivia really came lout to kill for these shows and you’ll see her throughout this post. I like all the rich colours she’s wearing.
Image – harpersbazaar.com

Great coat! Look at the tailoring and finishing.  Image - harpersbazaar.com

Great coat! Look at the tailoring and finishing.
Image – harpersbazaar.com

Really like this fella's whole get up, especially his red sweater and slightly oversized coat.  Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

Really like this fella’s whole get up, especially his red sweater and slightly oversized coat.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

She's a showstopper with that bright sweater that looks like a Caribbean summer day, and pleated silver skirt.  Image - harpersbazzar.com

She’s a showstopper with that bright sweater that looks like a Caribbean summer day, and pleated silver skirt.
Image – harpersbazzar.com

Mannn what a great coat and backpack! The aviators are pretty cool too. Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

Mannn what a great coat and backpack! The aviators are pretty cool too.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

I really like the colours in her look. There are really only three- white, black and the orange in the print on her blouse. Her accessories are great too. Image - tumblr.com

I really like the colours in her look. There are really only three- white, black and the orange in the print on her blouse. Her accessories are great too.
Image – tumblr.com

There's something old Hollywood about this beautiful woman with her colour-blocked coat, red lips and blonde waves.  Image - vogue.com

There’s something old Hollywood about this beautiful woman with her colour-blocked coat, red lips and blonde waves.
Image – vogue.com

There's another old Hollywood something about this picture and the dapper gent in it. I really like the whole look and the jaunty hat.  Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

There’s another old Hollywood something about this picture and the dapper gent in it. I really like the whole look and the jaunty hat.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

This girl is everything haha! Love the colour of her pants and her silver jacket, but that shady expression steals the show. Image - harpersbazzar.com

This girl is everything haha! Love the colour of her pants and her silver jacket, but her shady expression steals the show.
Image – harpersbazzar.com

Ok this isn't the best style picture, but I like it and his velvet slippers.  Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

Ok this isn’t the best style picture, but I like it and his velvet slippers.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

Olivia Palermo and her model husband Johannes Heubl both looking dapper, They're kind of matching aren't they. Image - harpersbazzar.com

Olivia Palermo and her model husband Johannes Heubl both looking dapper, They’re kind of matching aren’t they.
Image – harpersbazzar.com

Killing. It. Black and white done right. Her jumper makes her look so tall and the striped ruffled jacket draped on her shoulders makes the look outstanding. Image - harpersbazzar.com

Killing. It. Black and white done right. Her jumper makes her look so tall and the striped ruffled jacket draped on her shoulders makes the look outstanding.
Image – harpersbazzar.com

Who would have thought that paisley and studs would work as well as they do here! What a great jacket! Image - harpersbazzar.com

Who would have thought that paisley and studs would work as well as they do here! What a great jacket!
Image – harpersbazzar.com

I like this guy's sweater! Camel and black always look good together and in this piece, they're really working well. I like his metallic and white Gucci shoes too. Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

I like this guy’s sweater! Camel and black always look good together and in this piece, they’re really working well. I like his metallic and white Gucci shoes too.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

They both look great. I like both of their shoes and the woman's coat. Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

They both look great. I like both of their shoes and the woman’s coat.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

I'm into all the light shades in this guy's look and the quality of his knit sweater. Look at it's neckline.  Image - gq-magazine.co.uk

I’m into all the light shades in this guy’s look and the quality of his knit sweater. Look at it’s neckline.
Image – gq-magazine.co.uk

Ending today with Olivia Palermo looking so great in her black outfit, burgundy fringe bag and cool as hell sunglasses. Olivia wasn't playing at the Paris shows! Image - harpersbazzar.com

Ending today with Olivia Palermo looking so great in her black outfit, burgundy fringe bag and cool as hell sunglasses. Olivia wasn’t playing at the Paris shows!
Image – harpersbazzar.com

My best,

Estevan

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

Sexy day wear at the Milan s/s 2017 shows. Image - Phil Oh for vogue.com

Sexy club wear at the Milan s/s 2017 shows

It’s the end of the S/S 2017 shows in Milan and apart from all of the mesmerizing fashion that has been seen on the runways, the street style has also been amazing! I’ve said before that you can’t beat Italian style for it’s cool sexiness and this fashion week has proved that.

Chiara Ferragni in an amazing sheer Roberto Cavalli gown, showing it off as something so beautiful should be. She looks amazing.
Image - instagram.com

Chiara Ferragni in Roberto Cavalli.
Image – instagram.com

A pair of great jeans and a well fitting blazer really need to be in every man's wardrobe. The off white shirt works perfectly with the blazer's colour, while this gent's accessories complete his look perfectly.  Image - thesartorealist.com

A pair of great jeans and a well fitting blazer really need to be in every man’s wardrobe. The off white shirt works perfectly with the blazer’s colour, while this gent’s accessories complete his look perfectly.
Image – thesartorealist.com

The ladies definitely won the Milan style game and have taken over this week’s Sidewalk Saunter. From fine gowns to sexy club wear, the women of the Milan s/s 2017 wore them all to perfection and provided excellent style sources for women the world over. Yet it’s their day-wear options that really steal the show- look at the fit and all the little touches throughout so many of these women’s looks… so great.

Carlo Sestini Branca in Loro Piana and Zina Charkoplia in Philosophy. Both look great, but Zina's stealing the limelight in her ruffled blue number.  Image - Instagram.com

Carlo Sestini Branca in Loro Piana and Zina Charkoplia in Philosophy. Both look great, but Zina’s stealing the limelight in her ruffled blue number.
Image – Instagram.com

Black and brown are not supposed to be complimentary colours, but this stylish woman shows how wrong that is.  Image - nymag.com

Black and brown are not supposed to be complimentary colours, but this stylish woman shows how wrong that is.
Image – nymag.com

the colours and patterns in this print are so striking, but her fringed cobalt bag is just as stand-out.  Image - elle.com

the colours and patterns in this print are so striking, but her fringed cobalt bag is just as stand-out.
Image – elle.com

Rising supermodel sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid stroll into a show looking flawless. According to Ana, this is how she and our sister Jacqueline stroll anywhere. It's a sister thing... Anyway, Bella's outfit, on that figure, with that attitude, is where it's at. Image - Phil Oh for vogue.com

Rising supermodel sisters Bella and Gigi Hadid stroll into a show looking flawless. According to Ana, this is how she and our sister Jacqueline stroll anywhere. It’s a sister thing… Anyway, Bella’s outfit, on that figure, with that attitude, is where it’s at.
Image – Phil Oh for vogue.com

I really, really like this gent's look. It's comfortable and stylish and the deep colours and modern cuts are easy to wear from day to night. The round sunglasses are pretty hot too.  Image - thesartorealist.com

I really, really like this gent’s look. It’s comfortable and stylish and the deep colours and modern cuts are easy to wear from day to night. The round sunglasses are pretty hot too.
Image – thesartorealist.com

Bright and colourful with a cool hemline and zipper. She could have done without the t-shirt beneath, but I get it. Cool. Image - nymag.com

Bright and colourful with a cool hemline and zipper. She could have done without the t-shirt beneath, but I get it. Cool.
Image – nymag.com

Black is always classic and can look amazing pretty easily, but this lady's dress has modern silhouettes and proportions while fitting her like a golves- and it looks great! Her minimalist gold necklace and cool haircut elevate the look. Image - nymag.com

Black is always classic and can look amazing pretty easily, but this lady’s dress has modern silhouettes and proportions while fitting her like a golves- and it looks great! Her minimalist gold necklace and cool haircut elevate the look.
Image – nymag.com

Two examples of great ornamentation and I like both equally. The neon lobster on the black dress to the right is cool and modern, and contrasts with the much more traditional embroidered cranes to it's left. Apart from their cool outfits, both if these women look amazing. Image - Phil Oh for vogue.com

Two examples of great ornamentation and I like both equally. The neon lobster on the black dress to the right is cool and modern, and contrasts with the much more traditional embroidered cranes to it’s left. Apart from their cool outfits, both if these women look amazing.
Image – Phil Oh for vogue.com

Wonderful in white with a great colourful bag and the attitude of a star. I'm sure she took the Marni show by storm! Image - nymag.com

Wonderful in white with a great colourful bag and the attitude of a star. I’m sure she took the Marni show by storm!
Image – nymag.com

Supermodel Jourdan Dunn flashing a smile on the way to a show. Beautiful! Image - Phil Oh for vogue.com

Supermodel Jourdan Dunn flashing a smile on the way to a show. Beautiful!
Image – Phil Oh for vogue.com

This woman's blouse is like a painting and I'm here for it. Plus it's plain cool with it's cuffs and voluminous sleeves. That with her very fitted jeans and long 70-s hair is amazing.  Image - nymag.com

This woman’s blouse is like a painting and I’m here for it. Plus it’s plain cool with it’s cuffs and voluminous sleeves. That with her very fitted jeans and long 70-s hair is amazing.
Image – nymag.com

Ok, this woman’s skirt and that bike wheel maybe aren’t the best pairing, but it’s a good image. Image – nymag.com” class=”size-medium” /> Ok, this woman’s skirt and that bike wheel maybe aren’t the best pairing, but it’s a good image.
Image – nymag.com[/caption]

I wish I could find a larger version of this picture because Carlo's wearing the hell out of that denim jumpsuit and leather jacket. Image - instagram.com

I wish I could find a larger version of this picture because Carlo’s wearing the hell out of that denim jumpsuit and leather jacket.
Image – instagram.com

I feel like I could definitely party with them. I love the girl's comfortable hang-out look and great hair and I'd wear everything the fella has on. I'm currently growing out his cool haircut too.  Image - Phil Oh for vogue.com

I feel like I could definitely party with them. I love the girl’s comfortable hang-out look and great hair and I’d wear everything the fella has on. I’m currently growing out his cool haircut too.
Image – Phil Oh for vogue.com

This man's shirt is so great with that pattern that's almost like a book illustration. His sunglasses are great and although I don't usually care for huge monogrammed belt buckles, his works.  Image - nymag.com

This man’s shirt is so great with that pattern that’s almost like a book illustration. His sunglasses are great and although I don’t usually care for huge monogrammed belt buckles, his works.
Image – nymag.com

Overall, the street style this past week was of excellent quality. Whether seen from afar or up close, these looks are all completely on point.

Let's end with Chiara Ferragni killing it again in an oversized silver cable- knit and short shirt. Her look's so simple but effective. Image - elle.com

Let’s end with Chiara Ferragni killing it again in an oversized silver cable- knit and short shirt. Her look’s so simple but effective.
Image – elle.com

My best,

Estevan

The Colourful World Of Printed Men’s Shirts

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - thefashionisto.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – thefashionisto.com

Gone are the days of only simple patterns and solid colours.

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - theimpression.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – theimpression.com

A few years ago, we saw the meteoric rise of Florence’s Pitti Uomo menswear shows to the top of the fashion world. Helped in a large part by the colourful outfits worn by show and event attendees, Pitti is and was a breath of fresh air. Called “peacocking”, the world’s dandies strutted for the fashion press in outfits of colours and combinations that dazzled- and helped bring a shift in everyday menswear away from the more sombre tones we’d all gotten accustomed to. As a bit of a dandy myself, I think it’s great!

Prada. Image - cdn-img.instyle.com

Prada. Image – cdn-img.instyle.com

Prada. Image - pinterest.com

Prada. Image – pinterest.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - daman.co.id

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – daman.co.id

Truthfully, Pitti wasn’t the sole influencer in this shift. The rise of social media and style stars, street and pop art influenced urban wear that saw collaborations with avant-garde artists and top fashion brands (think of the Louis Vuitton/ Takashi Murakami collaboration), the rise in awareness of traditional and non-Western fashions and cultures (especially traditionall Italian and Asian), the constant evolution of fashion as a whole… all helped, but images from Pitti put this change squarely before our eyes. It wasn’t long before beautiful, colourful clothing and patterns appeared on the runways and among the fashion crowd. With the the s/s 2017 shows well underway, I’d say colourful men’s clothing is definitely becoming mainstream, and it’s the bright showstopping shirts that are making the biggest splash.

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - theimpression.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – theimpression.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - theimpression.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – theimpression.com

Prada.  Image - tumblr.com

Prada. Image – tumblr.com

Now there have been labels and collections with amazing printed shirts for ages (Versace, Cavalli and the like), but the first I remember was a Prada offering (above) in a 2012 show. Off white and covered with 50’s-esque illustrations of people doing things, it was fresh, bright and memorable. Now, these themes are all the rage and Prada is still leading the pack with almost kitschy awesomeness in its “Impossible True Love” shirt, where an airman kisses Cleopatra under a starry sky. It’s bright. It’s cool. It’s almost like wearing a fancy comic book page and I really like it.

Prada's Impossible True Love tunic shirt. Image - tumblr.com

Prada’s Impossible True Love tunic shirt. Image – tumblr.com

Jeremy Scott. Image - tumblr.com

Jeremy Scott. Image – tumblr.com

Valentino Cosmos printed shirt. Image - niemanmarcus.com

Valentino Cosmos printed shirt. Image – niemanmarcus.com

Dolce & Gabbana, Tom Ford, Marni, Valentino, Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton… all are presenting amazing pieces. Jeremy Scott and Y-3 have examples with a hot street edge. Versace, Cavalli and Gucci continue with lush Italian designs printed on silk that make you think of party nights in Monaco or Sardenia. Brazilian label Desigual has designs with a tropical, really Brazilian, lightness. Basically… there are amazing examples to be found, so gents, join the trend!

Prada. Image - thesartorealist.com

Prada. Image – thesartorealist.com

Prada. Image - pinterest.com

Prada. Image – pinterest.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - instagram.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – instagram.com

My favourites are from Dolce & Gabbana’s collections. Their rich colours, almost over-embellishment and renaissance inspired designs throughout their menswear collections have always appealed to me. I love them. Hell, I’m wearing one of their shirts right now (though it’s just simple black)! Their campaigns are also great style inspirations for the gent looking to try a truly Italian luxury look.

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - thefashionisto.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – thefashionisto.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - dolcegabbana.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – dolcegabbana.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - pinterest.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – pinterest.com

Other favourites are the Asian inspired designs and rich colours at Louis Vuitton and the blue and white patterns at Prada that resemble old Dutch tiles. I also like Prada’s tunic-like shapes that look really breezy and comfortable.

Louis Vuitton. Image - tumblr.com

Louis Vuitton. Image – tumblr.com

Louis Vuitton. Image - vogue.com

Louis Vuitton. Image – vogue.com

Prada. Image - tumblr.com

Prada. Image – tumblr.com

If you’re wondering how to wear them, I’d say either go full Pitti- all out with an entire outfit of colours and patterns, or make your shirt the highlight of your look by keeping your trousers and accessories sombre. I usually wear mine with either dark blue or black jeans, trousers or shorts, black shoes and if I’m wearing a jacket, it’ll be black or navy blue.

Marni. Image - thesartorealist.com

Marni. Image – thesartorealist.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image - instagram.com

Dolce & Gabbana. Image – instagram.com

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria. Image - tumblr.com

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria. Image – tumblr.com

What do you guys think? Colourful printed shirts- yes or no? I’m certainly enjoying the trend.
My best,

Estevan

Sidewalk Saunter- Film Festival Edition.

Alicia Vikander & Michael Fassbender. Image- thefix.nine.com.au

These definitely aren’t sidewalks, but a lot of sauntering is going on. From August 31st to September 10th 2016, at the beautiful Lido di Venezia, the 73rd Venice International Film Festival is the highlight of the entertainment world. Organized by La Biennale di Venezia, the Venice Film Festival is the just as white tie- but slightly older, Italian equivalent of the famous Festival de Cannes that’s held in May at the seaside French Riviera town. Some of the world’s most gifted film makers, directors, actors, designers and models have gathered at The Floating City for the event, and they’ve definitely dressed for the occasion.

hhh

Jake Gyllenhaal looking cool and stylish for a daytime premiere.
Image- halboor.com

Whenever stars, media coverage of the highest level and warm European resort spots converge, the fashion is generally top notch. So far, the Venice Film Festival attendees haven’t disappointed, and from the city’s famous canals to the streets, red carpets and parties, the stars are heightening their style game with great looks. Some, like Aaron Taylor-Johnson, Jake Gyllenhaal and Barbara Palvin rocked multiple great looks that are on this list, but there’s been a wealth of style inspiration going on- and the festival still runs for some days! Let’s highlight a few standouts.

Diane Kruger in a silver embroidered, ivory white gown.
Image- celebitchy.com

Jeremy Renner, Amy Adams, and Darren Le Gallo arriving at a premiere. I love how 1950’s this image looks.
Image- vanityfair.com

Barbara Palvin arrives at the 73rd Venice Film Festival.
Image- hawtcelebs.com

Director Francesco Carrozzini and his mother Franca Sozzani, Italian Vogue’s editor-in-chief at the premiere of Francesco’s documentary on the extraordinary life of his mother. I think both look amazing… Italian high style at its finest.
Image- wmagazine.com

Model Eva Herzigova at her hotel before the Franca: Chaos and Creations premiere. Not so much a style shot, but I think Eva and this picture are so sexy.
Image- Vanityfair.com

Aaron Taylor-Johnson in one of his cool festival looks. His look is also definitely attainable by most men- it’s just a simple (but very well made) black shirt and pant combo.
Image- laineygossip.com

Aaron Taylor-Johnson in Tom ford at the designer/film maker’s premiere of his second film, ‘Nocturnal Animals’. Taylor-Johnson is also on the film’s cast.
Image- tumblr.com

Director Sam Taylor-Johnson and Aaron Taylor-Johnson with Aaron in great look #3. Beautiful couple.
Image- laineygossip.com

Dakota Fanning looking really great on her arrival to the Festival.
Image- thefix.nine.com.au

Michael Fassbender & Alicia Vikander at The Light Between Oceans’ premiere. Michael’s blue suit and tie are great for this daytime event. Also note the fit of his suit.
Image- glamourmagazine.co.uk

Model Barbara Palvin looks stunning in Philosophy. I love her.
Image- express.co.uk

Andrew Garfield waits on a yacht before a Film Festival event. Great sunglasses.
Image- justjared.com

Tom Ford, Amy Adams & Jake Gyllenhaal at a press event for Tom Ford’s ‘Nocturnal Animals’. All are easy, breezy, coolness for the not too formal event.
Image- celebuzz.com

Designer/ film maker Tom Ford in Tom Ford for his red carpet premiere of ‘Nocturnal Animals’. Tom is always dresses to the nines, but his slightly askew bow tie, jeweled studs and white pocket square are great!
Image- zimbio.com

Paz Vega looking amazing in Ralph & Russo.
Image- stylevitae.com

Emma Stone in Atelier Versace at the ‘La La Land’ premiere.
Image- vanityfair.com

Style star and designer Chiara Ferragni in Philosophy.
Image- zimbio.com

Just one more of Babs because… why not.
Image- tumblr.com

Sonia Rykiel, 1930- 2016

Sonia Rykiel by Dominique Issermann, 1980.  Image GETTY IMAGES

Sonia Rykiel by Dominique Issermann, 1980. Image GETTY IMAGES

It’s truly heartbreaking news when a monumentally talented person passes away. French designer Sonia Rykiel died on the morning of August 25th at her home in Paris from the effects of Parkinson’ Disease. She was 86 years old. She’d been battling with her illness for almost two decades, but it’s still shocking news for me to digest. You just can’t imagine someone like her dying. She was a woman who was always appeared happy, emblematic and full of energy- someone bursting with life- and it’s quite hard to imagine the fashion world without her.

Sonia Rykiel, Polaroid by Andy Warhol, 1986.  Image THEREDLIST.COM

Sonia Rykiel, Polaroid by Andy Warhol, 1986. Image THEREDLIST.COM

Sonia Rykiel was born Sonia Fils in Neuilly-sur-Seine on 25 May 1930. She was raised in a mixed Romanian- Russian Jewish household, and was the eldest of five sisters. She started working in fashion in her teens, when she was hired to dress the windows of a Parisian textile store at the age of 17. In her early 20s, she married Parisian boutique owner Sam Rykiel, with whom she had two children, Nathalie and Jean-Philippe.

Sonia Rykiel, Sam Rykiel and their children in their apartment in the  mid 1960s.  Image PARISMATCH.COM

Sonia Rykiel, Sam Rykiel and their children Nathalie and in the mid 1960s. Image PARISMATCH.COM

While pregnant in 1962, Mrs. Rykiel was unable to find fashionable maternity garments, and resorted to making her own clothes in an attractive style: a long sleeved, slim fitting dress and sweater in knitted jersey that clung to the body like a second skin. Practical and modern, her knits were sexy, stylish, and extremely comfortable, and became an instant hit among her friends. Known as the ‘Poor Boy’ sweater, she began receiving commissions for her designs and soon garnered such interest that her husband began selling her clothes in his shop.

Sonia Rykiel working in her husband's boutique, Laura's, in 1967 (top left, right) and in 1965 (bottom). Images WWD/ROGER VIOLLET

Sonia Rykiel working in her husband’s boutique, Laura’s, in 1967 (top left, right) and in 1965 (bottom). Images WWD/ROGER VIOLLET

Mrs. Rykiel designed all kinds of knitwear between 1962 and 1968: playing with shapes, textures, bright colours and motifs to create daring new looks. She was the first modern designer to incorporate stripes into her designs, a pattern that became one of her signatures because “…on clothing they follow a woman’s movements.” At the time stripes were considered dated and dowdy, but she reinvented them for a younger, more fashionable set by pairing them with modern silhouettes and colouring them in bright rainbow shades. Everything she ever did was about enhancing the beauty of the body in motion, and she was always interested with how unusual fabrics — fur, wool, feathers, etc. — moved with women as they walked.

Sonia Rykiel's experiments with textures and movement playing out on the runway: (clockwise from top left) Spring 2008, Resort 2006, Fall 1998 and Fall 2007.  Images WWD/VOGUE.COM

Sonia Rykiel’s experiments with textures and movement playing out on the runway: (clockwise from top left) Spring 2008, Resort 2006, Fall 1998 and Fall 2007. Images WWD/VOGUE.COM

In December 1963 Mrs. Rykiel made history when Elle magazine featured one of her famous jumpers on it’s cover. It was the first time that a women’s magazine or fashion journal had ever featured prêt-à-porter on it’s cover, and as such it was a big sensation. It was the beginning of the Swinging 60s and the Parisian youth were entranced by the new style that was taking London by storm. The demand for Ms. Rykiel’s designs spread like wildfire across Paris and a younger, more modern clientele began flocking to Sam Rykiel’s boutique. Almost immediately Audrey Hepburn visited the shop and purchased fourteen sweaters in every colour, Brigitte Bardot and Sylvie Vartan were photographed wearing Sonia Rykiel jumpers, and icons like Anouk Aimée, Francoise Hardy, Catherine Deneuve and Lauren Bacall began collecting her work.

Early Sonia Rykiel covers: (from left) her history- making first cover- Francoise Hardy by Marc Hispard for Elle France December 1963, Britt Ekland by Gianni Penati for US Vogue April 1969 and Elle France April 1971 by Tony Kent. Images HOSTORIEDEMODE.ORG/VOGUE.COM/SONIA RYKIEL.COM

Early Sonia Rykiel covers: (from left) her history- making first cover- Francoise Hardy by Marc Hispard for Elle France December 1963, Britt Ekland by Gianni Penati for US Vogue April 1969 and Elle France April 1971 by Tony Kent. Images HOSTORIEDEMODE.ORG/VOGUE.COM/SONIA RYKIEL.COM

Demand for her garments grew so strong that she founded her own fashion house, the Sonia Rykiel Company, in 1965, and opened her first boutique on Paris’ Left Bank in 1968 (the same year that she divorced her husband). Further success followed and her business grew quickly. In 1969 she opened an in-store shop at Galeries Lafayette, and her clothes were soon picked up by Bloomingdale’s and Henri Bendel in New York.

Sonia Rykiel in her atelier in 1968. Image

Sonia Rykiel in her atelier in 1968. Image ROGER VIOLLET

In 1972 Ms. Rykiel was dubbed the “Queen of Knits” by Women’s Wear Daily, a title that was used throughout her career. She was one of the first designers to join the Chambre Syndicale as an exclusively ready- to- wear house and stage prêt-à-porter fashion shows. She was also the first luxury ready-to-wear designer to collaborate with mail order firms, partnering with French company 3 Suisses for a capsule collection in 1977. In time, she went on to collaborate with La Redoute and H&M, and was one of the first major designers to explore the idea of ‘affordable luxury.’

Sonia Rykiel in 1973 (top, right), with Kenzo Takada and Karl Lagerfeld, and in 1984 (bottom, fourth from right), with Jack Lang (seventh on left), French Minister of Culture, and her contemporaries: (from left) Kenzo Takada, Anne-Marie Beretta, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Chantal Thomass, Alix Gres, Yves Saint-Laurent, Sonia Rykiel, Issey Miyake, Pierre Berge and Emanuel Ungaro. Image WWD/CNN.COM/GETTY IMAGES

Sonia Rykiel in 1973 (top, right), with Kenzo Takada and Karl Lagerfeld, and in 1984 (bottom, fourth from right), with Jack Lang (seventh on left), French Minister of Culture, and her contemporaries: (from left) Kenzo Takada, Anne-Marie Beretta, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Chantal Thomass, Alix Gres, Yves Saint-Laurent, Sonia Rykiel, Issey Miyake, Pierre Berge and Emanuel Ungaro. Image WWD/CNN.COM/GETTY IMAGES

Over the next few years, she continued to work with knitwear, developing new techniques like inside-out stitching, no-hem finishings and unlined knits. She started trends that have endured to this very day, like printed slogan sweaters, quilted jackets and cropped knits. She has also been credited with the popularization of wearing black, a colour that she wore everyday. “My color is black,” she once told an American fashion editor, “And black, if it’s worn right, is a scandal…it’s indecent when well worn, intense and disturbing, striking and stops the eye.”

The runway of a 1975 show staged in the Sonia Rykiel atelier (top left), the designer working with a model in 1973 (top right) and 1975 (bottom).  Image JEAN- LUCE HURE/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

The runway of a 1975 show staged in the Sonia Rykiel atelier (top left), the designer working with a model in 1973 (top right) and 1975 (bottom). Image JEAN- LUCE HURE/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

Ms. Rykiel remained creative director of her company until her retirement in 2009. Although her daughter Nathalie replaced her as the company’s director and Julie de Libran became the head designer, Ms. Rykiel maintained an active part of the brand even after her retirement.

Sonia Rykiel taking her bow on the runway for her Spring 2002 (top), her Fall 1994 (centre) and Fall 1984 shows.  Image GETTY IMAGES

Sonia Rykiel taking her bow on her Spring 2002 runway. Image GETTY IMAGES/FRANCOIS GUILLOT/GERARD FOURE/AFP

Throughout her career, Ms. Rykiel experimented with every type of design- branching out into other ventures including children’s clothing, menswear, lingerie, accessories, fragrances, chinaware and chocolates. Along the way she also tried her hand at costume design and interior decorating. She published several books, many about fashion, but also wrote a collection of children’s stories and several novels that explored her thoughts on erotica, philosophy, feminism and life in general.

Sonia Rykiel's various ventures: (clockwise, from top left) Sonia Rykiel makeup by Lancôme, towels from the 2011 home collection, various pieces of costume jewelry, the 2009 Sonia Rykiel Barbie and the famous 'Canard Vibrant' sex toys from her 2011 collection.  Image LANCÔME.COM/STYLEFRIZZ.COM/ELLE UK/1STDIBS/SHOPSTYLE.COM/VESTIARECOLLECTION.COM/MATTEL.COM/DOITINPARIS.COM

Sonia Rykiel’s various ventures: (clockwise, from top left) Sonia Rykiel makeup by Lancôme, towels from the 2011 home collection, various pieces of costume jewelry, the 2009 Sonia Rykiel Barbie and the famous ‘Canard Vibrant’ sex toys from her 2011 collection. Image LANCÔME.COM/STYLEFRIZZ.COM/ELLE UK/1STDIBS/SHOPSTYLE.COM/VESTIARECOLLECTION.COM/MATTEL.COM/DOITINPARIS.COM

Sonia Rykiel was awarded many honours during her lifetime, including being appointed a Commandeur of the Légion d’honneur, a Commandeur de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres and a Grand Officer of the National Order of Merit.

Sonia Rykiel with former French Prime Minister Nicholas Sarkozy at the 2009 ceremony where she bacame a Commandeur of the Legion d'Honneur.  Image GETTY IMAGES/FRANCOISE GOIZE

Sonia Rykiel with former French Prime Minister Nicholas Sarkozy at the 2009 ceremony where she bacame a Commandeur of the Legion d’Honneur. Image GETTY IMAGES/FRANCOISE GOIZE

In 2012 Ms. Rykiel revealed that for the previous 15 years, she had been battling Parkinson’s disease, a progressive neurological disorder. She had kept her illness a secret- even from her family, until she could no longer hide the symptoms. Her death was directly caused by complications of the disease.

Sonia Rykiel by Elias for Garage Magzine December 2013.  Image GARAGE MAGAZINE

Sonia Rykiel by Elias for Garage Magzine December 2013. Image GARAGE MAGAZINE

Throughout her career Sonia Rykiel was likened to the great Coco Chanel because of her ability to liberate women from the constraints of traditional fashion. Just as Mademoiselle Coco eschewed corsets, high necks and uncomfortable clothing, Ms. Rykiel avoided the restrictive “New Look” style that had become the norm during the 1950s. Lean and sensuous, her garments placed great emphasis on the allure of the female form, bringing attention to natural curves without any excess paddings, linings or fuss. Her designs were practical, but sexy, and were meant to be lived in and worn numerous times. She was one of the few designers who actually understood how women wanted to dress and saw her garments as what they were meant to be- tools that service a woman’s life, not things that defined her. She never took design too seriously, and simply made clothes that she liked and wanted, garments that reflected her daily moods and her ever changing needs.

Looks from the runway: (clockwise from top left) Spring 1994, Spring 1976, Fall 1989, Fall 2007, Spring 2007, Spring 1975.  Image WWD/VOGUE.COM/JEAN- LUCE HURE/DIDIER DESTAL/GETTY IMAGES

Looks from the runway: (clockwise from top left) Spring 1994, Spring 1976, Fall 1989, Fall 2007, Spring 2007, Spring 1975. Image WWD/VOGUE.COM/JEAN- LUCE HURE/DIDIER DESTAL/GETTY IMAGES

Sonia Rykel reshaped women’s perception of luxury and freedom, and introduced an edgier approach to style that was unlike anything ever seen before. Before her, knitwear was usually homemade and was an ugly, chunky, unsexy affair. She introduced the notion of machine produced luxury knits in jersey, lurex and tinsel- blended knits, and she single-handedly transformed them into the fitted, feminine wardrobe staples we know (and love) today.

Rykiel Runways: (top) Spring 1989, (bottom) Spring 2011.  Image GAMMA RAY/VOGUE.COM/GETTY IMAGES

Rykiel Runways: (top) Spring 1989, (bottom) Spring 2011. Image GAMMA RAY/VOGUE.COM/GETTY IMAGES

“First I made a dress because I was pregnant and I wanted to be the most beautiful pregnant woman. Then I made a sweater because I wanted to have one that wasn’t like anyone else’s,” she told an interviewer in 2006s. “I don’t know if I’m perceived as being provocative, I suppose it’s an attitude that I’ve had since Day One. I am not swayed by anybody else. Who cares what they think?…I’m a fashion fraude. I never studied couture, I don’t know how to knit and still I became the queen of knitwear.”

Sonia Rykiel by Timothy Greenfield-Sanders, 1990.

Sonia Rykiel by Timothy Greenfield-Sanders, 1990. Image THEREDLIST.COM

She was a true individual, and and a living faunt of high design. She will be deeply missed.

Xx – Ana

Friday Fierceness!

“In a Fairy Tale”- Harper’s Bazaar Russia August 2016

Gown: Gucci. Image HARPER’S BAZAAR RUSSIA/RACHELL SMITH

Model: Karen Elson
Photographer: Rachell Smith
Stylist: Anna Katsanis
Hair: Keith Carpenter
Makeup: Niki M’nray