“Trailblazing”- WSJ Mazagaine March 2017
Model: Luna Bijl
Photographer: Cass Bird
Stylist: Véronique Didry
Hair: Tamara McNaughton
Makeup: Frank B.
“Trailblazing”- WSJ Mazagaine March 2017
Model: Luna Bijl
Photographer: Cass Bird
Stylist: Véronique Didry
Hair: Tamara McNaughton
Makeup: Frank B.
“Siren Song”- Harper’s Bazaar UK March 2017
Model: Madison Stubbington
Photographer: Erik Madigan Heck
Stylist: Leith Clark
Hair: Laurent Philippon
Makeup: Polly Osmond
The second major awards ceremony on Hollywood’s schedule, the 23rd annual Screen Actors Guild (SAG) Awards was held on 29 January at the Shrine Auditorium in Los Angeles, California. Again there was some great fashion on display as the stars turned up their glam for the red carpet. Here are my favourite looks of the night.
Michelle Dockery- Elie Saab gown, Amanda Pearl bag, Jimmy Choo heels, Niwaka Collections Jewelry
Nicole Kidman- Gucci gown, Kotur clutch, Stuart Weitzman heels, Fred Leighton jewelry, Omega watch
Teresa Palmer- Valentino gown, Jimmy Choo clutch, Stefere jewelry
Sarah Paulson- custom Vera Wang gown and cape, Tyler Ellis bag, Brian Atwood heels, Nirav Modi jewelry
Ellie Kemper- Wai Ming gown, Judith Leiber clutch, Giuseppe Zanotti shoes, Forevermark jewelry
Maggi Siff- Zac Posen gown, Butani jewels
Cara Buono- Georges Hobeika gown, Olgana Paris heels, Beth Miller jewelry
Evan Rachael Wood- custom Altuzarra suit, Judth Leiber Couture clutch, Salvatore Ferragamo heels, Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Emily Blunt- Roberto Cavalli Couture, Lorraine Schwartz jewelry
Alia Shawkat- custom Rubin Singer gown, Edie Parker bag, Loeffler Randall shoes
Amy Adams- Brandon Maxwell gown, Tyler Ellis bag, Jimmy Choo heels, Cartier jewelry
Rashida Jones- Vivienne Westwood Couture gown, Stuart Weitzman heels, jewelry by Irene Neuwirth & Ileana Makri
Claire Foy- Valentino gown, Jimmy Choo heels, Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Kirsten Dunst- Christian Dior gown, Fred Leighton jewelry
Janelle Monáe- Chanel Métiers d’Art 2017 dress, Roger Vivier clutch, Stuart Weitzman heels, Chanel Fine jewelry
Annalise Basso- custom Bibhu Mohapatra gown, Edie Parker bag, Amrapali jewelry
Yara Shahidi- Naeem Khan gown, Jane Taylor and Swarvoski jewelry
Angela Sarafayan- Zac Posen gown, Edie Parker bag, Jimmy Choo shoes, Kimberly McDonald & Gemfields jewelry
Melissa Rauch- Luisa Beccaria gown, Tyler Ellis bag, Stuart Weitzman heels, Seffy jewelry
Kimiko Glenn- Kayat gown, Stuart Weitzman heels, jewelry by Hearts on Fire and Le Vian
Octavia Spencer- Tadashi Shoji, Tyler Ellis bag, Stuart Weitzman shoes, Jacob & Co. jewelry
Elizabeth Rodriguez- Paolo Sebastian gown, L’Dezen by Payal Shah and Le Vian jewelry
Judith Light- Tom Ford gown, Judith Leiber Couture clutch, Manolo Blahnik heels, Chopard jewelry
Laura Carmicheal- Christopher Kane gown, Neil Lane jewelry
“Carolina de Monaco”- Vogue España February 2017
Model: Julia van Os
Photographer: Gorka Postigo
Stylist: Sara Fernandez
Hair, makeup: Pablo Iglesias
“Erotic”- Vogue Ukraine February 2017
Model: Anja Rubik
Photographer: Chris Colls
Stylist: Julie Pelipas
Hair: Diego Da Silva
Makeup: Maud Laceppe
I’ve been a lifelong fan of Dolce & Gabbana… my folks dressed me in it as a child and it’s among the first labels I remember buying when I started shopping for myself. Their clothes all fit so well and last forever, the excess of embellishment juxtaposing clean, modern silhouettes is exactly my taste and, well, their ad’s are always on point. Furthermore, as a lover of the type of romanticized history the brand bases it’s designs on, I don’t think I’m going to be jumping ship anytime soon.
Following several seasons of in-depth explorations of traditional Italian themes, the Fall 2017 “The New Princes” collection was a slightly more toned down continuation of their recent offerings. Featuring fall’s darker colours, beautifully crafted embellishment and a level of comical kitsch that was on the verge of being too much- but wasn’t. With over 100 looks covering everything from formal, lounge and sportswear to stuffed animal backpacks and embroidered heraldic beasts, there was something for every taste. It was a playful offering, sure to bring out the child in any man.
The overwhelming media attention has focused on the show’s models- superstar millennials Cameron Dallas, Tinie Tempah, Chen Xue Dong, the Stallone sisters, Sofia Richie and others walked among a sprinkling of actual (super)models Lucky Blue Smith, Oliver Cheshire, Aurelien Muller and the like, but for me, the clothes stole the show. True- a good model is entertaining and a star like Naomi Campbell can leave a viewer awestruck, but I look at runway shows so I can see what I want to buy. So, that’s what we’ll be focusing on here.
First of all, I love the embellished metallic suits and coats. The Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria fall 2015 show premiered a literal suit of gold that closed the show in every sense, but this season’s less embellished versions were no less showstopping. The gold, blue and black jacquard suit worn by Tinie Tempah, a gold and red patterned three piece and another in black velvet covered with small golden crowns were my favourites, but really, I like them all. A beautifully tailored gold and black overcoat shown over pinstriped pants and red velvet slippers was another favourite, as was a bronze, gold and black Asian-inspired paisley patterned suit. Yes, they’re not really for regular wear, but I’d definitely wear them to all sorts of parties and club nights as shown, or with other clothing.
Even the darkest non-glittery suits and outerwear were cut of uber luxurious fabrics and were so well tailored that they definitely deserve mention- Cameron Dallas’ show opening deep purple and black number, another of black embriodery, Lucky Blue’s heavy wool coat and all of the looks sent out for the show’s final walk.
Embellished sweaters were another highlight and were definitely where a lot of the show’s kitsch showed up. All manner of snarling beast, heraldic symbols, skeletons, crowned cartoon faces, a ferocious bear sweater with one furry arm and more strutted down the catwalk in Milan. To many, it’s a lot. To me- perfect! I love all the early Renaissance looking animals, Barberini gold bees and endless crowns. Even the pop art caricatures of Domenico and Stefano that were added to a button down jacket were great. True, the stuffed toy looking backpacks and hoodie were too much- and you won’t see them here, but I didn’t mind them on the runway. Though this is coming from someone with closets full of just as kitsch-y clothes, I think Dolce & Gabbana straddled the playful line perfectly.
Printed polo and silk shirts and black ruffle-fronted shirts were also outstanding and beautifully carried the Renaissance theme. The ruffled shirts were mostly shown with embellished suits and somehow didn’t at all seem out of place.
Then there were some pieces that didn’t really fit in, but I very much liked. First was a camel coat that was beautifully tailored and had a pair of embroidered knights in a square off on the chest. The length and fit on this are exceptional. Then there was a beautiful gold edged, oversized black wool tunic that has an intricate coat of arms on the front and wine red quilted lining that I will DEFINITELY be getting. It was shown over a red velvet hoodie with grey pants and looked extremely comfortable. Finally the brilliant yellow blazer and brocade, lion embroidered bomber jacket stood out among the darker shades of the rest of the collection and were definite high points. As were the pants with armor shaped fabric additions at the ankle that were shown in many colours and fabrics throughout the lineup.
Finally, you can’t talk about Dolce & Gabbana and not mention the shoes and accessories. Let’s just say I like all. Shoe wise, the label’s coveted velvet slippers were in full force and were all beautifully detailed, but the simplest boots and formal shoes were just as good. I wish they had sent a good pair of slim toe-d oxfords down the runway because I’m not a fan of boxy, rounded shoes, but even these were of obviously excellent quality. The jewelry and bags shown (minus the animal ones) were great too, and of special note was the style and number of slim bowties that appeared.
Style wise, multiple signet rings and layers of chains turned the models into modern princes and are very easy additions that bring that catwalk style into your personal wardrobe. I’ve been rocking exactly that look for years, but I think I’m going to add a few more. Dolce & Gabbana is all about that lux, so head to toe, the models exuded wealth and a certain polished joie de vivre.
It was great.
Image credits: cover photo- Dolce & Gabbana’s official Instagram page, all others via Vogue.com
Heraklean Knot Serpent Armlet- an ancient gold, ruby and garnet upper arm bracelet
This Central Asian treasure is dated to the Hellenistic period of Greek history, about 4th century BC- 1st century AD, and is a beautiful and unusual piece. Style-wise, the jewel displays many classical aspects of Hellenistic jewelry, depicting the intertwined bodies of two Asclepian snakes joined in the centre by a Herakles knot, adorned with two inlaid cabochon-cut garnets and a large cabochon-cut ruby. What makes this piece so unusual is the incredible attention to detail that went into it’s construction: the snakes are lifelike, with textured heads and finely detailed faces, their bodies covered in hundreds of individually applied scales. This technique has been documented on several other artifacts, and has been attributed to the Scythian culture, since several pieces of surviving Scythian jewelry are constructed similarly.
This piece was most likely worn as a protective amulet by it’s original owner as it depicts two of the most powerful protective symbols in Greek mythology- snakes and Knots of Herakles.
The serpent is one of the oldest and most powerful symbols of fertility and creative life force in the Greek, Egyptian and Roman civilizations. It was associated with wisdom and protection in these mythologies as they often guarded the bodies and temples of the gods. Snakes were considered lucky, and snake-styled jewelry was extremely popular as talismans against evil among the elite of these cultures. Aesculapian snakes were considered particularly special due to their association with Asclepius, the Greek god of healing and medicine, who carried a rod entwined with an Aesculapian serpent.
The Herakles Knot depicts a strong knot created by two intertwined ropes, and was another powerful symbol in Greek, Egyptian, and Roman beliefs. Originally used as a healing charm in Egypt, the Greeks and Romans utilized the motif in protective amulets, believing it to avert evil and illness. It was often incorporated in jewelry and clothing (most commonly girdles worn by brides), but has been found in mosaics, sculpture, metalwork and pottery. Although it was a common symbol in Hellenistic jewelry design, it’s use in combination with snake imagery is notably less so, with only two other pieces of jewelry (both armlets) having been found so far.
Hellenistic jewelry was also quite popular outside of the Greek civilization and was coveted by the nomadic Scythians, Persians and other cultures that traded extensively with Greek settlements. This sparked a thirst for Greek art across Eurasia, influencing craftsmen to adopt the Greek style in their art and jewelry. Some styles were so perfectly copied that it is sometimes impossible to determine who crafted an item, or even exactly where it was made.
Such is the case with this piece. Although it has been attributed to the Scythians, it is not known exactly where it was made as the Scythian Empire stretched across Central Asia, into the Eurasian Steppes and up the coast of the Northern Black Sea. Trade within the Empire was extensive and as the armlet is made of widely traded inorganic materials, the conclusive dating and mapping of it’s origin may be truly impossible. For now, we’ll say it’s a Scythian product.
All I know is it’s beautiful and it’s history makes it even more special to me. It’s a perfect Jewel of the Month!
Xx – Ana
The Golden Globe Awards is the first major awards ceremony of Hollywood’s annual Awards season and is really the most entertaining of the group. With this year’s Golden Globe’s over, we have the Screen Actor’s Guild Awards, the BAFTAs (not actual Hollywood, but it counts) and the Academy Awards to look forward to. With so many events following in swift succession, the stars are kicking their fashion games into high gear, and this year, many have started early!
The 74th annual Golden Globe Awards took place on January 8th at The Beverly Hilton in Beverly Hills, California, and there was some seriously fab fashion on show. Many of the stars showed up looking their best, but here are my favourite looks of the night!
Evan Rachel Wood- custom Altuzarra suit, Neil Lane jewelry, Judith Leiber bag, Jimmy Choo heels
Ruth Negga- custom Louis Vuitton gown, Fred Leighton & Gemfields jewelry
Olivia Culpo- Zuhair Murad Haute Couture gown, Rubeus Milano bag, Schutz shoes, Lorraine Schwartz jewelry
Natalie Portman- custom Prada gown, Tomasino clutch, Jimmy Choo heels, Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Jessica Chastain- custom Prada gown, Piaget jewelry
Caitriona Balfe- Delpozo gown, Jimmy Choo bag, Loriblu heels, Neil Lane jewelry
Claire Foy- custom Erdem gown, Fred Leighton jewelry
Meryl Streep- custom Givenchy Haute Couture gown, Harry Winston jewelry
Zoe Saldana- custom Gucci gown, Bulgari jewelry
Gwendoline Christie- Vivienne Westwood gown, Ara Vartanian jewelry
Naomie Harris- custom Armani Privé gown, Jimmy Choo heels, Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Amanda Peet- custom Bottega Veneta gown, Ana Khouri jewelry
Millie Bobby Brown- custom Jenny Packham gown, Edie Parker clutch, Sophia Webster sandals
Thandie Newton- Monse gown, Harry Winston jewelry
Lola Kirke- Andrew Gn gown, Chopard jewelry
Kirsten Bell- Jenny Packham gown, Harry Winston jewelry
Viola Davis- custom Micheal Kors (gasp) gown, Judith Leiber clutch, Harry Winston jewelry
Teresa Palmer- Armani Prive gown, Jimmy Choo clutch, Sophis Webster heels, Niwaka Collections jewelry
Brie Larson- custom Rodarte gown, Tyler Ellis bag, Roger Vivier heels, Forevermark jewelry
Emma Stone- Valentino Haute Couture Gown, Valentino bag, Jimmy Choo heels, Tiffany & Co. jewelry
Issa Rae- custom Christian Siriano gown, L’Dezen by Payal Shah jewelry
Gillian Anderson- custom Jenny Packham gown Sophie Hulme bag, Jimmy Choo shoes, Chanel Haute Joaillerie
Annette Bening- Pamella Roland gown
Georgina Chapman- Marchesa gown, Marchesa bag, Lorraine Schwartz jewelry
Regina King- Ramona Keveza gown, L’Dezen by Payal Shah jewelry
Winona Ryder- custom Victor & Rolf gown
Sofía Vergara- Zuhair Murad Haute Couture gown, Lorraine Schwartz jewelry
So, which were your favourites?
Xx – Ana
For Pre- Fall 2017, designer Alena Akhmadullina continued her decade-long tradition of translating traditional Russian folk tales into imaginative collections full of gorgeous craftsmanship and magical imagery. Ms. Akhmadullina is a designer who tells stories through her work, and this season she drew inspiration from The Firebird; a beautiful tale involving a magical bird, a resplendent palace and a royal garden with enchanted golden apples… how fab!
This translated into hand-painted prints of leaves and apples, embroidered birds, feathers and flowers, furry patchwork appliqués and elaborate intarsia knits. She based her looks in rich shades of blue, deep green, ochre, gold and black, and constructed them out of lux velvets, cashmere, silk tulle, satin, dupioni silk and fur.
Silhouettes were also suitably plush, with relaxed, slightly outsized shapes that echoed the look of pyjamas, nightdresses and robes- a look that pushed the sumptuous, dreamy feel of the collection even further. There were some traditionally regal touches to be seen in the form of sweeping robes, ruffled dresses and enormous quilted Mongolian- style coats, while cozy sweaters, soft trousers and sheer button- front blouses added a modern edge that brought all the fantasy into our time.
Oddly enough, the pieces that I was drawn to the most were the simpler ones- plainer knits, separates and the embellished slipdresses- these were the pieces that I could see people turning to time and again. Who wouldn’t love sumptuous, luxurious staples that would add a little fantasy to every day situations.
Alena Akhmadullina’s Pre- Fall 2017 collection was a beautifully illustrated ode to Russian culture, like a Faberge egg of the fashion world. Apart from being fabulously designed and immaculately constructed, it allowed really Ms. Akhmadullina to showcase her extensive couture training to best effect. The painted patterns were beautiful and imaginative, while all the fur embroideries and layered knitwear were spellbinding in their precise execution.
Our Favourites: a bright blue handpainted slipdress, a black sweater with a furry patchwork wolf at the front, a dark green quilted coat with a painted apple print, a gold handpainted brocade slipdress, a black silk coat with a painted apple print and fur collar, a black silk coat with intricate Firebird embroidery at the back, a long dark green cashmere robe with feather embroidered lapels (love the blue version as well), a gold handpainted brocade robe with satin lapels, a yellow slipdress with an embellished black tulle overlay, a black button- front jacket with embroidered birds on the pockets, an embroidered blue cashmere sweater with matching trousers and a bright blue handpainted overcoat trimmed in fur.
Xx – Ana
Sparkle, sequins, metallics, and even gold- tipped feathers ran a festive-looking thread thread throughout Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art collection, the brand’s sixth and final runway show of 2016.
Called Paris Cosmopolite the collection was inspired by all the glitz and glamour of Paris’ Hôtel Ritz, or rather “the evening dresses that women used to wear to dine at the Ritz” (which has just been given a fabulous facelift by the way). To Mr.Lagerfeld, The Ritz is “the cosmopolitan spot par excellence”, a place that buzzes with life, glamour and joie de vivre- qualities that every one of his Chanel offerings have maintained… it makes sense that he would focus on these particular feelings to excess throughout the collection.
“The Ritz is very gilded. Look, white with gold!” Karl Lagerfeld remarked after the show, gesturing at the lobby’s décor from his throne of a plush velvet couch. Maison Chanel has had a long history with the hotel, Madameoselle Coco famously lived there for 35 years, and the Chanel’s atelier are literally steps away from it’s back door. However, despite this famous connection, Mr. Lagerfeld emphasized that this offering was not based on Mademoselle Chanel herself, but the elegance of the hotel and its fabulous patrons who have visited throughout the years. “[There are] people from all over the world who’ve come to the Ritz. There were hundreds of dinners in the ’20s and ’30s, where women wore incredible things.”
And he truly produced some incredible things!
Everything sparkled- almost every look was covered with some sort of glimmering adornment, and Mr. Lagerfeld piled on even more shine with metallic fabrics and glossy leather inserts. He based the majority of his looks in black and white, with deep tones of rose and dusty blue, and girly shades of blush and metallic silvery- lavender adding richly coloured accents.
It was all gorgeous: beaded jackets, embellished blouses, capri trousers covered in sequins, crystal- encrusted evening gowns with gold embroidery and feathered trims…showstopping things that showed off the work of Chanel’s ateliers to best effect. Glammed- up versions of Chanel classics appeared as well: tweeds that dissolved into trailing fringe, slim tweed suits covered in glimmering trim, and bouclé jackets shot through with gold and embellished with pearls, tweed roses, floral embroidery and gilded Plexiglass buttons.
Plainer items like relaxed knits, tweed coats, leather trousers and sleek pantsuits were no less impressive. Their trim Parisian silhouettes and immaculate construction gave them a classic look and offered a refreshing interlude from all the glamour. A little modernity was added here and there in the form of outsized knitted cardigans, sleek knitted slipdresses, embellished crop tops and even a silky black puffer jacket- the perfect thing to wear when it’s just starting to get very cold.
It was a great collection. Chanel’s 2017 Métiers d’Art offering was a beautifully vibrant, elegant and glamourous ode to The Ritz and it’s fabulous aura. IT was also one of the house’s most polished collections in years. Mr. Lagerfeld hit every right note and it’s bound to be an offering that resonates well with loyal brand followers and new customers.
Our favourites: a black and white tweed jacket with black leather sleeves and a draped shawl neckline, a black leather jacket with cape sleeves, a puffy white waffle- knitted coat, a gold leather jacket and matching trousers, a fringed black and white tweed coat with a matching scarf, a black tweed jacket with multicoloured fringe, a long beaded black evening jacket with a matching embellished sweater and pair of embellished trousers, a black tweed skirt suit with multicoloured beaded embellishments, an embellished black evening dress with an ostrich feather skirt, a knitted metallic silver slipdress, an outsized pink waffle- knitted cardigan, fringed gold tweed dress with a pink tapestry bodice, a black evening jacket with multicoloured sequin embroidery, an embellished gold evening gown with a gold feathered skirt, two white evening suits with floral appliqués, pearl beading and gold embroidery, a red tweed overcoat, a white skirt suit with whip- stitched detailing, a gold pailette- embellished ensemble with a cropped blouse and long skirt and a black velvet evening jacket with a matching bow- embellished organza skirt.