Friday Fierceness!

“Lois de Saison (Season Laws)”- Vogue Paris September 2016

Embellished jumpsuit: Philipp Plein, Puffer Jacket: Acne Studios, Jewelry: Repossi. Image VOGUE PARIS/PARTICK DEMARCHELIER

Model: Julie Hoomans
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Stylist: Suzanne Koller
Hair: Duffy
Makeup: Aaron de Mey

SIDEWALK SAUNTER

I love this shot! This stylish young lady looks both vintage and modern with her cool bob and bangs. What a way to frame such a great face!
Copenhagen Fashion Week, August 2016. Image- vogue.co.uk

Hi all! It’s been a little while! Hope you’ve been enjoying your summer as much as I have.

This guy’s head-to-toe in patterns and colors and I really like it. If you notice, they’re all in muted off blue/ off purple shades, with the truly bright color peeking out in the periwinkle blue of his socks. Yes, his pants could be tailored a little better, but as a look, I like it.
Munbai. Image- wearabout.wordpress.com

For this Sidewalk Saunter, I’ve decided to highlight some later summer looks that don’t really look like “summer” looks. These are outfits that are great for the occasional chilly night or not swelteringly hot day. Looks for traveling (see Orlando Bloom) or running around getting things done (see the NY beauty in the white shirtdress and Adidas kicks). I think they’re all pretty smart!

Orlando Bloom walking through an airport looking cool and comfortable. His bomber jacket’s great (I think St Laurent?)!
LA. Image- getty images

I’m not a huge fan of this girl’s tennis shoes and socks, but I can’t hate it because she literally exudes nonchalant cool.
Copenhagen Fashion Week, August 2016. Image- vogue.co.uk

Great jacket, great shoes, great grey t-shirt, great pants… hell, even great hair. Good work sir.
London. Image- Jonathan Price for gq-magazine.co.uk

This guy’s definitely feeling chilly, but looks good with his well styled jacket and striped shirt.
London. Image- Jonathan Pryce for gq-magazine.co.uk

How a stylish woman runs her errands in NYC. Cool and comfortable with a great bag, she looks great!
New York. Image- facebook.com

India’s not the 1st place to come to mind when you think of stylish Western clothing, but there’s a huge group of trendsetters over there! Look at this man. Every piece he’s wearing is cool and they all work together. Those pants… I wouldn’t mind finding out where to get a pair.
Mumbai. Image- wearabout.wordpress.com

Ana’s always going on about great accessories adding to your look, and I think this small Louis Vuitton bag is a great example of that. Really simple, really sleek and very modern with the chain placement and updated monogram. It’s easy to see why this is a popular style among the fashion crowd.
Copenhagen Fashion Week, August 2013. Image- vogue.co.uk

My best,

Estevan

Friday Fierceness!

“Cara Go Lightly”- Elle US September 2016

Dress: Yves Saint Laurent, Stockings: Wolford, Jewelry: Messika. Image ELLE US/ TERRY TSISOLIS

Model: Cara Delevingne
Photographer: Terry Tsiolis
Stylist: Samira Nasr
Hair: Mara Roszak
Makeup: Jeanine Lobell

Friday Fierceness!

“Big Chic”- Vogue Germany September 2016

Blouse: Jil Sander. Image VOGUE GERMANY/PATRICK DEMARCHELIER/INSTAGRAM

Model: Frederikke Sofie
Photographer: Patrick Demarchelier
Stylist: Sarajane Hoare
Hair: James Pecis
Makeup: Gucci Westman

Dress: Yves Saint Laurent. Image VOGUE GERMANY/PATRICK DEMARCHELIER/INSTAGRAM

Image VOGUE GERMANY/PATRICK DEMARCHELIER

Friday Fierceness!

“Athletic Girl/ When Sport Meets Fashion”- Vogue Italia August 2016

(On her) Bodysuit: Giorgio Armani, Shoes: Lanvin, (on him) Bodysuit: Hood by Air, Shoes: Everlast. Image VOGUE ITALIA/STEVEN KLEIN

Models: Lara Stone & Andres Sanjuan
Photographer: Steven Klein
Stylist: Patti Wilson
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Hair: Shon

Jewel of the Month

The Habsburg Parure- a four piece suite of peridot and diamond jewels by Köchert

The Habsburg Peridot Parure by Köchert. Image ROYALJEWELS.COM

What a beauty! This parure is the only known royal suite that implements the brightly-coloured semiprecious peridot as it’s centerpiece. Created by jewellers AE Köchert in the mid- 1820s for the Royal Family of Austria (the famed Habsburg’s), the suite is composed of a bandeau- style tiara, a pair of ornate earrings, a necklace with seven pendants and a dramatic devant de corsage (large brooch or stomacher). Done in traditional Georgian jewelry style, the suite is composed of enormous deep olive green peridots set in a scrolling frame studded with cushion and rose- cut white diamonds, all set in silver and yellow gold. The tiara is designed as a band of seven graduated clusters of floral and foliate scrollwork, with five large step- cut peridots forming the centers of the middle rosettes with two diamond flowers at each end. The necklace features a graduated chain of ten peridot and diamond clusters with a hanging fringe of seven teardrop- shaped peridot and diamond pendants. These pendants are removable and can also be worn upright along the top frame of the tiara. The suite’s girandole- style earrings and corsage ornament mimic the tiara’s delicate floral motif, and both are designed as peridot and diamond clusters surmounted by sprays of diamond flowers and leaves. The flowers on the earrings are detachable and support teardrop- shaped pendants of diamonds and gold with peridot swing centers, while the floral clusters on the brooch elaborately border it’s emerald- cut peridot center and support three small hanging peridot and diamond teardrops.

The two variations of the Habsbrg Peridot Tiara, with the seven pendants from the necklace (top) and without the attachments in it’s traditional bandeau style. Image ROYALJEWELS.COM

Originally made for the wedding of Princess Henrietta of Nassau-Weilburg to Archduke Charles, Duke of Teschen, this suite is most often associated with Princess Isabella von Croÿ, (wife of the couple’s grandson, Archduke Frederick) as she was the first lady be seen wearing the entire parure. Archduchess Isabella was famously photographed wearing the full suite at the 1916 coronation of Emperor Charles I of Austria-Hungary, an event that turned out to be one of the last great Habsburg celebrations.

Archduchcess Isabella of Croÿ photographed wearing the Peridot Parure to Emperor Charles’ coronation ball in 1916 (left) and a painting of the Archduchess at the event that was completed at a later date. Image THECOURTJEWELLER.COM/DINASTIAS.FOROGRATIS.ES

The Archduchess’s family kept the peridot suite after her September 1931 death, but it was sold a few years later, after the death of the Archduke in December 1936. The sale took place in early 1937 to Count Johannes Coudenhove-Kalergi, a Czech nobleman, who purchased the parure for his wife Countess Lilly. It then passed by descent to their daughter Countess Maria.

Two other photographs of Archduchcess Isabella at Emperor Charles’ coronation ball in 1916 offering a view of her parure from the front and a close-up of her jewels in semi-profile. Image THECOURTJEWELLER.COM/DINASTIAS.FOROGRATIS.ES

Countess Maria Electa von Coudenhove-Kalergi chose to live a simple life in the United States, residing in California and known only as Maria Calergi. The Countess never wore her inherited jewels, preferring to keep them tucked away inconspicuously in a safety deposit box for the duration of her life. When she died in 2000, her estate administrators were shocked to find the jewels in her Los Angeles vault, wrapped in tea towels and kitchen paper. The parure was in perfect condition and was accompanied by a packet of documents that included descriptions and illustrations from their 1937 sale catalogue.

Illustrations of the Habsburg Peridot Parure and other jewels from the 1937 auction, copied from the Maria Coudenhove-Kalergi’s copy of the catalogu listing. Image SOTHEBY’S

Sotheby’s London auctioned the Habsburg peridots in 2001, and they were bought by famous New York- based jewelry firm, Fred Leighton. The firm often loans jewels to clients for public appearances and the peridot parure was no exception, with comedian and television personality (and Queen) Joan Rivers famously borrowing the suite’s necklace and earrings for the 2004 Golden Globes Awards.

Joan Rivers wearing the Habsburg necklace and earrings to the 2004 Golden Globe Awards. Image FASHIONISTA.COM

Although the whereabouts of the necklace and tiara are not publicly known today, Brazilian philanthropist Lily Safra purchased at least a part of the parure at some point after 2001, since the suite’s earrings and brooch were among a selection of her jewels placed up for auction in May 2012. Sold by Christie’s in Geneva to an anonymous buyer, the two pieces fetched more than $170,000 for charity.

Catalogue photos of the Habsburg earrings and corsage ornament from their 2012 sale. Image CHRISTIE’S AUCTION HOUSE

I adore green gemstones, and I’ve always has a soft spot for peridots. Although I prefer stones with a brighter colour than those used in this suite, I’ve always been fond of the Habsburg parure since these particular peridots are of such fine quality, colour, and size. In the past, the stones have actually been mistaken for emeralds due to their deep colour, especially since they greatly resemble those in Empress Marie Louise of France’s famous emerald and diamond parure.

Promotional photographs taken prior to Sotheby’s 2001 sale showing the Parure’s necklace and earrings and the tiara worn without it’s frame as a belt (although why anyone would wear it like this…) (top left), and a Sotheby’s employee wearing the full suite in the traditional way (top right and bottom). Image SOTHEBYS.COM/TOPFOTO

It’s always rare for royal ladies to use coloured gemstones (especially semiprecious ones) in their jewelry and it really is a pity that the suite has been split up, with the whereabouts of it’s two most famous pieces are generally unknown. To me, this is one of the loveliest and unusual suites of royal jewelry ever made. I hope that this parure is reunited in full someday soon, and that it’s owner actually wears the jewels. They’re too beautiful to be locked away!

Xx- Ana

Fashion meets Mas- RIDDIM, The Lost Tribe 2017

The Lost Tribe 2017’s name and logo
Image- losttribecarnival.com[/caption]

During a phone call with Val sometime late last year, I was lucky enough to get a rundown of his ideas for a new addition to the mas of Trinidad and Tobago’s carnival. It was to be a fusion of old and new, a mix of fashion and the giant parade that T&T mas is- it was to be something new and exciting! Fast forward a few months to February 2016, and The Lost Tribe hit the road for two days of spectacle and even- unheard of for a new band, 2nd Place winner of the Band of the Year and Downtown Bands Association Award! With creative director Valmicki Maharaj and his team at the helm, I knew the costumes and band would be the hit that they are, and I’ve been eagerly waiting for the reveal of the 2017 designs.

Boy, were they worth the wait!

Areito female.
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Dudup female
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Colourful, bright and with references to a worldwide spectrum of ethnic inspirations, the costumes fill a spot somewhere between sexy and artsy-tribal. I really like all the details that become apparent the more you look at the costumes- the shell necklace in ‘Djun’, the black and white geometric bodysuit in ‘Dudup’, the painted additions in the ‘Arieto’ male backpack. Great!

Djun female
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Arieto male
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Huge props to the band for finally having a great lineup of male costumes! Every year, I always look for something more than a pair of board shorts to play in and usually end up finding just one or two okay-ish options. Not so with the Lost Tribe. Every male costume is well designed, attractive and mostly easy to wear (I still feel some of those backpacks might work against you on a windy stage). My favourites are ‘Arieto’ and ‘Jab’.

Jab male
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Djun male
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Finally, the campaign- I am here for it! A friend said it’s like the team got high while playing around with a kaleidoscope, and printed fabric of what they saw. I have to agree. With ethnic patterns done in pop art colours, the backdrops to each image work well to display and enhance the costumes on show. Add all that to some damn fine models who know how to do it and you’ve got a great campaign. I mean… look at all that-

Iron female
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Dudup male
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Bamboo female
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Cutta female
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Jab female
Image- losttribecarnival.com

Bamboo male
Image- losttribecarnival.com

To the Lost Tribe team- all the props, you guys did great work! For full info on the band and more costume images, check out The Lost Tribe’s site.

My best,

Estevan

Friday Fierceness!

“Driving Miss Odette”- Vogue Japan September 2016

Trousers: Chloé, Sunglasses: Dior, Jewelry: Buccelatti. Image VOGUE JAPAN/LUIGI + IANGO

Model: Odette Pavlova
Photographer: Luigi & Iango
Stylist: Anna Dello Russo
Hair: Luigi Murenu
Makeup: Georgi Sandev

Friday Fierceness!

“In a Fairy Tale”- Harper’s Bazaar Russia August 2016

Gown: Gucci. Image HARPER’S BAZAAR RUSSIA/RACHELL SMITH

Model: Karen Elson
Photographer: Rachell Smith
Stylist: Anna Katsanis
Hair: Keith Carpenter
Makeup: Niki M’nray

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

Fall 2016 brought out a softer, simpler side of Stéphane Rolland’s dramatic aesthetic, with the designer taking a more pared down approach to his Haute Couture collection. Premiered at an intimate presentation in his Paris atelier, the designer showed his gorgeous 16- piece collection of sensational red carpet gowns.

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

Inspired by the work of Spanish painter Pablo Palazuelo, Mr. Rolland continued his exploration of movement and form with variations of angular and cubic shapes. “I think unconsciously I have always been inspired by the pure, graphic nature of his paintings,” Mr. Rolland remarked. And truly, his collection mirrored this graphic quality, with sculptural gowns in monochromatic block colors being manipulated into dramatic shapes with the help of jagged cutout ‘windows’ that exposed large expanses of the bust, leg and hip.

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

Daring and sexy, these details added provocative flair to column gowns and shift dresses, but were especially intriguing when paired with full bubble- skirted silhouettes à la Grace Kelly, to create a modern twist on the classic ballgown. It was stunning, especially when used on color- blocked gowns of black and nude taffeta, organza and tulle with soft, duvet- like skirts. These were the epitome of elegance.

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

A series of sculptural black and white gowns provided dramatic contrast with modern silhouettes that referenced nature and raw sexuality. “This is the yin and the yang,” Mr. Rolland explained, and the gowns reflected this. Each was centered around rigid black sheafs with undulating white accents and large body- baring cutouts. One featured ruffles that enveloped the torso like the petals of an orchid, another had panels that draped down the right flank like huge folded wings, the third, a bi-colored gown with a cape effect back was cleaved straight down the front and bared an angular line of almost naked flesh from breast to ankle. This was the most spectacular (and my favorite) of the three and makes me wonder exactly I’d wear it without an unfortunate wardrobe malfunction- but I’m willing to try!

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

Elsewhere in the lineup Mr. Rolland showed his softer side with gauzy gowns in draped chiffon, and cocktail dresses in nude silk duchesse. Fur was also used to tremendous effect, with Mr. Rolland taking the opportunity to showcase a few pieces from his new 15- piece “haute fur” capsule collection alongside his gowns. A white mink windowpane vest was great, as was a suede kilt skirt with a knitted mink panel at the front and two outsized knitted mink capes that left everyone wondering at their complex constructions.

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

Done in a graphic openwork style each knitted module was mounted on a sturdy grid of leather or silk, allowing the movement and fall of the pieces to remain light and flexible while still retaining solid strength. These pieces were fresh, modern and pure luxury, and offered a new way to approach the look and design of traditional fur coats and capes.

Mr. Rolland said that a fur interior design line is in the works, and judging from the work seen in this collection it’s bound to be great.

Stéphane Rolland Haute Couture Fall 2016. Image STÉPHANE ROLLAND

Stéphane Rolland’s Fall 2016 Haute Couture collection was absolutely gorgeous. Presented without the fuss or fanfare of many other houses, it was one of the best shows in the Fall Couture schedule. His work was fresh, modern and dramatically beautiful. It was pure luxury and one of my favorite shows of this season.

Xx – Ana